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I was thinking of changing the rear differential oil on my recently purchased '04, F150, 4x4, 3.73 LS, w/ 68,000 miles, and just thought I'd check with everyone to find out if there were any unique things that has to be done. Some for instances:
use a regular Ford diff cover gasket, and/or some gaskest sealer such as Right Stuff, any particular tightening pattern, and torque setting - or is snug + 1/2 turn okay. Any particular brand of 70w-140 oil - I was thinking of synthetic (runs cooler & lasts longer) and because when terrestic oil breaks down it tends to "gum".
I plan to tow a 28' TT - not more than several times per month, and a 22' offshore boat, about the same.
I figure the guy who owned it before me didn't do much of anything fluid wise and since he put 68,000 miles on it within 2 years, a diff oil change & Tranny oil change would be a good thing to do, as well as giving me a starting point from which to keep track of the fluid changes.
thanks,
As I recall the oil in there from the factory is synthetic so I wouldn't think of replacing it with anything else. I would check with a reputable dealer in your area to see if it really needs replacement as I think it is good for 100k if there are no water intrusion issues.
Not sure what kind of hitch weight you will have with those tows; take a look at my gallery to see how easy it is to exceed the GVWR. Not saying that it will be over, just something to pay attention to. These trucks weigh right around 6000 pounds without any extra load.
I guess the other thing to consider is why you would change the rear diff and not the front as well. Seems to me the recommended change interval is the same.
Last edited by bigdavewilson; Aug 20, 2006 at 05:40 PM.
I totally agree with you on "exceeding the GVWR" as this is normally the first rating that most people will exceed. That "tow rating" is a bad "rating" to go by and to use in conversation.
As for the front diff, the transfer case is part time so it only engages when the 4x4 system is "turned on", so it doesn't have the same "Loaded" mileage as the rear diff does.
I totally agree with you on "exceeding the GVWR" as this is normally the first rating that most people will exceed. That "tow rating" is a bad "rating" to go by and to use in conversation.
As for the front diff, the transfer case is part time so it only engages when the 4x4 system is "turned on", so it doesn't have the same "Loaded" mileage as the rear diff does.
As you spend more time on this forum you will notice exactly what you are referring to, people saying "my truck is rated to tow 9000 pounds". They may do just fine until they get pulled over and checked and told that they are over on the GVWR (and that they aren't going anywhere until it is corrected). Many a holiday has been ruined in Western Canada by just such an occurence.
The rear diff shouldnt need changing if it has under 100,000 miles on it, Ford uses a high quality synthetic in there from the factory.
Even so, I changed mine out at 5000 miles anyway to AMSOIL, just for the hell of it. You will use regular RTV sealant to seal it back up. Ford does not show a bolt tightening pattern, but i usually just do every 4th bolt around in circles. Ford says to tighten to 33 ft/lbs
If you have a limited slip, be sure not to forget to add the friction modifier, or the LS unit will give you a hell of a time
Not sure what kind of hitch weight you will have with those tows; take a look at my gallery to see how easy it is to exceed the GVWR. Not saying that it will be over, just something to pay attention to. These trucks weigh right around 6000 pounds without any extra load.
I would just like to make alittle point here. your mixing up 2 different weight ratings. Here your talking about hitches and tows, aight this truck may very well have a tow rating of 9000lbs or GCVWR of somewhere around 14000 lbs. now this is truck,people in truck with gear, fuel, tools and what ever + trailer and what ever is on that trailer.
Now what you keep reminding us of is GVWR, thats just the truck and whats on it. making it a payload somewhere around 1600lbs-2600lbs depending on the truck. I've never heard anybody state they can haul 9000lbs in their truck. Here in Alabama you are good up to 8000lbs. It doesnt matter what Ford,Dodge,Chevy,Nissan, yada,yada,yada says. If you want to go over that you just buy a F1 tag. I'm sure that most places are the same and if you look on your tag receit you'll see 8000lbs. if you'll notice on this 1/2 trucks they'll say best "whatever" in its class, then to define class it'll be 8000lbs, rounded up to 10000lbs hence the 1/2ton. even though the highest GVWR that ford has right now in the 1/2 ton is 8200lbs, your over weight in Alabama on a regular tag.
speaking of the rear differential, mine was leaking, still under the extended warranty, and now I'm noticing a whiring sound from the rear. First thought it was the tires, but they have been rotated regularly and are wearing evenly. Could the whiring be coming from the rear differential if the dealership didn't put enough oil in it when they fixed the leak? I haven't found any leaks.
I totally agree with you on "exceeding the GVWR" as this is normally the first rating that most people will exceed. That "tow rating" is a bad "rating" to go by and to use in conversation.
As for the front diff, the transfer case is part time so it only engages when the 4x4 system is "turned on", so it doesn't have the same "Loaded" mileage as the rear diff does.
Really, i do see what your saying, but clearly we all know your not planning on putting your boats in the bed of your truck. So it was clear to most of us that you where towing and had our mind set for this conversation.
I think us that tows alot and yall that launch boat often changing the rear fluid is a good idea. for us tow'ers because of the workload we keep on the rearend, the boat lauchers well because of the water and backing up into it. i've watched some boat'ers get that rearend in the water pretty good. but of course i guess you have to if the ramp makes you or your boat drafts more water that what is on the ramp.
If the chunk is'nt leaking you can buy a pump for a parts store for around $10-$20, and just pump the fluid out. i change mine at 30000 and that how i do it. Never had a problem. I use the same pump to empty my brakefluid to replace it.
speaking of the rear differential, mine was leaking, still under the extended warranty, and now I'm noticing a whiring sound from the rear. First thought it was the tires, but they have been rotated regularly and are wearing evenly. Could the whiring be coming from the rear differential if the dealership didn't put enough oil in it when they fixed the leak? I haven't found any leaks.
If the dealer only replaced the fluid then they may have ignored damage or wear that was already started. Whining from a differential is never a good thing. A basic principle is that moving parts have no ability to fix themselves.
Take the truck to a different dealer, one who will really diagnose the situation, and see what they have to say.