Hi folks,
My starter doesn't engage right. First thing to mind when I got the truck was a solenoid, so I replaced it. It seemed to have got better for a day or two, but started acting up again. At the same time, I thought the problem may be a stretched ignition switch actuator (which turned out to be the mounting nuts worked loose and the switch slipped). Anyway....... Same story. Used to be it would slip now and then, now it engages now and then.
Thing that makes me wonder, is that when I try to start and it doesn't engage, I know about when it will engage because I get (hear) a little "bump" when the starter stops spinning and it mostly starts on the next try.

I know it's possible to get a bad solenoid.... Think that's my problem? Or could it be the starter itself??
Is there a trick to figure it out??

it's a 1990 F250 5.8 L

Thanks, Dave

 

have that starter tested and get a new starter if it fails test.

 

Thanks.... Probably noy a test I can do myself???????????? I wouldn't know where to take it here. Even if I did, it'd cost more than a new starter....

Is it likely that the starter is bad????

Thanks again,


Dave

 

you do not have auto parts stores in germany?

 

For German cars..........
garages equipment is for German cars also. There is always one or two that "specialize" on American vehicles, but I try to stay away from them. if I need parts, I order online.

 

Well, I hate throwing parts at a truck if you havent pinpointed the problem. But in your case, it would probably just be cheaper to buy a new starter, as it is probably your problem. As they arent expensive.

 

Hmm, sounds like fun having some good 'ol American heavy metal to cruise the autobahn with. But, it would be better at doing that if it started up, I admit.

It's quite possible there's a dead winding in the starter. It happens, especially if the starter's ever been stalled with a weak battery. The starters on these trucks are not large electric motors. They're very high speed motors, and the torque for turning over the engine comes from reduction planetary gearing. A weak battery may not have enough 'juice' to turn over an engine with decent compression, and it doesn't take long to roast a winding in the armature of the starter motor. Burn out one winding, as long as the starter doesn't stop on that winding, you might or might not notice it. Stop it with the brushes on that winding, it won't budge (open circuit).

Dunno how many miles/kilometers yours has on it, but I replaced my starter at about 128,000 miles. It wasn't dead, but was definitely sluggish and indicating it was in very poor health. I took it apart before I purchased the new one, and it was pretty much crudded up with clutch dust as well as carbon dust from the brushes. It had done it's job, A LOT OF TIMES. Also note, there are actually two relays involved here. One is the starter relay mounted on the fender well right behind the battery. This one actually just applies power to the coil lead of the actual solenoid on the starter, but is also very often confused as being 'the' solenoid. The solenoid, which is actually mounted on the starter, has another separate (heavy gauge, 2/0) wire straight from the battery, and has VERY large contacts inside it. Sometimes, those contacts will corrode, burn, or pit to the point of making poor contact. This can cause a severe voltage drop, and make the starter weak, again, possibly causing a winding to burn out.

To make a long story much shorter, if the truck's got over 100K Miles, or 160K Km, do yourself a favor, and go ahead and replace the starter. They're not nearly as expensive as getting stuck somewhere when it refuses to work. But, check the starter relay on the fender well too. Make sure this isn't the culprit. Check the coil lead on the relay when you turn the switch, and see if you're getting battery voltage to the coil. IF so, make sure it's picking up by testing for battery voltage on the smaller red wire going to the starter solenoid.

Now, there's another possibility here. Bit me on the butt, real hard. If it's still got the factory battery clamp, which has two 2/0 cables coming out of one lead clamp, check the cables by using a probe to pierce through the insulation near the clamp and make sure you have battery voltage present on both large cables. Just because you have it on one, will NOT mean you have it on the other. The one going directly to my starter failed inside the clamp. A $2.00 clamp had me replacing a battery and the starter for that matter. Starter needed it anyway, but I'm sure now the battery was just fine even though it didn't pass a test at a local parts house. Make sure to test it while someone else is trying to start the truck, to see if it's actually breaking down under load. You can usually hear the starter relay on the fender click when this happens, though.

 

German Battery's don't have the cranking amps that American Batteries do, and are set up for alternators that don't put out as much amperage (German batteries don't last long in American cars and vice versa). There was a German battery in it when I got it (that was dead) and would die off if the lights would be left on for an hour. I replaced it with the Energizer that was recommended for this vehicle and it goes real good (when the starter engages). It's never a question of if it will start, just when.
As far as driving on the autobahn goes, people aren't as quick to cut you off as when you drive a VW, but it's a real pain maneuvering and parking in town with this thing. Gotta love it though.......... It's only got 60k miles on it, but rode over here on a ship and spent it's life on short trips and a lot of time parked on a lot somewhere. I guess a new starter is due. We'll see what happens.

Thanks, Dave

 

The online parts stores have a variety of starters from $43 (OE quality)-$135 (super duper) + core. Any suggestions?

Thanks

 

you get what you pay for.

do not get the cheapest one.

try to get a lifetime warranty.

bosch rebuilds are good if they have them.

 

Any idea what the Bosch PN would be??? I'm in Bosch country (5 miles from where starters are made) but didn't know there was a cross reference.

Thanks again,

Dave

 

okay, i do not know if you have auto or stick so i will give you both.

try #F5000-92177 for auto bosch starter

try #F5000-134513 for stick bosch starter

they list at $67.22

hope this helps

 

Thanks!!!!!!

 

Gotta love it!!!!! I went to the sales section at the local Bosch factory.... The part# above tells them nothing, so they asked what it was for... Told them, and was told that they didn't have anything for a US Ford and I'd have to go to the dealer. I was parked next to the Ford dealer anyway, so checked in there. A Bosch starter (different PN) is 237 euro ($296 +/-) and would have to be ordered from The States. Both places will test my starter though, so not a total loss...

Just thought I'd share that........

Dave

 

Back again folks.. I put a starter in it and it worked like a charm. now comes the however...
The other day I was on the autobahn and there was a wreck that caused a jam. I was on the far left lane when I was stopped for a while. I shut it off several times while waiting. When things started to move, I started up and, after I drove a few seconds, the starter engaged again (while the engine was running). Needless to say, I couldn't get out to work on it then, and by the time I was able to get across 2 lanes of hardheaded drivers to the shoulder, the starter was shot. I got it home and put the old starter back in but I just get a click (even when jumping with another vehicle). When I jump the to lugs on the solenoid, nothing happens. Any idea what could have went wrong? For the sake of time, I ordered a starter, solenoid, and ignition switch, but if someone could point me in the right direction, I may be able to send something back.

Thanks, Dave