gas mileage
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: London , On
Originally Posted by PTownBronco
My wife and i get a constant 22mpg in our 05 V6 4WD. We do mostly highway with most of that around 70mph. A fifth gear would work wonders in this truck (in fact that's about the only thing i'd change). But i guess 22mpg ain't bad for an SUV. Would an aftermarket intake help out any?
JFUSION: how long are the spark plugs supposed to last?
JFUSION: how long are the spark plugs supposed to last?
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It's not so much the plugs wearing out at 100K, they probably would even last longer than that, but the problem arises getting the old plugs out of the engine block. Ford does not use any anti-seize when installing plugs and makes it a bear to get them out. My mechanic uses and air impact wrench to free the really tough ones.
I wouldn't wait much past 60K or 65K to change them out...
I wouldn't wait much past 60K or 65K to change them out...
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: North of Boston MA
Originally Posted by tonyford
It's not so much the plugs wearing out at 100K, they probably would even last longer than that, but the problem arises getting the old plugs out of the engine block. Ford does not use any anti-seize when installing plugs and makes it a bear to get them out.
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You could do that I guess, but going thru all the effort of taking the old ones out, it may be just more advantageous to just put new ones in with the anti-seize while everything is disassembled and be done with it for awhile.
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Joined: Jan 2006
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Originally Posted by Nitramjr
I know I'll probably never do it either but if you go through the effort of removing perfectly good plugs just to avoid them freezing in the head, why not just put some anti-seize on them and put them back in?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: GANS
Originally Posted by GatorJ
On 4 cylinder Escapes, that would make sense. On V-6 models, however, the overwhelming expense associated with changing the plugs involves the rear bank of plugs. Significant items have to be removed, disconnected and/or moved, including the upper intake manifold. Because the job is so labor intensive, it just makes more practical sense to install new plugs while you're there. NGK Iridiums are an excellent choice.
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I wouldn't tackle this job myself because I do not have the expertise or the time, but from what I have heard, if you take your time and know exactly what has to removed, it is not that hard of a job. Just make sure you have your new gaskets on hand before you start...
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From: London , On
I finally got my new plugs installed, the manifold removal is pretty easy overall, doesn't really take that long either. My biggest complaint is the cost of the manifold gaskets they are crazy expensive for a piece of rubber, they cost more than top of the line plugs. So yeah if you go to the expense of doing it all, throw in new plugs and that should hold you over for a long time. I used anti-sieze on the new plugs and a dose of dielectric grease on the cop boots.
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Originally Posted by JFUSION
I finally got my new plugs installed, the manifold removal is pretty easy overall, doesn't really take that long either. My biggest complaint is the cost of the manifold gaskets they are crazy expensive for a piece of rubber, they cost more than top of the line plugs. So yeah if you go to the expense of doing it all, throw in new plugs and that should hold you over for a long time. I used anti-sieze on the new plugs and a dose of dielectric grease on the cop boots.
You know now that you said that manifold is pretty easy to remove, I may tackle this myself this spring. I have 52,000 miles on the od and by spring it should be time for new plugs.
My only hesitation would be if I run into a frozen plug that would be difficult to remove. I do have an electric impact wrench, but don't know if it could develop enough torque to remove a frozen plug.
Did you run into any plug removal problems? Also, how many miles were on your vehicle when you did the change?
Thanks...
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: North of Boston MA
Originally Posted by GatorJ
On 4 cylinder Escapes, that would make sense. On V-6 models, however, the overwhelming expense associated with changing the plugs involves the rear bank of plugs.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: London , On
Originally Posted by tonyford
Good job! You will be set now for quite awile.
You know now that you said that manifold is pretty easy to remove, I may tackle this myself this spring. I have 52,000 miles on the od and by spring it should be time for new plugs.
My only hesitation would be if I run into a frozen plug that would be difficult to remove. I do have an electric impact wrench, but don't know if it could develop enough torque to remove a frozen plug.
Did you run into any plug removal problems? Also, how many miles were on your vehicle when you did the change?
Thanks...
You know now that you said that manifold is pretty easy to remove, I may tackle this myself this spring. I have 52,000 miles on the od and by spring it should be time for new plugs.
My only hesitation would be if I run into a frozen plug that would be difficult to remove. I do have an electric impact wrench, but don't know if it could develop enough torque to remove a frozen plug.
Did you run into any plug removal problems? Also, how many miles were on your vehicle when you did the change?
Thanks...
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Originally Posted by JFUSION
you will find that it is pretty easy once you get into it,you don't need any fancy tools, and most parts are pretty accessible. I am in no way a gear wrencher, so if I could do it the majority of people on this site should be able to do it. The trick is to take your time and follow instructions properly and torque the manifold to spec along with the plugs. Torque wrenches are readily available and cheap if someone doesn't have one, and pretty much every fastener is an 8mm socket size. The Escape engine bay has a fair bit of room in it too which helps, not as tight as my Fusion's bay. The plugs came out pretty easily, my truck has almost 30,000 miles on it. I do believe that Ford put oil on the plugs prior to installation as the threads did show signs of oil , though it was dried out. I highly doubt you would find a siezed plug, so don't let that stop you.
Beautiful explanation....
I just may tackle this myself and put in the NGK plugs...
Thanks...oh, by the way, where did you get the torque specs for the manifold and plugs?
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From: London , On
Originally Posted by tonyford
Beautiful explanation....
I just may tackle this myself and put in the NGK plugs...
Thanks...oh, by the way, where did you get the torque specs for the manifold and plugs?
I just may tackle this myself and put in the NGK plugs...
Thanks...oh, by the way, where did you get the torque specs for the manifold and plugs?
Joey
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Originally Posted by JFUSION
no problem, hope it helped. Torque for the manifold bolts (8 of them) is 89 inch lbs (don't mistake it for ft lbs which is 1/12th the value if inch lbs). The spark plugs are 11 ft lbs. ( or 132 inch lbs). I have a haynes manual but I think it is listed in the link for changing plugs that is on this site, check out the link it is very helpful with pics.
Joey
Joey
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From: London , On
Originally Posted by tonyford
Okay, thanks for the info, I copied and pasted this for reference. Looks like you need a small torque wrench for those values, anyway thanks again and definetly would like to do the job myself. I trust my mechanic, but I think you get more personal satisfaction knowing you can do the job yourself and do it right...