Hello-
I drive (or drove) a 1969 F-250, with a rebuilt 360, and a C-6. The 360 has your basic performance mods- aluminum intake, 4-barrel, headers, dual exhaust. I was driving it on the freeway last week, heard a "clicking, or ticking" noise, so I moved into the right lane, and dove for the nearest exit. Right as I neared the top, I heard something break. It almost sounded like a belt had snapped free. So the truck died out, and I rolled to a safe spot at the top of the off ramp. I jumped out, popped the hood, and soon discovered nothing out of place. No fluids rushing out, no belts broken. I tried to start the truck, but it would just try and try, but would not bite. I then proceeded to go through my basic knowledge of problems (I have owned two other 69s and a 72) checking fuel to the carb, and spark to the distributor. Having both of those, and still not being able to detect the source of my problem, I gave in. It was getting dark, I could barely see, so I called up the tow truck. The next day, I started into the truck. I decided to start in the area of the distributor, and after a few different checks, I ended up bumping the engine with the cap off the distributor. I could see that the rotor was not moving when I did this- which is a bad sign to me. I then proceeded to pull out the distributor to make sure it was in one solid piece and still spun freely, which it does, although it smelled of burnt oil. I then popped off each valve cover and found that a pushrod on each side, second to nearest to the firewall, was unseated. To make things better, when I removed them, the pushrod on the right side was bent, and the little ball on the end was gone. Again, something I determined to be a bad sign. So I then tore off the alternator, p/s pump, water pump, and all other hoses in my way. When I finally managed to pull the timing chain cover back a little, I could see the top gear, without a timing chain on it. Well I wiggled the cover back more, and could see my timing chain sitting securely down below. I bent a coat hanger and fished it out- the chain was snapped, and I could smell the strong scent of burned oil. I then proceeded to remove the carb and intake manifold, all of my pushrods, etc. I can now freely turn the top gear that is usually covered my the timing chain... when I do, the cylinders that the pushrods seat in move up and down- except for the two on each side, nearest to the firewall ( four total). The other twelve move up and down. There was only one bent pushrod, and that bent pushrod was unseated with the pushrod directly across from it. The remaining fourteen pushrods were seated when I first pulled of the valve covers. Well, I think I painted a fairly decent picture of what has happened here. I am by no means a mechanic (as if that wasnt obvious) but I can handle more than your basic engine work. My main questions that I would love to have answered:

- What would happen in the engine that would make all this happen? (My dad thinks it has something to do with the oil pump going out, losing lubrication, etc.)

- How bad is this? Is this engine completely trashed? Or can I perform an easy repair?

- Do I have to pull this engine to complete the work?

Thank you for any help you guys throw at me. I am hoping to avoid the price tag of dropping it at off at a shop to have them do a few hundred dollars worth of work on it.

Tristin

 

It sounds to me like it broke the cam, which caused piston to valve contact, and in the process killed the timing chain. The chickens and eggs of this are debatable as to which happened first, but I think you need to pull the heads and inspect at this point. I'm going to guess the valve that goes with the bent pushrod is seized in it's guide.

 

I'm thinking you may or may not have a lot going on here. As rusty mentioned, pull your heads and inspect. It sounds to me like your oiling system took a schit and caused all of this too happen. I'm guessing your pump or your drive shaft for the pump. Unfortunately, you now have bigger fish to worry about, rather than a $25 oil pump and $10 shaft.

For what it's worth to ya, go ahead and pull the motor and put it on a stand. It doesn't take mush to pull it and is much better to work with than in the truck. this way you can also pull your pan and take a look at your lower end for any lack of oiling on your bearings.

 

Thanks for the advice. I was hoping I wouldnt have to pull the engine, but I guess it makes the most sense. I've never done this, but you say its fairly easy? I imagine I just need to unbolt the block from the tranny and using a cherry picker, tip and pull? In a 1969 F-250, do I need to remove anything else? Any help would be appreciated in this area as well, since I really would prefer a smooth operation.

-Tristin

 

Just pull off the hood so it doesn't get in the way. Make sure you draw a line around the hinges where they mount so you can line them back up when you put it back together. You should have 6 or so bolts holding the motor to the tranny then the bolts that hold the exhaust to the headers which is another 6 bolts. Disconnect the battery cables from the battery (First thing) and the starter. drain water from radiator and then dissconnect hoses. Then dissconnect the two motor mounts. If you have time and the parts aren't rusted you could pull the grill and radiator mount to assist in the removal however it is not needed. Just a safety precaution if you have a nice grill.

