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It appears that the connecting rod bearings in my EFI 400 on cylinders 1, 2, 3, and 4 are wiped clean to the copper. The truck started running hot, then the oil pressure dropped while running. Later it was knocking at idle.
The motor has no more than 30,000 miles since rebuild. The strangest thing is that the rod bearings for cylinders 5, 6, 7, and 8 look much better. Considering that they share a crank journal with the bad bearings, it is a mystery.
I am wondering if the 5.0L hydraulic roller lifters are getting pushed too high in their bore due to the 0.350" lift in the cam lobe and the oil pressure at the rod drops at times during the cycle.
I am considering Tim Meyer's stroker, but the cash is a short term issue. A replacement crank is cheap and quick, but I really like the stroker with the steel crank, H beam rods, and forged pistons etc.
That sounds like there was a problem with the main caps; warped block/needs align boring, loose main cap bolts, mixed up caps. Were the bearings worn evenly? Another idea is that the cam bearings needed align boring.
Last edited by pcmenten; Sep 4, 2006 at 11:46 AM.
Reason: Add info
I haven't pulled the main caps yet. I will remove the crank next week. I hesitate to rebuild this block without a complete prep, or knowing why those bearings failed. So I am leaning toward a short block stroker from Tim Meyer.
Guess I dont have to tell you, Tim is good and gets it done. The 400 project I got off of him is doing great!
I had slow start with header issue (too close to the biger oil pan, hedman worked out better) and 3 week delay on getting the exhaust plumbed.
Oil pressure is steady and has not dropped. Engine runs steady and got the torque.
I had pretty much the same engine in before, with the aussie's and close to same cam. This engine does make a difference, old engine had typical oil pressure and never maintained the pressure of TMEYERS engine.
Would like to try the stroker someday, But I am very happy with the 400 from Tim.
Good luck and again ,,, I like your new site (engine comp. ratios) and feel it will help a lot of project builds! Keep up the nice site!
please...more info...this is a great thread to learn from...ie the big boys pushing limits etc. We learn far more from an engine going bad than one running for 200k.
So should the mains show more wear due to oil pressure issue at end plus knock or due to uneven pressure of rod bearings...and is that also the issue with why the cam bearings should show wear or would that also be a lift issue? Wondering how lift would cause one side of the motor to go game.
danlee....you did the oil restriction right? I'm getting ready to put my 400 together and am still wondering if the restriction is really necessary or worth it. My current 351 just bit it with an oil issue but had high pressure- haven't torn it down yet.
I'd really appreciate it if you guys would take the time to discuss why these things may be an issue for us that are further down in the learning curve.
it cetainly seems like a geometrical dilemma with one side going bad like that- uneven forces somehow.....
danlee....you did the oil restriction right? I'm getting ready to put my 400 together and am still wondering if the restriction is really necessary or worth it. My current 351 just bit it with an oil issue but had high pressure- haven't torn it down yet.
it cetainly seems like a geometrical dilemma with one side going bad like that- uneven forces somehow.....
My motor did not have any oil restriction installed. It is factory oiling.
The motor had been balanced, but I think the problem was caused by pulsing oil pressure, due to high cam lift and the lifters getting too high in the lifter bores. I will look at the mains soon.
Engine ran hot, perhaps hotter on one bank then the other? The rod bearings overloaded by that, perhaps running lean? Just a thought, any evidence in cylinders
on plugs?
Plugs are all even, brown in color. The engine never overheated, running at 200 degrees. Normal should be 180. Cooling system was adequate, if strained.
Pulled the rear main cap, it is wiped clean to copper. The heads will come off tomorrow. I know someone who will lend me a chain hoist, I'll pull the block when I get that.
Could be defective bearings too... I bought a matched set of Clevites and one rod bearing was the incorrect size (stamped correctly though). Just in normal hand rotation of the motor it wiped it to copper. Now I have one Sealed Power rod bearing and the rest are Clevites... the machine shop said it would be okay, they had the same weight so my balance won't be off.
I think if you are able to find a mfg. that tells you, the babbitt overlay is only .001 thick and there to help the bearings conform to the shaft. I frequently read concerns
on these forums about running on the copper alloy. I have an opinion abot that, it is
harder than babbitt so if any dirt does come thru the engine it may not imbed into the copper, being better for the crank journals. If the clearences are ok they would
continue to work, my 2 cents.
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