Hello once again! I am thinking about "gutting the cat" but can someone tell me the advantages and disadvantages of doing this?
Thanks

 

Sorry, I found this cool little feature at the top of the page called a search button....a wealth of information! but I would like some input...good thing? bad thing? worth it? better milage? better performance?
Thanks

 

Copedawg,

It helps but then you have exhaust gasses bouncing around in that open can trying to get out to, plus if you haven't changed the down pipe doing the cat isn't much of a change. Do yourself a favor and get a down pipe and a cat test pipe and you'll be in much better shape.

We stock a easier to install one that is available in aluminized or stainless, and our test pipes work with the down pipe or by themselves with the stock system as well.

Mark @ DPPI

 

Okie Dokie Mark, I will research some and get back with you, what are the prices for the whole job anyway?....you can pm me with the prices if you like. 97 F-350 7.3 crew cab (4dr) 8' bed (if it makes a diference).

 

i did the cat delete and dp the first time. a few months later i got the whole system. do it right the first time.

my .02

 

If I had a local exaust shop do it....what would be the price be do you think?....I am cheap Bstard....i have nickles with buffalos on them rusted together in my wallet!
Thanks

 

if your that cheap do it yourself not something i would pay for. its not hard either way you go with the cat delete/ dp or the whole system. just some clamps and hangers. the hardest part is modding the firewall for the new dp which isnt too bad.

 

what do you have to do to the firewall?

 

This was copied from Baz's website. Book mark it.

http://pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/_i...az/index3.html

Down Pipe - Turbo Exhaust Outlet Installation
Raise the vehicle to working height with hoist or jack stands. Remove the two nuts at the catalytic converter and turbo down pipe flange. Move rearward and to the side for working clearance. Loosen (but do not remove) the v-clamp at the turbo outlet, then shake the down pipe from below to loosen at the turbo outlet. Remove the MAP sensor on the firewall to create sufficient working area for the Sawzall. Remove the transmission dipstick and tube. To Keep debris or metal shavings from getting into the exposed end of the dipstick tube under the vehicle, place a clean, large rag or wiper in the opening. (Be sure your rag or wiper is big enough that it will not fall into the tube) Angle the Sawzall high and to the left and cut the down pipe approximately 4 inches from the clamp which connects it to the turbo. The object is to remove the "corba head" from the upper end of the down pipe so that it is possible to drop the remainder of the pipe out of the bottom of the vehicle. Note: We suggest starting with a new blade (Milwaukee#5187 metal cutting blade) because the factory pipe material is tough and dulls blades rapidly. Remove both sections of the factory pipe, then determine the path for the new US Gear "round" down pipe by inserting the top section of the new pipe into the empty channel which contained the factory down pipe. Take note of where the new pipe will cross the body seam under the vehicle. Reverse the blade in the say (or turn the say upside down) and, from under the vehicle, make two cuts in the body seam approximately 3# on each side of the path where the new pipe will cross the seam. Place the "duck-bill" port-a-power at the body seam and transmission and with a block of wood, fold the seam toward the rear of the vehicle as shown. This will create the necessary clearance for the new down pipe to be placed in the path without coming into contact with the body seam. With the insulating material provided, wrap the top section of the new down pipe and clam the end. Note: Soak the wrap in water to make the material more flexible. Remember to leave 2 to 3 inches exposed at the bottom to allow for the slip joint on the lower section. Install the top section to the turbo outlet with the v-clamp provided. Note: The v-clamp included with the kit is a spare in case there is damage done to the factory clamp during removal or reinstallation. Do not tighten at this time. Position the top edge of the 3" Torca clamp provided flush with the top edge of pipe. The clamp must cover the slots. Finish tightening nut to approximately 60 ft. lbs. (Note: If torque wrench is not available, tighten nut until 13-14 bolt threads are exposed beyond nut (13/16" -7/8"). This is equivalent to the diameter of a nickel. Reattach the catalytic converter to the flange, but do not tighten. Staring at the flange, position all the components for proper clearance and begin to tighten, working up the pipe toward the turbo. With the down pipe in the proper position, tighten the turbo v-clamp to 50 - 70 in. lbs. Reinstall the transmission dipstick assembly and the MAP sensor. Star the engine and check for exhaust leaks. Power brake the vehicle in both forward and reverse to ensure clearance, adjust if necessary (Body clearance). Most of the direction you need to get the room from is going to be directed at the passenger side door.

 

Thank you!

 

I gutted my CAT, it did make a difference but nothing like dropping the can in place for a pipe and a downpipe. sounds nice and opens it up with just that alone

 

Copedawg,

You have mail.

Mark @ DPPI

 

Mark,
I'm new to this site ... hope I'm asking the right person...
I need help locating an exhaust test pipe for my truck:1997 F250HD automatic
The privious owner did a not so great job of gutting it the cat and it needs to be replaced.
DPPI your company? Do you have a contact phone number?
Thanks JIM

 

Jim J,

Yes we have them in aluminized and stainless. Call us at 866-455-7788, we'll get you what you need.

Mark @ DPPI

 

YUP! After researching some I chose them. DPP hooked me up and I am wizzzzzzzssssssssssszzzzzzzen down the high ways now!
Thanks again MARK!
HOOOOGA!