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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 06:31 PM
  #1  
cooky's Avatar
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valve cover gaskets

Rubber or cork.What does all you recomend?I have cork now and they leakeda little.Now I can't get them to stop.If rubber do I use some kind of sealant?
 
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 06:38 PM
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78f-150Supercab
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From: San Antonio, TX
I would use a sealant no matter what. I have cork gaskets on mine with sealant and there are no leaks.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 06:50 PM
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FalconStng
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Most people today recommend the rubber ones. I'm kinda old school myself and I just keep on using the cork ones. Never really had a problem with them. I always clean all gaskets surfaces, use something like acetone or carb cleaner as a final wipe down to remove any residue, and then use a sealer on both sides.

Good Luck!

Tracy
 
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 07:16 PM
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Make sure first of all that the sealing gasket surfaces of the valve covers are straight and flat.
I have used both cork and rubber over the years, and prefer rubber over the long haul, but cork have served me well with this process:

1. Ensure the gasket mating surfaces are flat, straight and clean.
2. Use a thin layer of RTV sealant on the valve cover, and press the gasket in place.
3. Make sure the holes in the gasket and the cover match up.
4. Let dry overnight, if possible. This prevents the gasket from moving out of place when the bolts are tightened down.
5. Install the valve covers. Do not use sealant between the gasket and the head; it is easier to remove it from the valve cover than from the head.

Tighten the bolts down hand tight, using a socket and extension. I have found that I usually need to tighten them 1/2 turn to prevent seepage, but I wait until it is necessary to tighten them.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2006 | 12:49 AM
  #5  
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I've used cork before. The first time I ever did the gaskets I thought it would be a good idea to use sealant on both surfaces.(stupid,stupid, stupid) When I went to tighten up the bolts, the gasket ripped on the inside where I could'nt see & the 1st time I took it the for a ride I went to a fast food drive thru and to the bank. When I shut it off in the bank parking lot I looked under the wheel well & I had oil dripping out & burning. I had to use my super-sized Pepsi to put it out. So like Banjo said sealant on valve cover only. LOL Live & learn.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2006 | 01:09 AM
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I do like banjopicker above but use a little grease on the head side of the gasket to help it release and 3M weatherstrip adhesive or spray adhesive on the cover side.

About half of the failures are due to over tightening the bolts and the other half are due to deformed valve cover flanges. The few remaining failures are due to improper cleanup.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2006 | 06:41 AM
  #7  
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valve cover gaskets

What do people recomend for valve cover gaskets,Cork or rubber?If rubber should I use some kind of sealant?
 
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Old Aug 27, 2006 | 11:56 AM
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From: Whitehorse Yukon
Rubber felpro here, i use weatherstrip adhesive to glue mine to the covers, Anything chrome is hard to seal, i have moroso tall chrome covers at least until the budget allows for a set of ford racing aluminum ones.

Hope this helps
 
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Old Sep 7, 2006 | 10:59 PM
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Rubber gaskets and Permatex Super High-Tack.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2006 | 11:18 PM
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i use rubber with no sealant.maybe some adhesive if the gaskets don't have the tabs to hold them to the cover.use load spreaders under the bolts ,this helps so the cover doesn't get puckered around the bolt hole so bad.i've re-used the same rubber gaskets for quite a while,solid roller cam,so have to adjust and or check lash occasionally and the gaskets are still good.don't think cork would hold up as well in my application.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 01:21 AM
  #11  
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When I ran solids on my 390 I ran rubber for several years. I also had a pair of cut down valve covers to put on for adjusting the valves while the engine was running. The lip on the covers kept oil from running all over. The cutoffs used rubber and the adhesive kept the gasket on the covers when not in use. That car had to be tuned up every 30 days or so with new plugs etc. 12.5:1 9000RPM and 500HP seemed to eat plugs.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 10:27 AM
  #12  
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i adjust mine hot but not with it running.it only takes me about a half hour start to finish and wouldn't be that bad if not for the brake booster.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 05:37 AM
  #13  
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From: Washington state
rubber used here if avail for application but cork is fine in easy to access or out of veh builds where covers do not have to be removed for adjustments often

lightly roughen the gaskets surface on chrome valve covers or polished aluminum with a dremel or light grinder for added seal grip...also works on those slippery as snot chromed front timing chain covers....no more slipped gasket leaks....also aftermarket oil pans with flat sealing surfaces to grab and hold in gasket

i like the Permatex liquid in a can gasket sealers/adhesives on both rubber and cork....just plain old heavy moly wheel bearing sticky grease works well on cork to hold in place without movement, seals well also
 

Last edited by 96_4wdr; Sep 12, 2006 at 05:41 AM.
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 01:02 PM
  #14  
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petes79f150
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From: Kiefer, Northeastern Okla
I'm using the rubber with steel core, fabricated aluminum covers with billet rails on my 347. Just a light spray of white lithium grease on both sides of the gasket to get it "wet". Studs help hold the gasket in place, rather than bolts. Same thing on my oil pan. Speaking of which, I found some billet aluminum rails that keep the pan rails from warping, and spread the load evenly- another idea I wish I woulda come up with....

Pete
 
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 06:54 PM
  #15  
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From: Erie PA
Fel-Pro PermaDry, rubber over steel. The best VC gaskets I ever used...
 
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