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I paid a shop $125.00 to replace both of mine, but I gave them the parts, so it was all labor, but they did have to grind and chisel all the rivets out of them, thats the only reason I didnt do it myself, but now i can with just bolts in it
I thought you would have to grind rivets, also. Then I read the manual. The first side took a little over an hour, other side went a bit faster.
Basically you:
Lift the front end.
Loosen the spring and shock (one side at a time)
As the Tire/TTB drop down a few inches it will allow the TTB to pull forward a little. This allows the rear of the radius arm to pull from its mount once you remove the big nut behind the bushing. (Some people use a "Come-along" to whinch the axle assembly forward).
Install the new bushing.
Re install everything in reverse order.
Pretty easy, huh? A $12 repair manual explains it pretty good.
If your exhaust runs close to either side radius arm bushing ensure you use a heat shield cup. A lot of people go with Polyurethane bushings. Supposed to last a lot longer and are as cheap as factory parts, maybe cheaper. Ask about them at any 4x4 suspension shop.
i figure that while your replacing the radius arm bushing, you might as well replace the pivot bushings.
If you're going to do that, then there's no need to cut or grind anything. The I-beam or TTB must be removed (or at least lowered) to replace the pivot bushings, which lets the radius arm fall right out of the bracket. The pivot bushings last at least 2x-3x longer than the radius arm bushings, so there's usually no need to replace them unless some flat-rate monkey has butchered them.
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