I made a distributor oopsies
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 400
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From: SoCal
I made a distributor oopsies
On my 302, I wanted to get some paint on the intake manifold, so i removed the distributor. Unfortunately, my father wanted to see how smooth the operation of the distributor is...Now i have a distributor thats all outta wack. Does anyone know how i could get it back to normal? I did have the idea of rotating the center part until its at the location of cylinder 1 (luckily the cords are marked) and look at the harmonic balancer and get a big 'ole wrench and spin the engine until its 6* after (or before, I dont remember off the top of my head) TDC. Does this make the most sense or is there a better way?
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,497
Likes: 5
From: Tucson AZ
set the crank to zero, put a 12v test light into the dist in the #1 hole, turn the ignition key to run position and turn the distributor until the light comes on. A trick I have always used is to bump the engine around until the rotor points directly at the firewall. do this BEFORE you take the dist out and you don't have to guess where to put it back in. good luck
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by fatfenders56
set the crank to zero, put a 12v test light into the dist in the #1 hole, turn the ignition key to run position and turn the distributor until the light comes on. A trick I have always used is to bump the engine around until the rotor points directly at the firewall. do this BEFORE you take the dist out and you don't have to guess where to put it back in. good luck
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 201
Likes: 3
From: Churchville, VA
I don't think spinning the rotor while the distributor is out of the engine would have hurt a thing. If you noted its position before removal, just put it back in that position. Now, if some had bumped the engine over, then it would be more difficult.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 813
Likes: 5
From: Meade, KS
A Different Way:
Pull plug # one. Rotate the motor (use starter or wrench on crank) to put piston #1 at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke (to test, plug the hole with your thumb. When the piston pushes air against your thumb you're on the compression stroke). Also, you can use a long screw driver in the plug hole to feel when the piston is at the absolute top (be careful not to put pressure on the driver. You might marr the piston head or cylindar wall).
Now orient the rotor to point at the #1 contact on the cylindar cap, and ease her on down into place. Now you're within the ball park, and just need to do regular timing!
Good luck!
Contact me if you have any questions. I'll see what I can do to help.
Pull plug # one. Rotate the motor (use starter or wrench on crank) to put piston #1 at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke (to test, plug the hole with your thumb. When the piston pushes air against your thumb you're on the compression stroke). Also, you can use a long screw driver in the plug hole to feel when the piston is at the absolute top (be careful not to put pressure on the driver. You might marr the piston head or cylindar wall).
Now orient the rotor to point at the #1 contact on the cylindar cap, and ease her on down into place. Now you're within the ball park, and just need to do regular timing!
Good luck!
Contact me if you have any questions. I'll see what I can do to help.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,776
Likes: 553
From: Kalispell, MT
Think of it as a good way to learn timing issues 
Also, it's a Dad's way of getting even for all those time you were a pain in the butt growing up - revenge (even accidental) is sweet!
I do mine the way blue50 described for you. In the future, keep a marking paint pen or bottle of white-out correction fluid handy and before you pull anything mark the distributor body and intake manifold at some common point and the rotor location on the dist rim. Sure helps get things back close to where they belong.
Also, it's a Dad's way of getting even for all those time you were a pain in the butt growing up - revenge (even accidental) is sweet!
I do mine the way blue50 described for you. In the future, keep a marking paint pen or bottle of white-out correction fluid handy and before you pull anything mark the distributor body and intake manifold at some common point and the rotor location on the dist rim. Sure helps get things back close to where they belong.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
It could have been worse. The last time I removed a Ford distributor, the oil pump rod fell into the pan and I had to remove the pan to retrieve it. 
Vern
Vern
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Senior User
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by Blue50F-1
A Different Way:
Pull plug # one. Rotate the motor (use starter or wrench on crank) to put piston #1 at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke (to test, plug the hole with your thumb. When the piston pushes air against your thumb you're on the compression stroke). Also, you can use a long screw driver in the plug hole to feel when the piston is at the absolute top (be careful not to put pressure on the driver. You might marr the piston head or cylindar wall).
Now orient the rotor to point at the #1 contact on the cylindar cap, and ease her on down into place. Now you're within the ball park, and just need to do regular timing!
Good luck!
Contact me if you have any questions. I'll see what I can do to help.
Pull plug # one. Rotate the motor (use starter or wrench on crank) to put piston #1 at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke (to test, plug the hole with your thumb. When the piston pushes air against your thumb you're on the compression stroke). Also, you can use a long screw driver in the plug hole to feel when the piston is at the absolute top (be careful not to put pressure on the driver. You might marr the piston head or cylindar wall).
Now orient the rotor to point at the #1 contact on the cylindar cap, and ease her on down into place. Now you're within the ball park, and just need to do regular timing!
Good luck!
Contact me if you have any questions. I'll see what I can do to help.
I really appreciate the help! This is similar to my idea, but makes more sense!
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by 1Digger
I don't think spinning the rotor while the distributor is out of the engine would have hurt a thing. If you noted its position before removal, just put it back in that position. Now, if some had bumped the engine over, then it would be more difficult.
Hehehehe just kidding
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Realize the rotor will turn a small amount when the gears mesh, so you may need to pull it back out and move it a tooth over to get it at the right point when it's seated. I don't even bother to mark it or anything when I pull a distributor, I just follow the same procedure to reset it when I put it back. Leave the holdown a little loose so you can wiggle it back and forth a little bit while someone is turning it over to get it to start and stay running so you can reset the timing. Timing is set with the vaccuum advance line disconnected and plugged at the carb.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
Originally Posted by TheSovereign53
Im a bit of a newbie when it comes to cars, but I dont think I have a vacuum advance line on my distributor, does this make any sense, or am I just crazy? Vern