Anemic 12v Horn
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Anemic 12v Horn
My '51 F1 is 12v neg grnd. and I can't seem to get the 12v horn (off a Bonnieville) to honk as loud as it should. I've replaced the horn relay with a 12v, and if I jump a wire from the center relay contact to the horn contact, it honks as it should. However, using the horn button (steering wheel center) will not produce a loud horn; it sounds weak & anemic. I've gone thru the horn button contact & rewired all the way to the relay, but now thinking that since this was originally a positive grnd. system, maybe I am somehow grounding my 12v positive circuit at the horn button. Anybody had this problem too? (before I open up the horn button again and look-see?)
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From: Southern New Hampshire
Originally Posted by oldmercury
My '51 F1 is 12v neg grnd. and I can't seem to get the 12v horn (off a Bonnieville) to honk as loud as it should. I've replaced the horn relay with a 12v, and if I jump a wire from the center relay contact to the horn contact, it honks as it should. However, using the horn button (steering wheel center) will not produce a loud horn; it sounds weak & anemic. I've gone thru the horn button contact & rewired all the way to the relay, but now thinking that since this was originally a positive grnd. system, maybe I am somehow grounding my 12v positive circuit at the horn button. Anybody had this problem too? (before I open up the horn button again and look-see?)
The button return should go to one side of the relay coil and the other a constant 12V. If it is sick then I suspect a poor ground up on the column. A resistance in the ground circuit gives the same results as if it were in the hot side.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Meade, KS
If you're sure that your relay is hooked up propperly, then I'd say she's got a bad ground somewhere too. Beware though...I replaced my horn relay recently, and "supposedly" got an identical replacement, but the relay was built differently, and therefore had to be wired differently. If you've replaced the relay recently, make double sure it's hooked up right, or you might be using your horn button as the actual horn switch, and not as a relay activator, which would (I think) make for a weak sound.
Hope it helps!
Hope it helps!
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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Fallon, Nevada
Horn Problems
Originally Posted by oldmercury
My '51 F1 is 12v neg grnd. and I can't seem to get the 12v horn (off a Bonnieville) to honk as loud as it should. I've replaced the horn relay with a 12v, and if I jump a wire from the center relay contact to the horn contact, it honks as it should. However, using the horn button (steering wheel center) will not produce a loud horn; it sounds weak & anemic. I've gone thru the horn button contact & rewired all the way to the relay, but now thinking that since this was originally a positive grnd. system, maybe I am somehow grounding my 12v positive circuit at the horn button. Anybody had this problem too? (before I open up the horn button again and look-see?)
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Well, my relay is one of those sealed housings that can't be opened up. It has three terminals: Far right is from horn button, center is from Batt, far left goes out to horn; same configuration as the original six volt. Yesterday I changed the ground wire that runs from horn to a more direct ground @ batt, and that seemed to improve things. I won't know until I can take it out somewhere and honk the thing without disturbing my neighbors (one of whom, you should know, had his house alarm sirens go off last nite about 2:30am - thanks for that one dufus!). I will report back. Thanks for all the great insight; I'm still learning about this truck's circuitry.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
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From: Durham NC
Never seen a relay that the cover wouldn't come off. Some are just more stubborn than others. Give it a wiggle and pull.
Note if you have it wired up backwards the horn may be sucking in instead of blowing out.
only kidding!
Note if you have it wired up backwards the horn may be sucking in instead of blowing out.
only kidding!
Last edited by AXracer; Aug 21, 2006 at 02:27 PM.
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Epilogue: Well, I took the advice of the above contributor and pulled the relay apart. What I found confirmed my opinion of Chinese manufactured auto parts. The top contact piece (a flimsy brass arm that is pulled down to the stationary contact) had somehow bent upward so that it wasn't making a good contact; it was if someone had taken a needle nosed plier and twisted the darn thing. This relay, bought brand new from C&G Ford parts a few weeks ago, is crummy and not worth using. I found my old original relay, pried it apart, cleaned it up in my media blaster, re-installed it on the truck, and the horn blasts properly. Next visit to C&G Ford, I shall return the chinese relay even if they won't reimburse me because I took it apart (how else can it be examined?). Thank you my poor, beligerent Chinese political prisoners who assembled this faulty doohickey, your insult is noted.
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From: Meta, MO
Reviving old Thread - Horn testing!
The horn relay on my 60 F100 has a broken spade, so I know I am going to need to replace it.
My question, how do I test the horn without the relay?
If I am going to need to replace both, I would rather buy them at the same time since the auto store is an hour away. I don't go to town any more then I need to.
Should I apply 12 volt positive directly to the horn spade?
I thought that would complete the circuit with the horn housing completing the ground, but all I got was a short chirp then nothing. That worried me that maybe I managed to pop the horn while attempting to test it.
Any help on horn testing is appreciated.
Thanks
Oscar
My question, how do I test the horn without the relay?
If I am going to need to replace both, I would rather buy them at the same time since the auto store is an hour away. I don't go to town any more then I need to.
Should I apply 12 volt positive directly to the horn spade?
I thought that would complete the circuit with the horn housing completing the ground, but all I got was a short chirp then nothing. That worried me that maybe I managed to pop the horn while attempting to test it.
Any help on horn testing is appreciated.
Thanks
Oscar
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2006
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From: S.W. Florida
Maybe I'm misunderstanding the question here, but you should be able to simply run 2 jumpers; 1 grounded and running to the horn ground, the other hot, and running to horn positive, and she should blow.. horns are high amp draw pieces, all the relay does is re-route that ampearge thru the relay (high current switch) instead of your horn button.
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Epilogue Part II: I did more work last week on the horn because as I was pulling out of my driveway making a hard right turn the horn sounded; I suspected a worn horn wire going down the steering column and I was right. So I replaced the complete horn wire from button to relay with a new correct wire I bought from my friends at C&G Ford here in town. A previous owner of this truck had soldered in a longer wire from horn button to relay and this connection was made inside the steering shaft. I think that's where it had shorted out. Anyhow, I noticed that extension wire was about an eight or ten gauge wire - way too thick for what was needed (14 ga. is what the replacement harness wire is) and perhaps was partly the cause of the anemic horn in the first place. Anyhows, I got it fixed and the horn no longer sounds when turning the steering wheel; wouldn't that have been uncool if it had honked at someone who took offense triggering a road rage situation?