Radius arm bushings...??????
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Hoboken, NJ...
Radius arm bushings...??????
Ok so its time again to put another new set of rad arm bushings on my daily driver. I am also changing the both brackets due to some rust, and the fact I have the two brackets from a previous project that they didn't get used on.
So here is my question. I need to know the correct sequence of the bushings. As you can see in this pic, I have (for each side) two Poly bushings, two washers...one cupped, one plastic spacer, and one new nut.
Now can someone please help me out with the right order of things? I dont want to mess anything up, and when I am done with the bushing replacement I am taking it in for a alignment.....so I need to have the bushings correct.
Thanks in advance!
So here is my question. I need to know the correct sequence of the bushings. As you can see in this pic, I have (for each side) two Poly bushings, two washers...one cupped, one plastic spacer, and one new nut.
Now can someone please help me out with the right order of things? I dont want to mess anything up, and when I am done with the bushing replacement I am taking it in for a alignment.....so I need to have the bushings correct.
Thanks in advance!
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,117
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From: Over Yonder, MN
Ok, it’s been years but I think this is the order, emphasis on think. Cupped washer first (cupping to the rear), Cone bushing (cone to the rear), Then place in bracket, Then plastic ring (cupping forward), then smaller bushing (cone to back), flat washer, nut. This could be wrong, just follow the way the old ones came out.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Longview, TX
Hello street... Mine were done by a front end shop and they are like screwy describes. Looking at your pic I can't tell which is larger but the larger diameter orange one goes on front between the cupped washer and the bracket (mine are white so the diameter could be different). You MIGHT have them in the correct order. Best I can tell, screwy has the orientation of each part the same as mine also.
Posting Guru
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From: Longview, TX
I took a good look at your service CD pic and crawled under mine. No shield on my R.H. but everything else looks the same. My front insulator OD is larger than outer insulator. BTW I just got mine back from front end shop yesterday for four ball joints. Hurt me $709. I woke up early this morning thinking about it at 3:51. My engine is a 351. Strange.
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Elder User
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From: Hoboken, NJ...
Originally Posted by b4hntn
I took a good look at your service CD pic and crawled under mine. No shield on my R.H. but everything else looks the same. My front insulator OD is larger than outer insulator. BTW I just got mine back from front end shop yesterday for four ball joints. Hurt me $709. I woke up early this morning thinking about it at 3:51. My engine is a 351. Strange.
Anyhow I am going downstairs right now to take a look under the Bronco and at the brackets I have compared to the info on the CD. I guess I should also start spraying the rad arm threads & nut with some PB Blaster to get them ready to come off. I will post back exactly what I find.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Longview, TX
Got 'em changed yet? Bubba said to bring it to his tree and he will change the rad arm bushings for $10 per side. He said it don't make no difference which way you slap 'em in.
Just kidding of course. Street how is it coming along? My new four ball joints made a world of difference. I took a couple of four wheelers to the deer lease today. It is sure nice to have a front end go where you want it to go. The steering box slack is not too much of an issue when everything else is tight....finally. The $709 will be a good investment when I get over it. It might save the lifes of my hunting buddy and me.
Just kidding of course. Street how is it coming along? My new four ball joints made a world of difference. I took a couple of four wheelers to the deer lease today. It is sure nice to have a front end go where you want it to go. The steering box slack is not too much of an issue when everything else is tight....finally. The $709 will be a good investment when I get over it. It might save the lifes of my hunting buddy and me.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: columbus oh.
bushings
cup washer cup twards rear/ big bushing cone tward rear/bracket/then plastic spacer turned to sit flush over bracket opening/ small bushing cone tward plastic spacer / flat washer. just replaced mine. awsome K9 how old mines 1 1/2 years?
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Hoboken, NJ...
I will be installing the RA bushings on Tuesday morning, and with the help of you guys and Minski5's tech listings I found enough pics and diagrams for me to be confident as to the correct sequence. Thanks!!!
You were talking about slack in the steering box......you do know that you can remove like 99% of that via the sector shaft adjustment screw at the very top of the box. The adj screw looks like a bolt going into the steering gear box on the top....it has a lock nut on it. You loosen the lock nut....and turn the adjuster like 1/4 turn and snug down the lock nut again....then test drive. The trick is not to go too far on the adjuster...you have to go just enough. You know you went too far when you make a turn and the steering wheel dont want to spin freely back to the original direction. I think ford says the wheel should return to 80% of where it was before you started the turn. Anyhow...if you haven't tried adjusting the sector shaft....it will take the slop right out.
You were talking about slack in the steering box......you do know that you can remove like 99% of that via the sector shaft adjustment screw at the very top of the box. The adj screw looks like a bolt going into the steering gear box on the top....it has a lock nut on it. You loosen the lock nut....and turn the adjuster like 1/4 turn and snug down the lock nut again....then test drive. The trick is not to go too far on the adjuster...you have to go just enough. You know you went too far when you make a turn and the steering wheel dont want to spin freely back to the original direction. I think ford says the wheel should return to 80% of where it was before you started the turn. Anyhow...if you haven't tried adjusting the sector shaft....it will take the slop right out.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Longview, TX
Yep. Did it per a previous thread of yours to the binding point and backed off a little. Thanks. Now that the loosy goosey wonder where it will wander next is fixed with new ball joints the little steering box slack is not an issue.