Clutch replacement tips
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 516
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From: La Crosse, WI
Clutch replacement tips
Hi guys, I just purchased a 1978 F-150 4x4 300ci 4spd/np205. It only has 65,000 original miles and I think it has the original clutch because it slips if you floor it in 4th gear. So I went ahead and purchased a new centerforce II for it. My question is, when you replace the clutch in a 4x4 (only have experience in 2wd trucks/cars) do you pull off the xfer case and then pull the tranny or is it best to do them as one piece?
Also, I am used to replacing the pilot bushing/throwout bearing when I do a clutch, but...there was no pilot bushing available for the straight six that I could find @ summit when i purchased the centerfoce clutch/throwout bearing. Does the 300ci have a pilot bearing?
Any other tips you can offer me would be greatly appreciated if there are any tricks or easy ways of doing this. Again, I have changed many clutches I am just looking to get some insight into the 4x4 before I start. Thanks!!
Also, I am used to replacing the pilot bushing/throwout bearing when I do a clutch, but...there was no pilot bushing available for the straight six that I could find @ summit when i purchased the centerfoce clutch/throwout bearing. Does the 300ci have a pilot bearing?
Any other tips you can offer me would be greatly appreciated if there are any tricks or easy ways of doing this. Again, I have changed many clutches I am just looking to get some insight into the 4x4 before I start. Thanks!!
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 295
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From: Collierville
I would check the front bearing and seal on the transmission while it was out. Cheap parts and very easy to replace at that point. Also look at the rear engine seal - same reason. I have never worked on a 4x4 either but I took the 4 spd out of my 66 mustang enough that I got it down to about 1 hour out and in. Each time was for 1 clutch, 2 engine seal - and clutch because the oil had caked the new clutch, 3 transmission front bearing. I now subscribe to the idea that you replace anything that wears when you are that far in.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2004
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The 300 six should have either a bushing or bearing. My 95 had a bearing, and I have seen a bearing upgrade for those 300's that had bushing instead of the bearing. It depends if you want to muscle the tranny and t-case at the same time or not. It is lighter and a little easier to deal with if you seperate the two, but if you get a couple buddies and are patient you can do it all at once. The upside to seperating them is that you can check/replace the seals as needed.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: South Carolina
Here's my favorite transmission trick: cut the heads off of two 7/16 x 6" coarse thread bolts, and thread them into the engine for alignment pins. Then, instead of trying to line up the input shaft, you can "hang" the front of the transmission on the alignment pins, and use both hands to line up the rear of the trans. I prefer to use the pins in the two lowest holes, opposite each other. You'll never believe what a difference this makes if you're working on your own. I put my M5R2 back in with only a plain floorjack. It works!
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 516
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From: La Crosse, WI
Thannks for the tips guys!! I especially like your tip Cheggie! I have always struggled with getting the tranny in, never seems to go in easy, I bet that will really help a lot!! I need to find a bushing/bearing, I'll call up the parts counter and see if they have anything for my truck. Rboeding thanks for the advice, I will purchase those seals so I don't have any leaks. I think that I am going to do the rear main and valve cover too, things are a little wet back there.
