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Ball joint help please
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Ball joint help please
Just bought a 1998 explorer sport with 52K miles and in excellent condition. Replaced shocks, pcv, fuel filter, differential fluid, radiator fluid, transmission flush and refill, oil /filter change...When we had it up in the air I noticed the ball joint rubber dust covers were cracked/torn but the ball joints themselves are tight and in perfect condition(no play). I also noticed there are no places to grease the joints. Is it bad to have torn dust covers and will it effect the actual ball joints...dry them out faster etc.should I cram grease in around the joints by hand? The whole ball joints will have to be replaced in order to get new dust covers...Help/opinions please.
Thanks
Thanks
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Friendswood, Texas
They may not be bad yet but they will be soon enough if the boot is torn. I noticed this on my 96 Explorer Sport last fall and replaced them. Like yours, everything was fine except the torn boot but no telling how much crap had gotten in there before I found it. The new ones were considerably tighter. It wasn't a bad job as I recall.
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Originally Posted by texan2004
They may not be bad yet but they will be soon enough if the boot is torn. I noticed this on my 96 Explorer Sport last fall and replaced them. Like yours, everything was fine except the torn boot but no telling how much crap had gotten in there before I found it. The new ones were considerably tighter. It wasn't a bad job as I recall.
You say it wasn't a bad job..did you do it yourself?. The mechanic told me it is a bitch to do...
Cargo Master
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From: Friendswood, Texas
The mechanic is lying. I did mine myself and it wasn't too big a problem at all. Make sure you have a good separation tool and a big A$$ hammer. Parts weren't all that cheap as I recall. Remember, I've slept a few times since I did this a year or so ago.
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Originally Posted by texan2004
The mechanic is lying. I did mine myself and it wasn't too big a problem at all. Make sure you have a good separation tool and a big A$$ hammer. Parts weren't all that cheap as I recall. Remember, I've slept a few times since I did this a year or so ago.
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Originally Posted by texan2004
The mechanic is lying. I did mine myself and it wasn't too big a problem at all. Make sure you have a good separation tool and a big A$$ hammer. Parts weren't all that cheap as I recall. Remember, I've slept a few times since I did this a year or so ago.
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Cargo Master
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From: Friendswood, Texas
Good for you. Keep FTE as a favortie. There is much to be learned here. One reason I pay the $15.00 or so annual fee to be a supporter. I figure it pays for itself 100 times over each year.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Sand Lake, MI
Originally Posted by 98xlt
I understand the uppers replacement includes some suspension arms.
Last edited by danr1; Sep 14, 2006 at 03:33 PM. Reason: wording
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My wife just was told she needed ball joints but I don't see any of the regular signs with a quick peek (bad boots, bleeding rust or noises)
I know there aren't any fittings but are there "ports"?. I know some cars just had a hole where the zerk goes and you use a pointed tip gun.
I am going to get a good look Saturday when I can get it up in the air and shake stuff.
I know there aren't any fittings but are there "ports"?. I know some cars just had a hole where the zerk goes and you use a pointed tip gun.
I am going to get a good look Saturday when I can get it up in the air and shake stuff.
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: north carolina
The majority of the OEM ball joints do not have zerk fittings. Manufacturer argues they are "permanently lubed for life of the ball joint". Guess I'm old school, but I contend grease wears out, just like oil, and metal against metal needs to be periodically lubed.
Replace with Moog or equivalent quality with zerk fittings, and give them a shot of grease every other oil change.
As for checking ball joints for wear, be aware that often you can't "feel" the looseness by shaking the tire. A better method is to jack up one side using the jack point just until the tire clears contact with the ground. Put a crowbar or similar under the tire as a lever and push down while watching for lost motion or displacement of the joint. Any significant lost motion visually seen indicates a worn joint. Plus, watch for abnormal tire wear, like cupping, or wearing out the inside tire rib.
Replace with Moog or equivalent quality with zerk fittings, and give them a shot of grease every other oil change.
As for checking ball joints for wear, be aware that often you can't "feel" the looseness by shaking the tire. A better method is to jack up one side using the jack point just until the tire clears contact with the ground. Put a crowbar or similar under the tire as a lever and push down while watching for lost motion or displacement of the joint. Any significant lost motion visually seen indicates a worn joint. Plus, watch for abnormal tire wear, like cupping, or wearing out the inside tire rib.