When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Auto shop wants $1,100 to replace the ball joints in my 96 F150 4X4. Thinking of doing it myself. Anyone know just how much, if at all, of a pain this is? Seems worth the try even after the price for the special tools and parts. Also, what's a sure fire way to tell if they're bad?
Thanks!
Jack your front end up and wiggle tires. Look at your truck straight on. if your tires are sitting like /--\ at all, prolly ball joints.
Do a search on ball joints, theres been a few threads recently. You have to take the axle out to get at them. Might be a good idea to replace wheel bearings, seals, axle u joints etc
not hard at all in my opinion !!!!!! if u have a autozone u can rent all tools to do job with deposit!!! i bought a ball joint press at harbor freight 4 30.00 and a slide hammer for 20 and joints were around 130.00 takes bout 2 hrs per side so in a afternoonu can save about 600.00 but if u dont know what u r doing id buy a manual but still hardest part in my situation was getin the spindle off cause i had to go tool shopping once i had tools was no prob
I did mine this past spring. It's a lot of work but no problem with the right tools. It took me all afternoon to do a side, but I was replacing rotors and found a bad u-joint on a side axle, so that required an extra trip out for parts.
If the vehicle can be off the road in case you get stuck I would buy the tools and save the money. First time is a learning experience and will take longer than normal. As other post said you can do one side and the other another day. Second time you will have the tools and will not take near as long as the first and save more money. A manual helps if you are not familar with the procedures. Replace upper and lowers at the same time.
To do ball Joints:
Note: I'm not 100% sure on the socket sizes, but that's in the ballpark. The replacement joints had slightly smaller nuts.
Chiltons shop manual - manditory.
Torque wrench
allen key - hub bolts
c-clip tool - alxe retainer clip
small flat tip screwdriver - hub locking mechanism retainer
rubber mallet
Wheel bearing socket - special tool
Large hammer
Large punch
1/2" ratchet and 14mm socket - inner wheel bearing hub
3/4" drive ratchet or 500lb ft pnumatic impact gun
1-3/8" impact socket - upper ball joint
1-1/8 impact socket - lower ball joint
joint fork - steering rod end and ball joints if necesary
Ball joint press - special tool
Large bench vise
large flat tip screwdriver
wire brush and some sand paper.
To do U-joints:
Flat tip screwdriver.
Hammer
Various size sockets and Bench vise or U-joint press
If the wheel bearings are smooth don't bother. The inner bearing may fall out when you remove the hub/rotor assembly, so be careful. Wrap everything in rags or bags to keep dirt off. There is a precedure and torque setting for the wheel bearing in the shop manual, it's easy to overtighten so be aware. Also, the bearing retainer nut has a small pin in it to engage the locking ring... small disk with holes in it, so there is an inside and an outside. And then there is a locking nut that will take a higher torque setting. Take notice of how these 3 pieces go together. The manual has a good section in it for all this.
well depends how they look!!!tool run took longer than tear down
1 lug wrench to remove tires
2 flat blade screwdriver to pop brake pins
3pull brakes
4 remove spindle nut with 4wd socket 10.00
5 remove lockout! on mine its a flange deal so guess types vary
6 remove hub
7 remove 6 bolts in brake dust cover witch holds spindle??? thats what i call it
8 using spindle puller and a slide hammer to pull spindle 25.00 to rent socket and i paid 20.oo 4 slide
9 on mine i did not remove axle shaft i used a 1+inch wrench to remove upper and lower ball joint nuts
10 spanish tool fork between rubber boot and spindle housing and a bfhfew hits and droped right out but gotta watch 4 upper adjustment sleeve i read these pop out i just marked it with yellow paint markerso i could reinstall in same position
11 using ball joint press after removing clip pushing them out and if i remember right u have to put bottom on first when reassembling because if u do top first u cant put bottom in without removing
REVERSE TO ASSEMBLE
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.