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Are you planning on filtering the entire engine oil flow? If so get a bracket to replace the existing oil filter that has the hose connections for a remote mount filter. Often the marine diesels use remote mounted oil filters as the factory oil filter location is not accessible in boats.
I must say so I have never heard of anybody install addtional oil filters.
If you want you can buy a longer filter cartridge that will fit the 6.9l that was used on the early 7.3l PSD motors. This will significantly increase your filter capacity. These was a post on this site within the last month with the filter numbers you would need.
Seb.....
actually i planned on leaving the stock filter in place. this thing is a low flow 1/2 micron filter. im leaving the stock oil filter in place because this thing only has about a 1/2 gph. suposed to add a LOT to engine life and you should not have to change the oil exept for what goes out with the filters. its a cool setup and way overkill for my truck but i got ahold of one so i thought it would be fun. its a gulf coast filter unit if anybody is curiouse.
For 1/2 gallon per hour all you need is a 1/8" port like the one the oil pressure sending unit is in.
Or the spare 1/8" plug on the block above the engine oil cooler which all tap into the engine oil galleries.
I am not sure how the extra filter is going to extend your engine oil life.
Typically engine oil should be changed on a 3,000 to 5,000 mile interval depending of serverity of service. I always change my oil and filter at 3,000. Oil and filters are cheap if you compare it to a +$5,000 price tag for rebuilding a motor.
it filters down to 1/2 micron while the filter in the engine is 10-15 at best it filters out all the soot and VERY small particles that wear down the engine. so with all the crap filtered out of the oil its good again. they use em on the bit diesel 18 wheelers. pepsi has one that went 1,000,000 miles on the same oil exepct what was lost in the filter change and they added more to make up for it. its a big filter hold about a gallon of oil by itself.
How does this system handle thermal breakdown of the engine oil? One of the main reasons for changing oil (other than dirt accumulation) is that any oil over time will break down and loose its viscosity. The big argument with synthetic oils is that they can handle the heat better than the dino oils so they would last a little longer.
If you used synthetic oil I guess adding one of these filters is probably not a bad idea to get the extra life out of the oil you paid a premium for.
i had understood that it was the aditives and detergents that got used up in the oil. the oil should not break down just get poluted with engine crap. the additives in the oil besides the detergetns were to help the oil hold dirt in suspension until an oil change.
now im not trying to be a know all or anything your the first person that has said anything about that to me and i havnt found much on actual oil breakdown exept for just burning it. i'll have to go and see what i can find on it. if im wrong, oh well good info is always best.
well i looked about and it took me a while to find somebody that wasnt tryign to sell something, and i will have to change how i was going to do it slightly. going to use synthetic eventually and get a good oil cooler. so oil changes and at least i will have a well filtered engine thanks for bringing that up i check my engines regularly but good to know about things to look for.
I run a Fleetguard LF 3630 oil filter which is a two quart filter.
I use Mobil Synthetic or 1300 series regular oil.
I still change my oil at 3000 miles no matter which oil I am running.
I also used to drive over the road trucks with lubrifiners which are very large remote mounted small micron filters. We changed the oil every 8000 miles, all 18 gallons of it.
Viscosity does break down, additives do get depleted, the oil does get contaminated with fuel, soot and condensation. Why keep all that garbage in you engines blood?
This is the case where these filters work very well in the medium speed diesels as used in heavy duty trucks. They have what - 400 to 500 hp from about 12 to 14 liters. The trucks are also equipped with rather large oil coolers and pyros right from the factory. This keeps the oil temps much more in line with what the oil is capable of handling.
Take one of the smaller higher speed diesels, say a 7.3 with the IP turned up, no pyro (after all, who needs one of those?) and a lesser trained driver with his or her foot in in all the way up the mountain, then you will get the oil hot enough to break down the base stocks.
So, keep the IP turned down, watch your oil and engine temps and you should never wear out the base oil stocks. The additives will have to be replentished at regular intervals though.
Normal exhaust pyro temp should be 900 or so flat level, 1200 or so short term hill climbing. Any more and you will reduce your engine and oil life.
I run after market mechanical oil pressure and water temp gauges.
I also have a boost gauge, a pyrometer and an engine oil temp gauge in my truck.
I just spent 4500 dollars rebuilding my engine, and that was only for machine shop work and parts. I did all the labor myself as far as removal, tear down, assembly and reinstall.
I can tell you exactly how hot the engine oil is at any given moment, I can tell you exactly how hot the EGT's are and what the water temp is.
I don't care if it has 75 dollars worth of synthetic oil or 36 dollars worth of dino oil, it still gets changed at 3000 miles. If I would have had that engine built in a shop it would have cost me about 8000 dollars plus install and removal. Changing my oil at 3000 miles using synthetic oil at 75 dollar per change it will take me 106 oil changes or 320,000 miles to equal the cost of that engine at 8000 dollars.