Wont start
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 60
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Wont start
I have 64 223. I had it running last monday for the first time after doing some minor work to the engine. It ran great. I put my new exhaust on today and now it wont run.. It will seem like its gonna start when i'm starting it. but once i let go of the key, it stops... What could be wrong?
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 87
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From: Marietta, GA USA
Wont start
Sounds like a restriction in the exhaust system that won't let the engine start especially since it worked fine before. Try loosening the exhaust where the tail pipes meet the header (or exhaust manifold and see if it will start. Other possibility would be if you hit the metal fuel line under the cab installing the exhaust and closed it off. You can check that by looking to see if the accelerator pump on the carborator is pumping fuel after you try and start it.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Wont start
i tried that..still dont work. its getting fuel too.. it basically starts when the starter is turning it, but when i let go of the key it dies.. I now believe its the ignition switch..
Travis
Travis
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 692
Likes: 0
Wont start
Does it have a ballast resistor?? That may
be bad, as it should have a bypass wire for
starting...
Steve & the Rockette
'63 F100
'68 F100
'72 Capri 2L
'73 Capri 2.6L V6
'73 MG B GT 2.6L V6(Ford)
'98 Contour SVT 2.5L V6 (Mods)
'01 ZX2 (No Mods yet)
be bad, as it should have a bypass wire for
starting...
Steve & the Rockette
'63 F100
'68 F100
'72 Capri 2L
'73 Capri 2.6L V6
'73 MG B GT 2.6L V6(Ford)
'98 Contour SVT 2.5L V6 (Mods)
'01 ZX2 (No Mods yet)
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,613
Likes: 6
From: Coal country
Wont start
It sounds as though the 12v/6v electrical supply to the ignition system is broken. When you start the engine, the key (switch behind the key, actually) sends a full 12 volts to the points in the distributor. After you release the key from Start to Run, a different circuit takes over to supply less than 12 volts, usually 6 volts, to the points. (A constant 12v current would quickly burn out the points. 12v is used while starting to increase the spark quality during the starter's drain on the battery.)
Test your Run circuit with the key on Run. You should be getting voltage, at least 6v to the points. Check it with the distributor cap off, where the wire clips to the points. If you are not getting at least 6v, trace the wiring back to find the cause. The previous post mentioned the ballast, whichis a resisitor used to reduce the current from 12v to 6v. Check both sides of it, as it is a commmon cause of failure. A multimeter is really needed for this, but you could get by with a light.
If you ARE getting 6v at the points, , then check for shorts in the wire somewhere, your condenser and your coil. Good luck!
Test your Run circuit with the key on Run. You should be getting voltage, at least 6v to the points. Check it with the distributor cap off, where the wire clips to the points. If you are not getting at least 6v, trace the wiring back to find the cause. The previous post mentioned the ballast, whichis a resisitor used to reduce the current from 12v to 6v. Check both sides of it, as it is a commmon cause of failure. A multimeter is really needed for this, but you could get by with a light.
If you ARE getting 6v at the points, , then check for shorts in the wire somewhere, your condenser and your coil. Good luck!
