ok i got a realy good deal on a 93 f150 with a perfect body. i also have an 88 bronco with a swiss cheese body. the f150 is 2wd, and automatic tanny. the tcase on the bronco is a bw 1356. im not sure of the exact model of tranny in the f150 yet, i havnt taken delivery. but im guessin the swap will be easy? all im thinkin i should need as of now is a new rear driveshaft correct? all the 4x4 stuff in the bronco is manual. also i like a tach, how hard is it to hook up a tach? o and both trucks have 5.0's. the bronco is an AOD

thanks aheada time

 

Lets see: On the 93 F-150

1. Install the Bronco TTB. Use the F-150 parts. Brake calipers are the same, shocks are the same. The Bronco springs will raise it 2". Check the brake soft lines - they may be the same length.

2. Raise the rear end 2", with blocks on your 4x2 springs, or by swapping all the Bronco rear spring hangars and springs. They are 1/2" wider. Blocks are much easier if you're sticking with a stock 4x4 2" lift. Replace the rear brake soft line, it is a little longer for the 4wd version.

3. The transmissions are different. Your F-150 likely has an AOD-E, and the Bronco has an AOD. You could use the older AOD, and swap your column shifter to the older style without the overdrive button. Use the Bronco trans crossmember and drop brackets. The BW 1356 is correct for the 93 F-150.

4. You will likely need a custom rear driveshaft with a sliding section, because the Bronco BW 1356 has a fixed yoke. Your 2wd truck driveshaft has a slip joint. The front driveshaft might work if you're lucky.

5. The transfer case shifter from the Bronco should bolt right in, the knockout plates are there in the floor of your F-150.

6. The tach is the easiest swap of all - just find a 92-95 F-150 tach instrument cluster in the salvage yard. You must disassemble your cluster to remove and re-use the speedometer module, the donor can be manual or automatic. Disassemble the donor and remove it's speedometer module, and set yours in its place. You must remove all the other gauges to do this. Take the lens off, and pull them straight up out of the back housing. If your donor is manual, remove the blanking plate and bolt in your auto gear indicator. With your speedometer in the donor cluster, replace the lens and reinstall. 1996 looks the same but is not suitable.

 

thank you much that was very helpful. but a custom driveshaft? cant i just a a drive shaft out of a 4x4 f150 with the 1356?

 

No you can't, because:

 

yes but from what ur sayin a 4x4 f150 has a slip yok also?

 

Yes it does. But you're swapping in a t-case with a fixed yoke.

 

Depends on what kind of F150 he's getting. If it has a center bearing, then it will have a fixed yoke (the slider is in the shaft before the bearing). The supercabs used the center bearing I believe owing to their longer WB. The regular cabs use a 1-piece shaft with a slip yoke in the trans.

That's how my 2 91s are setup anyway. One is an SC SWB, one is a RC LWB.

 

Take a look under there again - I have a supercab shortbed and there is a carrier bearing, but it has a slip yoke on the tranny.

 

Well, hell, you are right, andym. I guess I now have too many trucks. I've got 3 1991's at my house (2 F150s and a Bronco) and I am getting their stuff mixed up.

 

You'll just need to do what I did - I took the rear portion of my two piece driveshaft, and had it re-tubed so it would be long enough to go between the two yokes, thus becoming a one piece driveshaft with a sliding section. I used an older t-case with a fixed yoke, and ran into the same issue you will. If you have a two piece driveshaft, the rear portion will be an excellent donor because it has the sliding section. Be sure to measure u-joint center to center after you get the t-case bolted in. And measure with the truck sitting level, and on it's springs. If it's jacked up, the driveshaft fitters won't get the length correct, with disasterous results!

Oddly enough, my plain jane '96 single cab longbed had a two piece driveshaft - my '95 single cab longbed has the one piece. Go figure?

 

hm. yea im lfting the truck at the same time when i do the swap. so it should work out for the best. course i looked under the truck and after the tcase is in the drive shaft wont need to be much longer. mayb a foot at the most, mayb more with the lift. i wish the stock would work tho, its a pretty beefy looking aluminum one. its to bad the e4od wont work tho, id have it rebuilt. ill just have to stick with the older aod. how much did it cost u to get the shaft to fit?

 

Oops - I goofed on the use of the original shaft. The short FIRST section has the sliding joint. The length doesn't matter because they'll have to cut the old tube out anyway. I added pictures in my gallery to clarify. The modification cost me $191, but I told them to install new u-joints. For that, I got a balanced shaft, painted and ready to bolt in.