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1990 ford f250 starting problems
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1990 ford f250 starting problems
i just replaced my timming chain on a 90 f250 the truck starts but dies right after. if i goose the throtle then it will stay running the idle air is clean and tps is good im stumped please help.
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no it died before i changed it. truck wouldnt even run now it does but have to goose it to stay running. im thinking it might be the computer. the comprestion is good ive got 125-130 across all 8 no back fires just wont idle when i open it up to get the rpms up it sounds like its starving or getting to much gas.
p.s i mech i talked to said the pickup coil would do the same thing??
p.s i mech i talked to said the pickup coil would do the same thing??
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Post Fiend
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From: Topsfield, MA
FP should be about 40-45psi at idle with a V-8....about 55psi with a six banger...
You did the running and not-running engine code checks?
Parts swapping is not diagnosis...a lot of people will just replace parts and pray they switched the right one but in the end it usually ends up being a waste of money and doesn't end til the found it....
There is a more logical approach to fixing problems....like testing the TFI module before spending the money to replace it. I don't believe it's the TFI module.
Maybe pick up a Haynes manual for the truck as well.
Check your timing with a timing gun, with the SPOUT connector removed. Should be 10 degrees BTDC at any rpm.
You did the running and not-running engine code checks?
Parts swapping is not diagnosis...a lot of people will just replace parts and pray they switched the right one but in the end it usually ends up being a waste of money and doesn't end til the found it....
There is a more logical approach to fixing problems....like testing the TFI module before spending the money to replace it. I don't believe it's the TFI module.
Maybe pick up a Haynes manual for the truck as well.
Check your timing with a timing gun, with the SPOUT connector removed. Should be 10 degrees BTDC at any rpm.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Topsfield, MA
You never answered my question as to whether or not the truck ran correctly before you touched the timing chain....
Is that true or not?
If so, than whatever the issue is is timing/timing chain related....and is definitely not the TFI.
If not....than we need to take a different approach.
You also never stated what the idle fuel pressure was...
When is the last time you changed the fuel filter or that it was changed?
If it runs for 5 seconds or so than it's enough time to check the timing with a gun....so make sure it's timed right.
Your responses have been very blunt...the more detail and information you can discuss with us the easier time we will have in helping you fix the truck and get you going again...
Is that true or not?
If so, than whatever the issue is is timing/timing chain related....and is definitely not the TFI.
If not....than we need to take a different approach.
You also never stated what the idle fuel pressure was...
When is the last time you changed the fuel filter or that it was changed?
If it runs for 5 seconds or so than it's enough time to check the timing with a gun....so make sure it's timed right.
Your responses have been very blunt...the more detail and information you can discuss with us the easier time we will have in helping you fix the truck and get you going again...
Last edited by MustangGT221; Aug 31, 2006 at 04:06 PM.
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cnt. mod.
dude look on ur distr. there is a control module it cost 32$ @ oreilly trust me just changed the whole fuel sys. on my 87 f150 cost about 400$. now you can take it to test it but the one i had tested good 8 straight times but their test doesnt get as hot as ur eng.
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just checked it idle fp is 50 psi
fuel filter was change when the timming chain was replaced
the truck ran bad stalled when comming to a stop then i didnt run at all
when i pulled the timming chain cover the gears where at 12 and 12 checked it with alldata and hayes manule and it said the crank and cam where sopost to be 12 and six i did that put new gears and chain on but it turns starts then dies when trying to come back to idle. if i try to high idle it it runs for 4-5 sec then dies when i goose it runs
fuel filter was change when the timming chain was replaced
the truck ran bad stalled when comming to a stop then i didnt run at all
when i pulled the timming chain cover the gears where at 12 and 12 checked it with alldata and hayes manule and it said the crank and cam where sopost to be 12 and six i did that put new gears and chain on but it turns starts then dies when trying to come back to idle. if i try to high idle it it runs for 4-5 sec then dies when i goose it runs
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Topsfield, MA
Do whatever you can do to keep it running and check the timing with a timing gun.
Like I said, the RPM doesn't matter when the SPOUT connector is out. It will stay at the same timing regardless of RPM or running condition unless there is a spark problem. Get a buddy to help if need be.
Bigwill - there are two things you could be talking about....1 is the TFI module that was on the distributor for early models and moved to the drivers fender on later models....and there is the hall effect sensor inside the distributor which tells the computer information of engine rotation (specifically, where #1 is).
You're probably talking about the TFI module, but I thought I'd clarify. Also, you could of checked your fuel system with a pressure gauge to see if it was functioning correctly before replacing it.
So check your timing...
FP sounds good.
Might want to take the IAC off the throttle body and clean it with some solvent. That is the idle air control module that the computer uses to adjust airflow into the engine at idle.
Like I said, the RPM doesn't matter when the SPOUT connector is out. It will stay at the same timing regardless of RPM or running condition unless there is a spark problem. Get a buddy to help if need be.
Bigwill - there are two things you could be talking about....1 is the TFI module that was on the distributor for early models and moved to the drivers fender on later models....and there is the hall effect sensor inside the distributor which tells the computer information of engine rotation (specifically, where #1 is).
You're probably talking about the TFI module, but I thought I'd clarify. Also, you could of checked your fuel system with a pressure gauge to see if it was functioning correctly before replacing it.
So check your timing...
FP sounds good.
Might want to take the IAC off the throttle body and clean it with some solvent. That is the idle air control module that the computer uses to adjust airflow into the engine at idle.