When boring a block what new parts do i need besides pistons, pistons rings, and gaskets? And what size of bore would you guys recommend? .030 over?

Thanks
Michael

 

Do you have to bore the block? I chose to bore mine when I broke it down at 76,000 miles on it. The less you bore the stronger it remains. If you plan on stroking it later on then maybe figure out the max CID you want now. .030 now will allow for a 514 stroker later.

 

Well to do it right and allow for changes later, bore it only as much as required to restore the cylinders. 0.030 is usually where the first time through an engine winds up. Eagle sells a set of bushed rods for less than it will cost to refurbish your old rods. Piston selection depends on the intended use of the engine and desired compression ratio. Balance the rotating assembly and use quality rings, bearings, pistons, ARP main stud kit, Cloyes timing chain and a new oil pump. Later you can do other modifications without pulling the engine. Get the bottom right and strong. Improve on performance later as the budget allows.

 

William the problem with the bushed rods, is your limited on your piston choices to usually the more expensive pistons that are compatable with floating pins, plus you have the added cost of new pins and locks. Yes you might save a few bucks on the rods but spend several hundred more to make them work. If your planning on over 6000rpm a lot then use floating pins but on a basic daily driver or typical play truck I just recommend the press fit, easier, cheaper and actually will last longer (no bushing ot wear out.)

 

Really! Every set of pistons I bought came with pins and locks. The rods are NEW, already have the ARP fasteners and you have a choice of bushed or press fit. Go back and read the first post. This guy is not building an over 6000 RPM engine. And bushed is better IMHO!

 

I have never done a 460 so the info I have is from a long time ago when I did this kind of stuff for fun with Mopars...

In general the guys are right about .030 being a good starting bore. This leaves room for future rebuilds and also lessens the problem of too much heat. The thinner the walls of the cylinder, the more heat you dump into the coolant. .060 is another "classic" overbore size but you get more heat and less meat for the future.

I have read that you can push the bore to about .100 on a 460 BUT, you must have the block checked to make sure there was no core shift which would make the walls way too thin.

When you finish hone the bore be sure to check with the ring manufacturer to determine the correct cross hatch pattern and surface smoothness.

If I was doing a drive around forever engine I would go with .030. If I wanted a bit more I might go with .060 or even .080, but make sure I had a good radiator. The difference in CID is not all that much between the choices, maybe 20 inches or so from stock to the bigger bores. Stroking is where you pick up a lot of cubes. For example on a 383 Mopar, I did .060 and got a whopping 7 inches more displacement, whooo hooo.

Just my opinion based on old, maybe obsolete thinking,

Jim Henderson