Radius arm bushings

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Sep 1, 2006 | 05:41 PM

tgore3

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From: Eureka, KS

Radius arm bushings

I got tired of the knocking under my feet when I hit bumps. I've got the driver side bracket off the frame finally. Those rivets are not much fun.

The end of the arm where the bushing rides is kinda ate away by rust, especially near the threads and the cup. Center of the rod seems to be pretty good.

Any tips on changing out these bushings? Any particular kind that works well? I've never changed a set out before.

Sep 1, 2006 | 07:39 PM

Sycostang67

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From: Kuna ID

I always use the polyeurathane bushings from Energy Suspension. They cost around $20 and will last much longer than the rubber ones. When I did my 2wd radius bushings, I removed the coil spring and shock, and pulled the axle forward to get the radius arm from the bracket.

Sep 1, 2006 | 08:43 PM

tgore3

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From: Eureka, KS

I got the driver side done. Advance had TRW heavy duty (poly standard design) and TRW improved design HB1245K (rubber but a better design). I flipped a coin and got the improved design. Used 7/16'' x 1 1/4" bolts to put the bracket back on. The "improved" bushings put a little more squeeze on the rod and tightened it up real nice. Didn't like the looks of the end of the radius arm where the bushing rides but there's no way this truck is getting new radius arms. At least it hadn't wore through the bushing and gone metal to metal.

I wasn't sure about the poly. I'd read good and bad for use on the radius arms. I usually like to use poly bushings wherever possible. I used all poly on my Mustangs.

Sep 2, 2006 | 10:07 PM

tgore3

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From: Eureka, KS

I got it all done today. Drove it around a little bit. That's a pretty worth while repair. Really tightens up the front end. Passenger side between the cup and threads was ate up pretty good as well. Hopefully it won't cause too much trouble. Put a little grease on them to slow down the corrosion. The old bushings being wore out probably allowed water and junk to get in between there and eat at them.

Now on to the ball joints and tie rods.

Poor old truck was about wore out.

Sep 6, 2006 | 11:45 PM

Pkupman82

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From: Muskegon, MI (home)

From personal experience, if your radius arms are showing any kind of erosion on the threaded stud area replace them! I had one break on me when I was out 4 wheeling in my 84, oohh that sucked. Out in the middle of the dunes with a busted radius arm is one way to spoil a weekend! I managed to find the other half that broke off so I could at least have my newly replaced bushings back. I used a come-a-long to bind the front axle and radius arm back against the mounting bracket and limp it back to camp where I repaired it that evening.

Sep 7, 2006 | 12:06 AM

tgore3

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From: Eureka, KS

That does make sense and it did cross my mind when I was checking them out. I won't be putting any stresses like 4 wheeling on them though. I did look around a little but couldn't even find a stock set for a 4x2. Are they a Ford part or can you get them aftermarket? I've seen the ones for lifted 4x4 Fords.

Only thing that crosses my mind is to cut out the old rod portions and have a machine shop turn down some new ones.

Last edited by tgore3; Sep 7, 2006 at 12:59 AM.

Sep 10, 2006 | 11:56 PM

Piffery1

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From: Niceville, FL.

You should have searched this Forum for "Radius Arm Bushings" before resorting to removing the rivets. There is an easy way to do it. I've changed the bushings on my '83 F350 and a friends '86(?) F150 without touching a rivet. See Sycostang's comment above. If the radius arm bushings were bad it's quite probable the pivot arm bushings are bad, too. Also, I'd try to find a good set of radius arms at a you-pull junkyard rather than try to repair the rusted ones (or maybe check eBay Motors auctions).