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Hi guys, great site! I've been lurking in the shadows for a while and thought it was time to introduce myself and ask a few questions.
I have a 1949 F-1. I'm in the process of swaping in a 302 with a C6. At the same time i am going to change to toyota power steering. Here's the problem. I would really like to add a 3" or 4" drop axle. I already have every other leaf spring removed and the drag link is already pointing slightly upwards. If I change to a drop axle i'm afraid the drag link angle would too extreme. I thought about fabricating a shorter pitman arm, but i might loose too much steering. I also thought about trying to mount the steering box above the frame and using a stock length pitaman arm. I'm not sure i'll have the clearence for this. Has anybody tried this? Is there any other options that i haven't thought of, or am i just trying to get too low for 60 year old technology.
I think I would opt for a shorter pitman arm to start. Or maybe bending the steering arm down a bit.
I am using the Toyota ps in my 49 but I mounted mine a little unconditionally. I mounted my steering box up in front of the axle. I ended up making my own pitman arm and drag link. I modified the stock steering arm slightly also. Nothing more than pressing the Ford ball stud out of it and replacing it with the Toyota ball stud.
I'm sure someone on here has dealt with a dropped axle on a Bonus Built truck and will be able to give you a definate answer.
Christopher2, i live about 60 miles south of you in St.Peter.
bobbytnm, if I use a shorter pitman arm do you think i would loose too much steering? Have you heard of anybody else doing this? I've searched this forum and the galleries and haven't been able to find anyone who has used a drop axle with in a F-1.
I can't remember who might have a dropped axle. It might even be a 53 -56 truck but the theory should be the same. I do not know how drastic a change shortening the pitman arm will make.
A small upward angle on the draglink isn't a major problem unless the pivot housing starts to contact the ballstud or arm. The usual solution is to bend the arm on the spindle down but you must make 2 bends so the ballstud remains vertical thru it's full arc. Another possible solution would be to mount the ballstud on the bottom of the steering arm. That would require cutting the draglink and rotating the end 180*. A third solution would be to Z bend the draglink. Bending the steering arm or the draglink will shorten the overall length so the effect of that will also need to be taken into consideration or compensated for. I think Mid Fifty sells a dropped steering arm for the F100 that hasn't been shortened and has the correct geometry, don't know if it would work on the F1 or if someone is offering one specifically for the F1. I have seen where the spindle end of the draglink was cut off and the threaded end off a tierod welded on so a tierod end could be used from the bottom of the steering arm. To use a tierod end the steering arm hole would need to be reamed to the proper taper. The downside of that is the ballsocket end on the draglink is spring loaded to cushion hard hits to the front tire to not transfer the shock to the steering box, but that's less of a problem with the Toy box design.
Where there's a will there's a way, just be sure to check that there is clearance thru the full range of travel to prevent binding or locking up.
Thanks AX! I'm going to go ahead and order the drop axle. Once it's installed i'll find a way to make the steering work. With all of the options you gave i don't think i'll have any problems.
Remember: your life and that of others depends on a safe sound steering system! any time you modify any steering component, be absolutely sure to have the part magnafluxed before taking it on the road. Reinforce any welds with mechanical backups and have the welding done by a certified welder. This is not the place to try to save a few bucks!!!!
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