Just ordered the parts for the front-end rebuild of my 96 351. I am replacing the radius arm bushings, axle-pivot bushings, bearings, doing a manual hub conversion, and replacing the u-joints. Just wondering about time to complete project and problems/issues to be prepared for (am aware of removing the weld on the radius arm bolts) before I start this next week. I am really looking forward to the truck not shaking up front!! Thanks in advance for the input.

 

also tie rods and ball joints should be on that list. what weld on the radius arm bolts would you be talking about?

 

I forgot to put ball joints in the list, but I'll be doing those as well. I'll add the tie rods to it also, thanks kemical. As for the weld, I thought that I read in one of the forums a while back about a small tack weld or something similar on the nut or bolt holding the radius arm onto the axle housing. I will need to get the whole radius arm off won't I? If not, then great, one less problem to worry about.

 

i am willing to bet just the tie rods and ball joints are whats causing your front end shimmy. being as new of a rig you have i doubt the rest of the front end needs all that work. maybe the bearings repacked as well. have you been to an alignment shop lately they can tell ya whats worn and whats not

 

The radius arm bushings and the axle-pivot are done, checked em a couple weeks ago - a few pieces of the old bushings came free. I did go to an alignment shop to get one done and they told me the ball joints were toast (they would not be able to do the alignment and guarantee anything until the ball joints were done), and I figured since I'd have most of it apart anyway I might as well do the rest. Truck has nearly 175000 on it and spends alot of time off road also.

 

No welds that I am aware of on the raduis arm threads. But the lower bolts that hold the radius arms often need a little heat to get 'em free. However, if you are taking the front end that far apart, you don't need to get the radius arms free from the axle housing. With the axle pivots removed, you can simply shift the axle housing forward far enough to clear the end of the raduis arm around the bracket and then replace the bushing and re-install the radius arm. I truth, you don't even need to get the spring free from either the upper or lower cup. It actually helps to have part of the axle housing held up for a lot of the process. And yes, the axle housing will shift far enough forward with the spring attached to get the radius arm out of the mounting bracket. Ball joints are easiest done by a shop in my opinion. I removed the steering knuckles myself but had a shop remove the old from the kunckles and press in new ones.

Have a good look at your rotors while you are in there. With them sitting off the truck for a few days this might be the time to have 'em turned or replace 'em if needed. Depends on what the condition of the brakes is really.

 

sounds like you got things covered pacman, do as Grey mentioned it will help as well. take pics and post of your progress

 

Thanks guys, I appreciate the input. UPS says the parts are on their way, so hopefully I can get to it sometime in the next week and a half.

 

Yeah let us know how the Ball Joint Progress gos. Would really like to see a writeup on this...that and tie rods. I plan on doing them both soon so I may write them up myself.

 

In just a bit, when I am done reading through the forum, I am heading over to Rock Auto web site to order a new set of Moog ball joints for my 93 daily driver. Its just the left side upper one that has a tiny bit of play, but because I am so **** I want to change both sides upper and lower. I did rad arm bushings and brackets last week, and wanted to have it aligned, but I know with the ball joint job coming next week I would have to wait till its all done. I have access to a shop and a mechanic and a lift.....so the ball joints will be getting done with me helping, and thats the way I like it.

 

What price did you get your moogs for? I can get the upper and lower (Dana/S[icer) for $45 a side. Not too bad!

 

I went through RockAuto and paid 138.00 with shipping for all upper/lower left/right. Your price does sound very good and the Dana/Spicer components are very good.