Hey guys, a buddy of mine is bringine over his Ranger for service. It looks to be a '97 or thereabouts, and has the v6 in it. I've gotta pull the compressor, dryer and replace all the seals. Any tips, tricks, or other knowedge that would help me out with this one? I've done some a/c work, just never on this type of truck.

Much abliged

 

I suppose a nice diagram of the system wouldn't hurt, for starters:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...40&postcount=2

As for tips regarding the actual work involved, I'll leave that to some others who have more knowledge and experience working with A/C systems.

Best I can do is offer you this link: http://www.e38.org/pparish/tips.htm

 

More info needed; is this thing suffering from black death?

 

It's pretty cut and dry stuff... nothing difficult.. just make sure you have a quick-disconnect tool for the lines.

Also replace the springs in the couplings while they're apart. Make sure you pull the oriface tube and make sure it's not all plugged up.

Also make sure you use a motorized vacuum pump and pull at least 26" of vacuum on the A/C system for a good 30-45 minutes before charging, especially if it's humid at all that day, to make sure all the moisture boils out of the system.

And last, but not least, if you're planning on re-using the old accumulator (I recommend a new one but I understand budget constraints) make sure you seal up its lines upon removal to prevent excessive moisture buildup inside (and remove your seals just before reinstallation)

good luck!

 

I just remembered. Duh.
Nylog.
It is a syrupy-honey like fluid that you can use to improve the O-ring sealing in snap-lock connections. ackits.com or aircondition.com both have links to sources. I think I might have gotten it from www.aapak.com
Think of STP for O-rings. This stuff will never fall off, and keeps the rings from vibrating around because of its elasticity. Ford should have used this from the get-go.
tom

 

cowboy, the thing's compressor is shot, that's all I know.

The guy bought a new compressor, dryer, and seals, so he wants them all in. I have no idea what actually happened to the compressor, and neither does he, as some mechanic told him it was blown. The air dosen't work, so I know something has to be wrong, but I didn't diagnose this one.

I'll get some of that sealent Tom, and thanks a bunch for the diagram Rockledge.

MAZDA: I don't have the disconnect tools for the lines, I've used wrenches before though, so do I really need them on this one?

I'm not gonna recharge. I had to convince my buddy that he didn't need to take it in to a shop to discharge the system. He's gonna have the shop recharge it, and that's fine with me as I have no vacuum pump and am a little skeptical of those little cans of freon. Thanks for the specs on that though.

definately gonna seal the lines as I pull 'em. I don't need any junk in them. I've used various methods for this with varying sucess, abybody have a good way to plug the lines while I'm workin' on stuff?

 

You will need the tools to disconnect the fittings. They use a garter spring to hold the lines together, which is displaced by the tool, allowing the lines to be separated. You can get a kit with half a dozen tools at Autozone for about $8. Looks expensive, but is sure worth it. I just used it to remove the tranny cooler lines when my radiator finally bit the big one after 19 years.. New rad came with fittings. Found out that you are not supposed to use a wrench to disconnect the cooler lines, as that may damage the O-ring that does the actual sealing. It did.
The condenser is probably full of aluminum and oil turned to an emulsion. The teflon on the compressor pistons wears off. And so the destruction begins as there is just not enough lube flow w/o teflon to keep the pistons from galling. This crud (black death) gets circulated w/ the refrigerant, and eventually blocks the condenser. You can clean it many times, but you most find it impossible to get out. You need to basically buy a new system. You may be able to get away with keeping the evap, but the accumulator, hi and low side lines, compressor and condenser need to be removed and recycled. Moolah.
If you replace all that stuff, the new will come with end caps. The evap should be plugged only to avoid dirt. It must be flushed out before re-assembly, or you will contaminate the new equipment. Some use brake clean, acetone, laquer thinner, paint thinner, a whole catalog of solvents. Whatever you use, make sure the solvent comes out clean by catching it in a clean white rag when you blow it out with air. If crud shows, flush again...
tom

 

thanks Tom, I didn't consider cleaning out the lines and such. I'll get on that when he brings it over. We're thinking this upcoming weekend. I sure hope it isn't as bad as you speak of, but if it is, I'll do the best I can with it.