Dead Battery!
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Senior User
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From: SoCal
Dead Battery!
My 03 F-250 cc had both batteries die out on me about 6 months ago while on a camping trip. I am very careful about not leaving any accessories on while the vehicle is off. I thought well it has been almost 3 years so original batteries might be losing their oomph. Ford replaced both with brand new 750cca (ford) batteries when they replaced the blown intercooler.
Fast forward to one week ago. I go to my truck and find it turns over and runs, but not quite as quick as the normal startup. Two days later I'm below 11.0 volts and the truck won't start. I slow charged the batteries, even left the alarm off, just locked the doors. It lasts only 2 days.
I have only 22,000 miles on this truck because I drive a F-350 for work during the week. My wife alternates her car with the truck when driving to work. I don't know what is killing these things. Today the truck threw a code, borrowed a reader and it said #4 glow plug problem.
Am I not driving it enough or is there something else. Only found a .2 amp load from the batteries with the alarm off and sitting.
Fast forward to one week ago. I go to my truck and find it turns over and runs, but not quite as quick as the normal startup. Two days later I'm below 11.0 volts and the truck won't start. I slow charged the batteries, even left the alarm off, just locked the doors. It lasts only 2 days.
I have only 22,000 miles on this truck because I drive a F-350 for work during the week. My wife alternates her car with the truck when driving to work. I don't know what is killing these things. Today the truck threw a code, borrowed a reader and it said #4 glow plug problem.
Am I not driving it enough or is there something else. Only found a .2 amp load from the batteries with the alarm off and sitting.
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Joined: May 2006
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well 22k on an 03 is very low, maybe you are not driving it enough to charge the batteries to a full charge, they may be charging but maybe only 60% or 70% .... did you check to see if your alternator is charging?
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From: SoCal
I didn't do a true amp check, but did notice when it started, the glow plugs pulled down the voltage, then after they shut off the voltage came up slowly. Even after driving it for 30 minutes, the voltage at idle was 12.5v. no extra accessories. Not even the a/c-fan motor.
Also, it hadn't done this in the first 2 years of the truck life. Only started(coincidently) after they installed a new long block (as the other dug its own grave).
Also, it hadn't done this in the first 2 years of the truck life. Only started(coincidently) after they installed a new long block (as the other dug its own grave).
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Wickenburg, AZ
Something's definitely wrong if your voltage is that low.
It's certainly not the 0.2 amp draw that's doing it.
Where did you take that reading from, though? If you're using a clip-on ammeter, you should pull from the positive cable on the passenger side battery. The driver's side one is nothing but a permanently installed jump-start rig to the passenger side one.
You should see what the alternator is doing in terms of amps, because if that's decent and your battery voltage is still low, chances are it's a shorted cell in one of those batteries.
It's certainly not the 0.2 amp draw that's doing it.
Where did you take that reading from, though? If you're using a clip-on ammeter, you should pull from the positive cable on the passenger side battery. The driver's side one is nothing but a permanently installed jump-start rig to the passenger side one.
You should see what the alternator is doing in terms of amps, because if that's decent and your battery voltage is still low, chances are it's a shorted cell in one of those batteries.
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From: SoCal
My readings were at the posts of the battery. I used my meter in series to see any possible amount of draw while in the off position. This reading showed up on the accessory bolt of the drivers side positive lug. Not the #2 gauge wire, the other ring terminal off the post. I'm thinking alternator also, but will see. I dropped it off a Ford last night. Thanks for the responses.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Wickenburg, AZ
Move me to the something's up with the alternator camp as well. I just pulled up a description of the charging system from the cookbook and I made a bad assumption last night, namely that they had handed full control of the alternator over to the computer and done away with the regulator on the back end of the alternator. Apparently, it's still there. It's got a twist to it if there's dual generators, but otherwise it's more or less unchanged since when they went to the little gray boxes on the back.
Sorry for the mess-up, anyway, and best of luck with getting your problem fixed.
Sorry for the mess-up, anyway, and best of luck with getting your problem fixed.
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From: Trappe Pa
Rule-of-thumb:
NO key off battery drain larger than 50 milliamps or you will have dead battery issues. This number can also be written as 0.050 amps. The amperage draw of .2 amps can be written this way: 0.200 amps. The amp draw of 0.200 amps is much higher than 0.050 amps.
Note: Several electrical systems on Ford vehicles may not time out and turn off until one hour has passed since the doors were closed and no attempts have been made to gain access to the vehicle by opening the doors manually or with a keyless entry door remote or the keyless entry keypad on the door.
NO key off battery drain larger than 50 milliamps or you will have dead battery issues. This number can also be written as 0.050 amps. The amperage draw of .2 amps can be written this way: 0.200 amps. The amp draw of 0.200 amps is much higher than 0.050 amps.
Note: Several electrical systems on Ford vehicles may not time out and turn off until one hour has passed since the doors were closed and no attempts have been made to gain access to the vehicle by opening the doors manually or with a keyless entry door remote or the keyless entry keypad on the door.
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