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I have a 1996 F350 CC 4x4 5sp 7.3L PSD. From what I've read on older posts, I think my dual mass flywheel has failed and is due for replacement. It vibrates horribly when coming to an idle, and has recently started to jerk violently when idling along at slow speeds. So my question is how long does it take to replace the flywheel if I do the work myself? And is it worth it in $$ to do the work myself? I don't think I can afford to pay someone to replace it. I'm planning on moving across the country soon, so I want to get it fixed soon as I'll be towing my classic car behind it. I currently live in an apartment and do not have the space for the work. I can use the shop where I work to perform maintenance, but only on weekends. I live near Everett, WA, is there anyone in this area that would be willing to help me fix this?
i did mine by myself in about 7 hours. took a little long because i used a hobby shop on base and the guy made me take my xfer case off the tranny before i pulled it off. he didnt think it would be safe on the tranny jack with all that weight. i just did mine before my x country move from fl to here.
well worth not paying someone to do it. i paid 900 for the clutch and 10 bucks for shop time. i have all the tools minus the tranny jack.
i recommend a sbc con ofe.
let me know what you want to do. i leave mid september for a month.
Last edited by 1997F-350; Aug 27, 2006 at 01:05 AM.
Are there any specialty tools required to do this job? Obviously I'd need a transmission jack, but is there anything else? Also, I figured it would be a good idea to install new pilot and throwout bearings. Are there any other parts that should be replaced while I'm in there?
my sbc con ofe came with a new throw out bearing and the pilot bearing/bushing. mine was a kevlar bushing.
on single mass flywheels the bushing/bearing is pressed into the flywheel unlike how on other vehicles its in the end of the crank.
the only thing i bought was some more loctite and a 2 foot long 1/2" drive extension. it made the top bolts of the tranny an ease to get once you drop the crossmember. dont worry it wont hurt anything to let the engine rest this way.
if you need help i could probably help you next weekend not this upcoming one though.
I've been to Everret for a day on a trip, nice country out thier...........
As for a jack on the tranny, I have an E40D with transfer case as well, I removed the transfercase cause of the weight thiing, removeal of this does make it a little easier IMO but if you got no tranny jack, a suggestion would be call a friend down to help lift it in place, my buddy and I lifted my E40d right in place with alot of grunting and swearing but we got it in. I cant imagine the standards being heavier then the automatics.
Yous till in WA up in Everett? I am 30 miles south in Bellevue and getting ready to do this soon. I have to fix a leaky main seal and oil pan, and also do a slave cylinder. Since im there and going the DIY route, any help would be appreciated.
I have a full service shop at my disposal (A friend owns and independant service station with lif and tools and such. He jsut works gas and is not a Diesel wiz, but the ansillaries like this are common so he is going to help too.
Why don't you get the fix while you are at it? There is a flywheel out there designed to replace the dual mass so it woun't fail ever again. If I remember right it is cheaper too. Only catch is you have to buy the clutch and disc at the same time.
you buy the kit....then when it comes time for a new clutch down the road, you can buy them seperately.
Im still trying to find out if an early 6.9L single mass flywheel and clutch will work. Im not modding my truck much...the need for a larger clutch isnt a real necessity for me.
I took a look at both the SB and the LUK kits. Seems they both offer several kits. While I am not going for any serious mods, I do plan on going to a full 4" Tymar exhaust, HPX, Intake, and using an Edge Evolution soon. Mainly becasue I am getting this truck in shep for towing, not so much speed. This spring I will have an 11k lb trailer to haul behind it. I want to get the right clutch.
Seems both offer a dual disc setup for heavy duty HP and use..is that what I should use, or will the single disc heavy duty kit be good enough for me?
Since the Luk dual disc setup is a little over $800.00, I was also going to do a new slave cylinder (which I ened now), Master Cylinder, and fork.
luk has a very nice kit, flywheel t.o. bearing and clutch assmembly. plastic alignment tool to line it all . pull off the t case to lighten the load and make it easier. pull the trans and your at it. get your self a new set of flywheel bolts to play safe. "i think they are strech bolts" just take your time it's a big trans.have some help if you can get it and plan on a full day's work.
i think you will find bleeding the clutch back out is the hardest part of the job. best wishes and good luck
I wish I'd of know of this site when I replaced mine. I would have replaced it with a solid flywheel. Oh well, next time...
Be careful when you unbolt the flywheel from the engine. That frakking thing is heavy. I pulled it off and all I could do was s-l-o-w-l-y lay it down on my chest, realize how close I was to an emergency room visit and slide it of in the floor. It all happened real quick.
As far as weight. A 5 speed is much smaller than the E4OD. If you can figure out how to balance the whole unit, I don't think it would weigh to much to leave the transfer case on. I bet a 5 speed ZF and the transfer case combined weighs less than an E4OD.
An extra set of hands will come in handy. A transmission jack and a basic set of tools are all that's needed. I didn't even have a transmission jack. I used a motorcycle lift. I didn't use new bolts but I would recommend them.
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