Sheetmetal work
Last edited by litefoot; Sep 2, 2006 at 01:31 PM.

Some questions for you:
1) Where in California are you located? Maybe one or more of us are close enough to help.
2) How much money have you got? Body work in very pricey, even if it isn't any good...and the good guys are VERY pricey!
If you are on a severe budget as I am, you will get much better bang for your buck (literally) by learning to do it yourself. That may seem a daunting possibility, but many of us have done so and with little or no space or equipment. You'd be surprised at how easy it is, once you get going and you'll get lots of help for that here. I learned from helping others, asking questions and from TV shows and video tapes.
Start your gallery and put some digital photos in it of the areas in question. Maybe a replacement isn't required? Maybe it can be patched? We can tell you more if we can see some pics. You can start a gallery by going to the "User CP" button on the blue bar at the top of the forum page. Pick "Edit Gallery" and follow the instructions.
Again, welcome....and good luck
Last edited by Randy Jack; Sep 2, 2006 at 02:00 PM.
Here's a recent thread that talked about different welders:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...?highlight=MIG

Seriously, the most rewarding thing I have done on my truck is sheet metal and body work. And, I had NO experience with either before.
Last edited by Randy Jack; Sep 3, 2006 at 09:59 AM.
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So many start off by buying a "basket case" vehicle because of it's low price, figuring they have a lot of room in the budget for working on it that way. They don't consider their own abilities, time, or have a realistic concept of the costs of hiring others to do work for them they can't or don't want to do themselves.
Bodywork is extemely labor intensive to do properly, and if not done properly can turn a pig into a pig with an expensive new coat. It's always more cost effective to buy a starter with the best body and sheetmetal you can find. Yes, the price is likely to be multi thousands of dollars more expensive than the basket case, but a quality body man's labor @ 50-150.00+ per hr can eat up $10K in a big hurry without looking like they did much!
My advice to you is to decide which route you want to take:
1.) Learn to do the work yourself. This is the less expensive and most rewarding route, but does require dedication to spending the time (and money on tools and materials) to first learn how and then to do the work needed. It also requires a suitable place to work that you can tie up for the YEARS you'll be working in it.
2.) Spend the majority of your time fixing the mechanicals and updating the chassis while looking for better condition sheetmetal to swap onto your now updated chassis.
Good sheetmetal should not be very difficult to find in TX but will require spending time chasing it down. Be VERY selective here so you don't end up with someone elses mistakes or another body that's only a little better but still needs a lot of work.
3.) If you can't/don't want to take either of those two routes and have deep enough pockets to afford to pay a quality bodyman to do extensive body repair, instead search out a completed (or nearly so) project by (preferably) a skilled homebuilder. To many in this hobby doing the work to bring a vehicle up to drivable condition is their favorite part. Once they complete the build they sell it to finance a new project. Other's lose interest after several years and thousands of dollars invested and will sell out cheap to get out from under it (or to stop the S/O nagging) after completing the most expensive part. An older restoration or survivor (barnfind, or what we use to call an Uncle Daniel) is an excellent starter, even if you plan to build a hot rod because you are sure that all the expensive little bits are there and in good useable condition, and it's always a lot nicer to work on a relatively clean sound vehicle than one that's mostly red dust and critter residue.
Whichever route you decide to take we will be glad to "hold your hand" along they way, just ask!
Vern











