Hydro Locked
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Hydro Locked
Help I am hydro locked and I cant get up !
It rained heavily these past few days and I had water fall into the intake and when I started it I found out it cant spin water.
Is there some simple solution to this or do I have to tare down the top end ?
When I tried to turn the motor backwards it only unscrews the nut.
If I was to remove the injectors, would it be possible to crank the motor ?
I am at a loss. Literally.
It rained heavily these past few days and I had water fall into the intake and when I started it I found out it cant spin water.
Is there some simple solution to this or do I have to tare down the top end ?
When I tried to turn the motor backwards it only unscrews the nut.
If I was to remove the injectors, would it be possible to crank the motor ?
I am at a loss. Literally.
Last edited by rebelbrowser; Sep 3, 2006 at 01:19 PM.
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I just read another poor souls hydro lock thread...
I will try the GP removal trick. Am I to belive that the GP holes work like a spark plug hole in a gasser and will blow the water out of that cylinder ?
If so, cool consider it done.
I will write back after I have tried it.
I will try the GP removal trick. Am I to belive that the GP holes work like a spark plug hole in a gasser and will blow the water out of that cylinder ?
If so, cool consider it done.
I will write back after I have tried it.
Last edited by rebelbrowser; Sep 3, 2006 at 12:43 PM.
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Just a strange thought...
WD-40 is a water displacer, hence the "WD". Could you blow some in the GP holes, move the water then "safely" burn the wd-40 during start?
Perhaps I'm talking out of the wrong hole, but worth a thought anyway.
Mark.
WD-40 is a water displacer, hence the "WD". Could you blow some in the GP holes, move the water then "safely" burn the wd-40 during start?
Perhaps I'm talking out of the wrong hole, but worth a thought anyway.
Mark.
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well, so far I have removed the GP's and some injectors, and there doesnt seem to be any changes made to it. Its my assumption that a GPs and injectors are above the valves hence the I am screwed theory. WD would be a good agent to burn as it probly compresses as WATER does not. But its stuck solid against the forces of water.
I am waiting for someone to say the same thing. "you have to remove the heads to fix it" they'd say. But thanks for posting...
I am waiting for someone to say the same thing. "you have to remove the heads to fix it" they'd say. But thanks for posting...
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
I can tell you from experience, removing the glow plugs will let the water blow out the glow plug holes.
The precup is connected to the cylinder with a hole between the valves.
The water will blow out that hole.
You can also see which cylinder was hydrolocked by which hole the water blows out of.
Caution, wear saftey glasses if you are near the engine when it cranks over, the water will come out of the glow plug holes like a pressure washer spray.
Also you can just keep bumping the starter, the slow increase in the pressure will force the water down around the rings into the crankcase. I do not like to do this one because you do not need water in the oil.
Also if it sits long enough the water will drain down around the rings on it's own. If the water is no longer entering the cylinder, overnight should let the water drain down and it should start.
The precup is connected to the cylinder with a hole between the valves.
The water will blow out that hole.
You can also see which cylinder was hydrolocked by which hole the water blows out of.
Caution, wear saftey glasses if you are near the engine when it cranks over, the water will come out of the glow plug holes like a pressure washer spray.
Also you can just keep bumping the starter, the slow increase in the pressure will force the water down around the rings into the crankcase. I do not like to do this one because you do not need water in the oil.
Also if it sits long enough the water will drain down around the rings on it's own. If the water is no longer entering the cylinder, overnight should let the water drain down and it should start.
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I am starting to worry. It was a day ago, so it might be a bit early. However, I did remove all the GPs.
I too thought it would get down into the pan by leaking down through the rings. But then I thought, its a diesel, do the rings leak down ?
My wife even says it will fix itself. lol
I will go try it right now... ( I dont like doing this at all )
I too thought it would get down into the pan by leaking down through the rings. But then I thought, its a diesel, do the rings leak down ?
