I just put a 351W/C-6 out of a 1984 F250 With only 19,000 actual miles on it in my 63 F100,shortbed 2 wheel drive.
My question is, I removed the old 292/3 on the tree and now I need a driveshaft that is about 11" shorter. Has anyone else tried this combo, will a driveshaft out of a 70's model with a short wheelbase come close? I also converted this new combo to a Duraspark 2 electronic ignition and to a Ford alternator system. It runs great, but it is not too fast without a driveshaft.
Thanks,
Jimmy

 

Jimmy, Can you grab the 1 piece from the donor. I went from a 2 piece to 1 and had the length changed at a driveshaft shop.
Or you can have yours cut at one of those shops, usually listed in your yellow pages. :-)
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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

go to a junkyard armed with a tape measure and look for a driveshaft that will work. Rare chance you will find one. Otherwise you will probably have to have one shortened by a driveshaft shop. I am running a 302/AOD in my 63 shortbed and the aluminum driveshaft from a Ford Aorestar bolted in after putting in new u-joints.

 

Do what truckfarmer says go to a wrecking yard with a tape measure and start hunting. I have a 61 LB uni with a 302/4spd got a driveshaft out of an early 70s wagon. I did end up moving the engine and tranny back to make it work, but thats OK I had room and time. When your on a budget you'll work alot harder to save a couple dollars. Happy hunting, Rich

 

Thanks to all. I went to a junk yard today and found one the right length in about 5 min. how lucky can a guy get. It was a rear shaft out of a 2 piece unit. I changed the yoke to a 77 F150 C6 that I have extra laying around and went to AutoZone and looked through there u-joint cat. and found the adapter joints that I needed and it fits like a glove. I actually got to drive it around the block tonight. What A thrill. This was my first attempt at converting a gen. to an alt. and transplanting a Ford Duraspark(with external control module) into an older vehicle and it all worked the first time!!
Thanks again for the quick responces,
Jimmy:7

 

congratulations! You made the right choices with the Duraspark and the alternator. Write down what parts you have put in it and keep them in the glovebox in case of a breakdown. Makes it easier to explain the pimply face kid looking at the computer at the parts store.

 

Very true. 84 motor and trans,starter= 79 T-Bird ($20 cheaper than the one for the 84 and it works fine), Homemade tranny crossmember. This is a budget, hope to be, streetrod one day. Nothing too fancy, just a dependable, drive it to rod runs on Sundays kinda vehicle. It has hardly any body rust. Just a couple of small holes the size of a #2 pencil in the bed sides. The front of the bed bottom is rusted where it meets up with the front wall. Does anyone make a bedliner for these? It is a 63 Styleside shortbed? A couple of supports off of the frame to body have some rust, but they are available from LMC Truck Parts.
I drove it again tonight. It really runs good. Now that I have the drivetrain lined out, I guess I will start on the interior. Right now it has a seat out of around a 67 Galaxie, it doesn't give me alot of legroom and I always hit my knee on the steering col. getting in and out. I have thought about trying to find an original seat and I have also thought about putting a set of 87/88 Turbo Coupe T-bird seats in it. I just don't know if I want to wire all of the power stuff up. I may just get some 87-93 Mustang GT seats ( all they have is power lumbar).
Jimmy

 

Hey Jimmy, how about some pictures of how you mounted your 351 in the truck. I'm about to install mine but want to see several possible configurations before I weld anything in.you can get my email addy from my homepage below.

Krosati
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Ok, I'll try to send a couple tomorrow (Thurs.) Jimmy

 

What a bummer, I got the truck running good. I drove it around for about 1/2 hour last night. When I came by during lunch to show it to my buddy, it ran for about 15 min then the old original radiator tossed its wheaties all over my driveway. I've been pricing new ones and they are $250 and up so far. I am going to check into possibly getting it recored. The tanks are ok as far as I can tell, but the cores are so brittle, a small bug at hwy speeds would probably rupture them.
Jimmy :-(

 

You should keep shopping. There are radiators ( new ones ) for less than $250. I had mine re-cored & the tank seams redone at a local shop for $165. But I had to take it out, dleiver it, pick it up & reinstall myself. You can save a lot of $ by doing some of the "busy work" labor.
Also, check the catalog from Mac's Auto Parts. They sell new radiators.

 

Sorry all, I've been busy with the upcoming holidays and all. I took my radiator to my local radiator shop. It turns out that my radiator was homemade. It had a 65 fairlane center in the 63 bracket. He just happened to have the original 63 part# tanks(they were used) and recored it to 63 specks with a new core all for $150.00!! I have drove it a few times. I need to find a right front wheel cyl. It is appearently siezed up. it will bleed fluid but it isn't pushing the shoes out. I got some rust out of it when I first bled it so I figure it is pitted. So instead of taking any chances, I am just going to replace it. This old beast purrs like a kitten. It runs smoothe and I haven't felt any vibrations while driving it yet. Is there a shorter steering column that will fit this 63? This thing is way out from the dash and I bust my knee on it everytime I get in or out. Is it possible to shorten the bracket under the dash to raise it up some? Iam also thinking of changing seats. Either a later model truck or I have access to a pair of 89 LX Mustang seats.I'm not sure if I want to go with buckets. The seat in it now is out of a 67 Galaxie I think. The thick rear section may be causing me some trouble too. I found a seat in a 66 that will need to be recovered for $25. I may just get it and chamge it from red to blue.
Jimmy

 

My '62 had buckets when I bought it and I had the same "knee-knocking" problem... I found an orignal bench (for 100$) and it fits and drives sooo much better... I guess I just prefer the way Ford did it to begin with...


Tyson

 

Editted for space by Krosati

>I have drove it a few times. I need to find a right front wheel cyl.
>It is appearently siezed up. it will bleed fluid but it isn't
>pushing the shoes out. I got some rust out of it when I
>first bled it so I figure it is pitted. So instead of taking
>any chances, I am just going to replace it. >
Jimmy

Jimmy,
Your wheel cylinder may not be in need of replacing. Remove the cylinder and disassemble it. If the rust isn't too bad, you can clean it up with a brake hone and your drill. A set of new seals will only run you about $8. I always rehone my cylinders myself before reorting to replacement units. (I haven't done this job yet on my Ford but both of my Bonnevilles and my Cutlass were done for less than $20.00 each.)

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I will probably by the seat from the junk yard for $25. Does anyone know where I may find the correct tailgate? I have seen them for stepsides and unibodys, but I have a styleside and the one I have was a stepside with extra pieces added to make it fit. It doesn't look that bad, but I would rather have the correct one.