I'll check it out, but I am sceptical it is why I have all this blue smoke.

I got to go to work this morning so I will write back after that.

Thanks for the info.

 

I pulled the CDR and started the engine. The smoke is billowing out from the up tube behind the intake. Why ?
I cant say wether the CDR needs replacing as I have nothing to go on, but I can say it looks very much covered in soot.
What do you want me to do next ? Clean it and put it back in or buy a new one. In either case, will that CDR keep the smoke out from the intake ?
Is that smoke always been there and I didnt notice it. What is the deal.
Or is there somthing wrong. ie blow by, rings are shot.

 

Hello!

In this case I think you have a "Blow by", that means, the piston rings are bad, and your machins burns oil...

Blue smoke is a signal for burning oil.
A compessiontest will bring more information.

Josh

 

agreed. I cleaned the CDR and stuck my mouth on it and I can blow straight through it.
I thought it should hold some pressure, so I am off to buy a new one.

As for the blow buy. I am working on a theory that the hydro clock may have caused the rings to stick to the pistons, because after a few long runs, say 10 minutes or more of highway.... I think the smoke actually disappears.

I will try to get a compression check going. Do I need a fitting that will fit the GP holes ?

 

The CDR comes into effect as the intake vacuum increases, until then it is always open.

Yes you need a fitting for the GP hole and a high pressure compression tester.....800-1000psi......... I use a Hastings Kit #1845

Also do check the info and warnings on GP removal here........

http://www.members.shaw.ca/k2pilot/

This is what I recommend as a proceedure for GP R&R....remove air cleaner if IDI.
To remove/replace gp's get a 3/8" 6 point deep socket and suitable ratchet, 8" piece of gasline hose that will fit on top of gp. Remove gp electrical caps blow or brush clean each area around gp's, lossen gp with socket until it turns freely remove socket and push hose on top, turn out gp. For the one under the injector lines on drivers side you can use a universal joint (hard) or a 3/8 box end wrench then the hose as usual (do not force or bend lines) Test GP's and check tips.
If you have it put (small amount) anti sieze on threads of new gp, you can use hose to start plugs then finish with ratchet to 12 ft/lbs or 1/12th of a turn after bottoming( this is not much torque at all)
If I were you, I would remove all gp's to see what kind they are, if they are not "BERU/Motorcraft" pitch them and buy all 8 new, if they are Beru and test good re install. If some are bad get 8 new and save old ones that are good for backups.
NOTE***If any GP's are hard to remove from hole using the hose ...."STOP" call for assistance and wait for instructions.... DO NOT force the GP to turn out as tips can break off..
PS A big old blanket over the rad helps in laying on the engine.

 

As for the rest of you post... I have already been there and donit.
I have the Beru going and have broke a few...
Not only that , I have removed /replaced them alot over the recent year(s)..
My friend says we have more hours under the hood of it then driving it.

He also thought I should take a quart of oil out.

I am gonna have a hard time getting a diesel compression check gadget, because none of my friends has one, and I am broke...

What PSI should this engine of mine have ?

 

Is there any additives for the purpose of cleaning the cylinders and or injectors ?
Could it just be that the rings are sticking ? The blue smoke goes away after it warms up.
Oil add. or fuel add. ?