Ok, there are a couple of large rubber bushings on each side at these two points. I have a tear in one that is allowing the rubber insulator to be squeezed out a bit. I checked the F100 manual and they had nothing on replacing this particular piece. In fact the section on the front suspension is pretty minimal in my opinion. So the question is how hard is this to do and if not how does one do it on a '65?

 

I remove the radius arms and I-Beams as an assembly and do all my work on the bench. Good opportunity to replace the King pins at the same time. This is an easy job. It just takes quite a bit of time and a trip to the machine shop to have the pins pressed out. I also have the shop squeeze out the old I-Beam pivot bushings and press in the new ones. Clean, paint and reassemble all the parts. Raise the truck and support the front on jack stands. Remove the brake calipers and hang them on wire out of the way. Remove the spring retainer clip at the top and allow the springs to tilt out of the way. Using your pickle fork pop the tie rod and steering link at the spindle. Unbolt the radius arm at the frame. Unbolt the I-Beam at the pivot and pull the assembly (I-Beam, spring, spindle and radius arm) out from under the truck. Separate the radius arm from the I-Beam and spring, (1/2 inch drive deep well socket and I forget what size). Take the I-Beam and spindle to the machine shop for removal of the old king pin and bushings. The shop will install and ream the new bushings, shims, king pins and pivot bushings. Reassemble.

 

You can still get those rubber bushings from your local Ford dealer. We stock them where I work as they fit Econoline vans and go bad all the time. Part numbers are C5TZ 3B203-D and C5TZ 3B203-E, they come in a package of 2 each. Current price is $7.22 each. THey can order them and have them next day. Thier facing depot will stock them.

Barry

 

Thanks, I printed it all out as it sounds fairly easy to drop. Now has anyone had any experience with polyurethane bushings versus rubber especially after the last comment that they are prone to tearing?

 

I prefer the polyurethane because they are impervious to oil and resist heat better than the rubber. Plus there is less deflection. I use them exclusively in all my Fords. Rather than drop the whole assembly, I just chisel the rivets off the bracket, change the bushings, then reattach the bracket using Grade 8 hardware. Much easier if you are just replacing radius arm bushings.

Jeff
2005 Excursion 4X4 Limited 6.0
1976 F250 Crew Cab 4X4 360, 4-speed
1971 F100 SportCustom Explorer 360, auto
1962 F100 Unibody 262 inliner, 4-speed