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I recently bought new wing window weatherstripping for my '65 f100 to reduce some of the air leaks (irritating as hell on the freeway.) I took off the driver's side door panel to examine the situation and I see no way of replacing the weatherstripping without completely removing the wing window. It appears that this can only be accomplished by removing the other window first, which would be a major hassle. Am I missing something? Any help is greatly appreciated.
These are the biggest pain in the butt on any rig to replace... Replacing the forward piece which runs down to the bottom and has hole in it for pivot to go thru....Pulling the door glass out of track and putting rear of door, loosen 2(as i recall) nuts connecting div. bar to vent w/strip/glass assy so vent framework can be pulled. on the forward part of upper door is 3 phillips screws which hold the frame assy. to door itself....there are also 2 on top of door I think secure div. bar end in place. If fuzzys are wasted, pop them out to allow div. bar to slide to rear. away from vent assy. Then slide vent assy to rear out of its slot noting the way the lower flaps of w/strip are on your door...some are inside door, others are outside exposed. the vent frame and glass assy comes out as one(keeps unit from getting tweaked during R&R) once out, take off nut and spring and washers from vent glass frame lower pivot and remove glass upr pivot from hole and remove glass. the rubber is a molded extrusion with grooves for retaining in vent frame....soap it up good when installing. the rear vent glass w/strip is part of div. bar assy.
Trevor, This sounds like a huge project but it really isn't. And you can use this opportunity to lube the vent window pivot before it breaks off. And if I may suggest, buy the division bar and window channel kit from one of the after market suppliers on this site. The hardest part about this project is getting the screws and door and window handles off. I use WD-40, patience and a couple of wood shims. I remove the retainer screw and tap the wedges in behind the handle and apply lots of WD-40. Start on the other side of the truck and let the first side soak. Get a big Philips screwdriver and a butane torch. Try all the screws and those that are stuck, heat em' up and hit the screw driver with a mallet to shock the screws and remove them. I lube all the screws and put them back in. Then when I am REALLY ready for this project all the hard work is already done. Expect to find damaged or stripped splines on the window regulator and door latch and or the handles. Some idiot used JB weld to hold on the last pair I had to remove. I needed new regulators and handles. Also plan on replacing the vinyl trim on the door, it will most likely fall apart as you remove it. Replacements are available for about 50 bucks a set if you paint them yourself. I completely strip the door mechanicals. Remove every screw except the door hinge bolts, inspect, paint, repair and lubricate all the latches and window regulator. Replace the division bar, vent window gasket and window channel. Spread the channel with your thumb before you pop it in (saves a wavy looking installation). Shape the window channel with the door glass before you pop it in and use a wooden paddle to set the fasteners. Replace the window roller and clip. Rust proof the inside of the door with OSPHO and paint it. This project takes about 8 hours and a six pack per door. No compromises do it right the first time and drive your truck everyday. Man I love this stuff!
William in Atlanta
In addition to the excellent advice above, put masking tape on the areas of the door that you might scratch. Incidentally, I used Dennis Carpenter replacements and they fit very poorly, despite many attempts at adjustment.If I ever do this job again, I will pay the extra and get NOS rubbers.
Eric D