POR rust paint
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POR rust paint
Bought a 1990 Bronco 1 year ago (it's my 3rd Bronco and also oldest), looked great, good lines (no body damage or bondo), solid frame, etc. I asked the dealer where he got it painted as I want to change the paint job but keep the grey/silver color for the most part. He won't tell me, not that it matters, I just wanted to match the color. Not a big deal.
The problem is this: there are blisters showing up under the paint, mostly on the rocker panels but also at the bottom of the tailgate. We have had an extremely dry summer up here and I can't imagine why rust has started under the new paint. I have read all the excellent info regarding the tailgate drainage and such, my question is regarding POR (Paint Over Rust) paint. I have seen it used on the various TV programs (Trucks! etc) and it looks too easy.
Anybody familiar with this stuff? Any secrets? Can I get it in Canada? And can I get colors that match? Do you have to sand to bare metal prior to applying? I am not a body-man by any stretch but would appreciate any help/info.
I'd like to touch it up before the autumn rains, any advice?
The problem is this: there are blisters showing up under the paint, mostly on the rocker panels but also at the bottom of the tailgate. We have had an extremely dry summer up here and I can't imagine why rust has started under the new paint. I have read all the excellent info regarding the tailgate drainage and such, my question is regarding POR (Paint Over Rust) paint. I have seen it used on the various TV programs (Trucks! etc) and it looks too easy.
Anybody familiar with this stuff? Any secrets? Can I get it in Canada? And can I get colors that match? Do you have to sand to bare metal prior to applying? I am not a body-man by any stretch but would appreciate any help/info.
I'd like to touch it up before the autumn rains, any advice?
Last edited by re_fill; Sep 4, 2006 at 06:12 PM. Reason: forgot something
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Longview, TX
I used POR-15 a year ago on tailgate or so and so far---so good. However I am not in the rust belt. http://www.por15.com/See their web site.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Gateway to the West
The have a trunk and floor panel repair kit that I intend to use based on the praises sung by many in this region (midwest). The chemicals/paint as I understand it neutralize certain reactions that take place naturally and basically prevent the oxidation from continuing. I know of at least three early Bronco owners who have utilized the Blackcote product for the frames of their 66-77 vintage stallions with very good results even after some pretty hard wheeling.
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The stuff is great, a little goes a long way and it dries hard! It isn't meant to be topcoated however. They do make a sealer for it but I don't think it can be sanded, which would negate it's corrosion barrier anyway. I've used it inside of steel rims which were rusty and on the inside of panels to prevent the rust from attacking new bodywork from the inside. Covering rust with ordinary bondo and paint is always temporary. It'll reappear, just a matter of how long.
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Great Info, thanks..
...but when I get into this rust rehab, even with stuff (as mentioned by greystreak) that neutralizes oxidation, how far should I go with the sander? Do I have to paint from behind (like the "inside" of my tailgate) as well as the face (front) where the rust is bubbling under the paint? I love this truck better than my '95 and my '99 Expedition, but it seems to have a flesh eating disease that only sprung up a few months ago during a really dry summer (???????)
Thanks in advance, again
Thanks in advance, again
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Fuquay Varina,NC
I have to disagree with broncowy. POR 15 MUST be topcoated. When cured it is sandable, and will break down in UV rays (read: sunlight) so you must paint over it. POR is meant to paint onto rust and rough metal. It does not stick well to smooth metal or other surfaces, it likes porous surfaces. If youre going to paint it on new bare steel, rough it up well with good sandpaper. The stuff is expensive, but it works, and a little does go a long way, but PLEASE read ALL the directions and warnings well, it is nothing like a regular paint.
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From: Regina
Originally Posted by Bob Jusnes
I have to disagree with broncowy. POR 15 MUST be topcoated. When cured it is sandable, and will break down in UV rays (read: sunlight) so you must paint over it. POR is meant to paint onto rust and rough metal. It does not stick well to smooth metal or other surfaces, it likes porous surfaces. If youre going to paint it on new bare steel, rough it up well with good sandpaper. The stuff is expensive, but it works, and a little does go a long way, but PLEASE read ALL the directions and warnings well, it is nothing like a regular paint.
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To clarify: yes, the instructions say POR-15 must be topcoated if exposed to UV. But I don't think it's meant to be sanded and used as a primer under finish paint. I've used it inside panels (yes, inside the tailgate to slow down, not stop) the progression of the rust.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Used on frame, engine compartment, and cab floor pans. Only applied top coat to floor pans after sanding. Lot of prep work, found Por 15 'marine clean' works well removing grease and dirt, I used a pressure washer. Wire wheel as much surface rust as possible. Used a rust inhibitor, then rinsed before spraying couple coats of the Por paint. Truck painted approx. 4 yrs ago and seems to be holding up well. Strongly suggest purchasing small container of their solvent, as Ryan871x can attest, if it gets onto your skin for any length of time, have to wait until it wears off. Found the solvent only thing that would remove it. Also, if intend to paint, useful as reducer, and cleaning paint equip. Anyhow, truck is outside uncovered year round and except for few spots on frame, Por seems to be holding up well.
dave
dave
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