 

Dont forget the inspection plate on the bottom of your C6, and the 4 bolts that hold your TC(Torque Converter) to the flex plate. You should be able to just disconnect negative battery cable on the battery, then pull your starter with the wire still connected to starter. Unplug any wiring harness/wires that go to coil and dizzy. If it's got headers, disconnect from heads. If logs, disconnect from collector of log and exhaust pipe. You should be able able to leave grill and such in, but remove fan shroud, fan and radiator.

Other than that, follow what is listed above.

Any questions, do not hesitate to ask us. There is a plethora of knowledge around these parts.

Mike

 

This may be getting a little too far ahead, but as a heads up, be prepared to replace the nuts that hold the converter to the flexplate. If it's been awhile since the motor and tranny have been apart, there's a good chance they're going to be trashed by the time you get them out.

NONE of the parts houses or hardware stores around me stocked the "proper" nuts (3/8-24 grade 8 flanged nut) so I had to order a set and wait 2 days. That's a real buzz kill when you've just dropped a fresh motor back into a car and just want to go tearing down the street.

Justin

 

Again, I appreciate the information guys. I made a few calls, and a few of my fellow firefighters have engine hoists and stands, so it looks like the engine pull-out is a go. One last question though, and this one might seem even easier than the last one: Since I already removed the intake manifold, how do I pull the engine? I've only ever seen it done on TV, but they bolted some harness into the manifold, where the carb would be. Do I have ot reinstall the manifold to pull the engine? Thanks in advance, and I will make sure to update on the progress of my mess.

Tristin

 

there are threaded bolt holes on the back of the heads, pretty sure they're 3/8-16. Bolt a chain to one head at the back and the opposite head at the front and yank it right out of there.

Justin

 

I have also used a head bolt in the top/middle bolt holes of the block deck to secure a chain... The front to back chaining in the heads works pretty good for balance too. Enlist some of the guys who have the hoists to help you out, if they have those tools, they have the experience to go with them

--Mike (G)

 

Ain't that the honest truth.... Buy a case of beer and invite them up. What guy would turn down a couple hours in the shop with the guys drinking beer? Or do you think they'll want to stay home and listen to the wife complain about the lawn not being mowed and your stack of tires out on the side of the house, ect. ect.

However, do not let your buddies open a beer until the motor is on the stand.

 

Good advice. I have a friend with a truck going to pick-up the hoist today, so we should be in good shape. Hopefully the weather out here in Gig Harbor, WA stays decent for me.

-Tristin

 

Stack of tires out on the side of the house, now that hurts as they are bald and I only want the rims. When the WAR DEPARTMENT gets pissed somehow the tires get mentioned. We must be married to the same woman.

.....=o&o>.....

 

Yeah, don't **** off the war department. That's why I choose to try an keep the tires stacked behind the woodshed. The only problem with my crap being stock piled back there is she sometimes see's the crap, cause that's where the burn barrel is. I guess that's why I try an burn the garbage most of the time.

I've also got another good hidden spot out in the barn. She thinks I go up and clean the barn and tend to the cows. But in reality, I'm diggin' thru old Ford parts and taking pulls off the handle that I keep up there.

She may think she's got me figured out, but this ol boy was raised by his father.

 

Well, the engine came out with relative ease- although we did have to shift it around a few times, mostly because of the headers. Regardless, the beast is out, and almost completely stripped down. However, I have found some bad stuff already. Along with a broken timing chain, and my gears that power the chain missing a few teeth, I found out I broke at least one lifter. Three are stuck, but I found bits of at least one in the oil pan. Also, the cam snapped. I pulled it out, but 1/4 of it is still in the back. So now the question becomes money. Should I buy crate? Should I have this one rebuilt, not knowing how bad I broke it? Send it out, or do it myself? Tough questions, time and money heavily involved in each. Just thought I would toss up a little update. I plan on dropping the crank tomorrow, mainly because its just about the last thing on the engine. If anyone knows prices for a good crate, or estimated rebuilt prices, I would appreciate.

-Tristin