My wife even says it will fix itself. lol
I will go try it right now... ( I dont like doing this at all )
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IT WORKS, tomorrow I will tighten the injectors and put back the GPs.
I wasnt sure as it is dark out now, but it struggled past the first hiss, and then it kept spinning. Strange sound with NO compression.
Thank Guys....
Cya next time.
Hey, I need new fuel filler tubes, any ideas.
My tires were retreads and I didnt know this until they flew apart and damaged the wheel cover and fuel tubes. The fuel tubes were beat before this happened, but now are even worse.
I can live with the damaged wheel cover as new ones are 495 bucks... but the fuel tubes have got to be replaced...
thanks again.
I wasnt sure as it is dark out now, but it struggled past the first hiss, and then it kept spinning. Strange sound with NO compression.
Thank Guys....
Cya next time.
Hey, I need new fuel filler tubes, any ideas.
My tires were retreads and I didnt know this until they flew apart and damaged the wheel cover and fuel tubes. The fuel tubes were beat before this happened, but now are even worse.
I can live with the damaged wheel cover as new ones are 495 bucks... but the fuel tubes have got to be replaced...
thanks again.
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Post Fiend
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
I would say salvage yard.
I would probably break out the mig welder and get a piece of exhaust pipe and make my own filler tubes. Just cut the cap and flange off the old ones and weld it onto the pipe. Then I could use those big truck nozzles without having to hold the nozzle.
I would probably break out the mig welder and get a piece of exhaust pipe and make my own filler tubes. Just cut the cap and flange off the old ones and weld it onto the pipe. Then I could use those big truck nozzles without having to hold the nozzle.
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Will that cause a nozzel to stop pumping from all the bubbles ?
I cant get fuel into it because it doesnt seem to vent properly...it burps.
I will look into doing it your way... Whats under there now looks like rubber hose and its not looking too good. Would you be bending this pipe ? How would I get the right bend ? I got to drop the tank(s) dont I...
I cant get fuel into it because it doesnt seem to vent properly...it burps.
I will look into doing it your way... Whats under there now looks like rubber hose and its not looking too good. Would you be bending this pipe ? How would I get the right bend ? I got to drop the tank(s) dont I...
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I cracked each line and I heard the engine drop.
Now what ?
It runs like a cylinder is down or like a gas engine that needs a tune up.
And it smokes blue like crazy. I cant drive it like this.
Oh, and when I look down its throat, I see the same blue smoke.
Does this mean the valves are stickin ?
Now what ?
It runs like a cylinder is down or like a gas engine that needs a tune up.
And it smokes blue like crazy. I cant drive it like this.
Oh, and when I look down its throat, I see the same blue smoke.
Does this mean the valves are stickin ?
Last edited by rebelbrowser; Sep 10, 2006 at 11:48 AM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Sorry I missed your other post. The rubber fuel filler lines, if that is all that is damaged, would have to come from Ford. They are bent to some angles so they miss everything. I thought you damaged the metal filler neck which is only about 6" long.
For your smoke problem.
Service the CDR.
Sounds like you are getting to much oil vapor into the intake.
For your smoke problem.
Service the CDR.
Sounds like you are getting to much oil vapor into the intake.
Last edited by Dave Sponaugle; Sep 10, 2006 at 12:33 PM.
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Sorry, What and where is a CDR, and how do I service it.
When you say "Sounds like you are getting to much oil vapor into the intake"
are you sure my injectors arent the culpret or the valves for that matter.
I was talking about taking then to someone to get them tested, but I said I'd be embarassed because they look like they are from the titantic.
I cant vouch for them, but I think they are original and that my truck may just have 200+ thousand miles.
Now I dont want to have to spend the kind of money it really needs, getting a new IP and Injectors, but I am sceptical about too much oil vapor getting into the intake.
So dont get me wrong, I want you to be right !
Can you elaborate on what you want me to do ?
If it helps, keep in mind this problem wasnt so bad before it hydro locked on me.
Thanks for posting...
