When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm looking for help. I need to know if the boltpattern is the same for a 67-68 3 speed ford manual as it is for a mustang t5 to bolt up to the bellhousing. Also, is the depth of the bellhousing the same? I need a bellhousing for a 157 tooth flywheel and want to bolt up the 3 speed with cable actuation. I know it's a strange request and most would ask why not just use a t5, but I do have a reason. Thanks.
What engine are you hooking it to as there are many different engine families. If it is a Mustang T-5 than it could be a 2.3, 3.8, 5.0 (302), 5.8 (351W) or even a 3.3 (200)? What one are you using?
No, it's a different pattern. The T5 is a special pattern that only fits a bellhousing made specifically for a T5, and it's deeper as well since the T5 input shaft is longer.
I'm hooking it to a 5.0l. Thanks that anwers one question. Now, what bellhousing can I use for 157 tooth flywheel on an older trans? What years and from what is what I'm asking. I'd like to stay with a cable actuated clutch.
There were no cable clutch, 157 tooth, 3 speed patterned bellhousings. The nearest thing is the SROD (early 80's Mustang) or the later "Cobra" -Tremec 5 speed bell. The bolt pattern's the same, but the depth is wrong for a 3 speed. Only solution I can think of in your case is to ditch the 3 speed and go with either a T-5 or Tremec 5 speed. What vehicle are you putting this in?
It's going in a 91 ranger. Changing trans at this point wont work. I have it figured out how to work the clutch but, I need the proper bellhousing. I have figured out that the early mustangs 65-67 I believe were 157 tooth but I can't find one. I would like to know what others had 157 tooth.
The 60's Toploader aluminum bell were all 157 tooth. They're common as dirt on ebaymotors. I've got two myself, one in my V8 Ranger ( I went hydraulic on mine) and a spare. With an external linkage 3 or 4 speed in a Ranger, you're limited to building a cable system or using an internal slave hydraulic setup ( Mine's a McCleod unit ) The aluminum bell was used in all intermediate Ford's and Mercs with manual transmissions, not just the Mustangs.
I've been looking on ebay, and the only ones there right now are 164 tooth. I can tell, because of the casting numbers. Can you tell me where you got an internal slave system for an external linkage setup 3 speed?
McCleod makes a slip on internal slave, that's what I've had on mine for the last 4 years. Get on their website, get the phone number and call them. They'll tell you what you need. If they don't sell it out-right, Summit Racing carries it, it just ain't listed in the catalog. But sit down before you get the price. It ain't cheap. Mine was something like $300 for the components of it. You need the T/O bearing and the Adjuster sleeve. Then you'll need to adapt the hard plastic line to AN- fittings that the T/O bearing comes with. There's a guy on the Ranger Power Sports site forums that was making an adapter for this that plugged right into the master cylinder (I've got one on mine) but I don't know if he still does.(screen name is MdntRanger50) Also be prepared for firewall difficulties. Ford didn't reinforce the firewall at the clutch master location. Mine broke after a year or so with the V8, I fab'd an aluminum stiffener to fix it. There are others that had the same problems mine did. The plastic master cylinder can also be upgraded to aluminum with a larger bore. Bought mine thru Advance Auto parts, 7/8" bore aluminum. Good luck. Any other questions, you can email me.
What did you pay for that aluminum M/C? And how much did it change the pedal pressure?
I'm using the stock M/C with a Jeep Cherokee slave on a fabricated bracket with my T5 but I'm not sure it's got enough travel at this point. Just want to keep my options open...
(Click the pics to enlarge)
And why wouldn't an external slave work with the external rail shifter? It's the stock setup on the Tiger, which came with a Toploader. And there's plenty of room under the floorboards of the Ranger in that area.
Last edited by TigerDan; Sep 16, 2006 at 10:49 AM.
What did you pay for that aluminum M/C? And how much did it change the pedal pressure?
I'm using the stock M/C with a Jeep Cherokee slave on a fabricated bracket with my T5 but I'm not sure it's got enough travel at this point. Just want to keep my options open...
(Click the pics to enlarge)
And why wouldn't an external slave work with the external rail shifter? It's the stock setup on the Tiger, which came with a Toploader. And there's plenty of room under the floorboards of the Ranger in that area.
The aluminum master cylinder is about the same in price as the plastic one. Seems like the last one I bought was around $80. As for pedal effort I don't recall that much difference, the biggest difference I got in that regard was going to a Centerforce dual friction clutch and pressure plate. The p/p has counterweights that reduce the effort to about that of the V6 unit. NBow, with an external linkage 3 or 4 speed, the linkage takes up the same location that an external slve does, and there's not that much room in the tunnel for either, I even had to put a clearance dent in the floor for the linkage arm to clear for 3-4th gears. If you mounted the slave the other way, it'd run into problems clearing the exhaust. There's just no place for it, I don't see where you think there is, there sure isn't on mine.
Hmm, I may have my motor (and therefore tranny) sitting a little lower in the chassis than you do. That was one of my goals and the main reason I built my own mounts.
Just thinking out loud here so bear with me...The clutch fork has to move forward to disengage the clutch on a T5 with cable-operated clutch, so the slave cylinder has to mount alongside the tranny and push forward, as mine does in the pic.
A mechanical linkage-type clutch pushes to the rear to disengage (like the stock type older style linkage, the same thing that's used in the Tiger) so a slave cylinder has to mount alongside the bellhousing, pushing to the rear. The Tiger uses a nifty bracket that held by two of the bellhousing-to-engine bolts and tucks the slave in nicely against the bell, well out of the way of any external shift linkage. Wish I had a pic of it, and the car's in storage 40 miles away...
With an external slave, you can do it either way, push or pull. There's both types available to choose from. If I'd had room in mine I would have gone that route, but there's just no room for it.
I hope this helps, rather than confuses the issue, but my T-89 Warner 3 speed OD transmission from a '67 F100 has a 6-1/2" input shaft stickout and is the same diameter and spline count as an aluminum SROD 4 speed (includes OD) that came out of an early '80's F100. Both transmissions are factory drilled with a dual bolt pattern mounting face and fit my small block Ford (Mustang type) aluminum bellhousing. I also found this exact same bell in an early '80's Ford Econoline van and that application uses a hydraulic slave clutch slave cylinder that's externally mounted. This is similar to the original type slave cylinder that came stock on my '59 F100. I'm using these parts to keep the hydraulic clutch setup and avoid the expensive (though very high quality) internal hydraulic slave mentioned above. Just a thought on another way to go, using "factory" parts.
I hope this helps, rather than confuses the issue, but my T-89 Warner 3 speed OD transmission from a '67 F100 has a 6-1/2" input shaft stickout and is the same diameter and spline count as an aluminum SROD 4 speed (includes OD) that came out of an early '80's F100. Both transmissions are factory drilled with a dual bolt pattern mounting face and fit my small block Ford (Mustang type) aluminum bellhousing. I also found this exact same bell in an early '80's Ford Econoline van and that application uses a hydraulic slave clutch slave cylinder that's externally mounted. This is similar to the original type slave cylinder that came stock on my '59 F100. I'm using these parts to keep the hydraulic clutch setup and avoid the expensive (though very high quality) internal hydraulic slave mentioned above. Just a thought on another way to go, using "factory" parts.
The SROD bell is 1" deeper than the older Toploader bell. SROD's have a 7.8" input, same as the T-5, and Tremec's.
Last edited by baddad457; Sep 17, 2006 at 08:24 AM.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.