When you say "Sounds like you are getting to much oil vapor into the intake"
are you sure my injectors arent the culpret or the valves for that matter.
I was talking about taking then to someone to get them tested, but I said I'd be embarassed because they look like they are from the titantic.
I cant vouch for them, but I think they are original and that my truck may just have 200+ thousand miles.
Now I dont want to have to spend the kind of money it really needs, getting a new IP and Injectors, but I am sceptical about too much oil vapor getting into the intake.
So dont get me wrong, I want you to be right !
Can you elaborate on what you want me to do ?
If it helps, keep in mind this problem wasnt so bad before it hydro locked on me.
Thanks for posting...
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From: Mackinaw, IL
Your CDR is on your intake under the backside of your air cleaner. It should be a cansiter type piece with a couple of bolts holding it down...
I also found this on another thread... Hopefully it will help you out.....
I also found this on another thread... Hopefully it will help you out.....
Originally Posted by PLC7.3
Do you know when to service your CDR valve?
All 6.9L and 7.3L diesel engines are equipped with a CDR (Crankcase Depression Regulator) valve. Even the new 7.3L Power Stroke is also equipped with the same valve. The CDR valve is one of the leading causes of head gasket failure in these engines. The CDR valve is responsible for controlling the pressure/vacuum in the engine crankcase, and seperating the oil mist from the air and returning the oil to the crankcase. The CDR valve should be serviced every second oil change or when signs listed below are seen.
When the CDR valve is not properly serviced, engine oil enters the air intake and is drawn into the engine. The diesel engine will burn this oil as fuel, however, it is heavier and thicker than diesel fuel and, having greater BTU output, causes excessive heat in the cylinder. Due to the intake manifold design, most of the oil will migrate to #7 and #8 cylinders; the last two cylinders in the rear by the firewall. The increased temperature here will cause the cylinder head to lift off the gasket and allow water or oil to leak out the back of the cylinder head where it meets the block.
To check your CDR valve, remove the air cleaner hold down bolt and inspect it. If the bolt is covered with engine oil mist, it's time to service your CDR valve! Ford calls this item a "Adapter assembly for Crankcase Ventilation" Part number E3TZ-6A665-A or IH part #1805319C1
To service the CDR wash with a solvent, allow to dry, do not use compressed air to dry. There is a small hole in the CDR back cover, ensure it is clean and open. If black chunks of rubber are visible in the intake, on the screen then the rubber membrane has disintegrated, replace the CDR.
All 6.9L and 7.3L diesel engines are equipped with a CDR (Crankcase Depression Regulator) valve. Even the new 7.3L Power Stroke is also equipped with the same valve. The CDR valve is one of the leading causes of head gasket failure in these engines. The CDR valve is responsible for controlling the pressure/vacuum in the engine crankcase, and seperating the oil mist from the air and returning the oil to the crankcase. The CDR valve should be serviced every second oil change or when signs listed below are seen.
When the CDR valve is not properly serviced, engine oil enters the air intake and is drawn into the engine. The diesel engine will burn this oil as fuel, however, it is heavier and thicker than diesel fuel and, having greater BTU output, causes excessive heat in the cylinder. Due to the intake manifold design, most of the oil will migrate to #7 and #8 cylinders; the last two cylinders in the rear by the firewall. The increased temperature here will cause the cylinder head to lift off the gasket and allow water or oil to leak out the back of the cylinder head where it meets the block.
To check your CDR valve, remove the air cleaner hold down bolt and inspect it. If the bolt is covered with engine oil mist, it's time to service your CDR valve! Ford calls this item a "Adapter assembly for Crankcase Ventilation" Part number E3TZ-6A665-A or IH part #1805319C1
To service the CDR wash with a solvent, allow to dry, do not use compressed air to dry. There is a small hole in the CDR back cover, ensure it is clean and open. If black chunks of rubber are visible in the intake, on the screen then the rubber membrane has disintegrated, replace the CDR.
Last edited by bigblu78; Sep 10, 2006 at 08:38 PM.
