Oh.... I have it, I had just taken off hoping it held the shaft in place, my mistake!

 

Ok, was wondering. I have seen some crazy things over the years...
Ok how gutsy do you feel? Got the handy dandy manual out, and it doesn't seem to want to scan worth a damn, can't read it, so not of much use. The manual says to use the gear train to get the pump out by prying between the clutch hubs. In order to get to the drive clutches, you will need to take the valve body loose, but don't worry, it isn't too bad, basically, it is self contained, and all you are doing is taking the unit out. Pay attention to the linkage position and all that, probably take a pic before you disassemble so you have a reference, of course, you have a second trans too...
From the book: (short version, some things they state will be cut out...) Remove the oil pan.
Remove 8 valve body attaching bolts. Lift valve body from case.
Remove the vacuum diapragm, rod and the primary throttle valve from the case. Slip the input shaft out of the front pump.
Remove front pump attaching bolts. Pry the gear train forward to remove the pump.
I'm stopping there because the rest is if you want to do a total tear down.I don't recall the vacuum modulator being any kind of issue, but added it all the same. I wouldn't get too wild with how far the pump moves either, as you don't want the band coming out if you don't have to. If it does, no big deal.You just would have to loosen the adjusting bolt, then get it back in and reset the band. I have that info too, just will worry about that later.
Installagain edited a bit) A quick tip... there is a thrust washer tha goes on the back side of the pump housing, besure it doesn't get lost, or this is a wasted effort. To help hold it in place, use petroleum jelly (vaseline) to stick it there. Works pretty good for holding it, and will dissolve in the oil once operating.
Installing band (if it moves, r such) Insert the intermediate band (second gear) into the case around the direct clutch (3rd gear) cylinder. Install the struts and tighten the band adjusting screw sufficiently to retain the band.
Place a selective thickness bronze thrust washer (reuse yours..) on the rear shoulder of the stator support (goes into the converter) and retain it with vaseline. Using two 5/16 bolts 3" long, make two alignment studs. Cut the heads from the bolts and grind a taper on the cut end. Temporarily install the two studs opposite each other in the mounting holes of the case. Slide a new gasket onto the studs (if yours isn't damaged, I have gotten away with reusing them, but if you can get a new one, it would be best), I have had leaks because f it..) Position pump on case, being careful tnot to damage the large seal on the OD of the pump housing. Remove the studs after installing the other bolts.

Ok, the pump itself, disassembly: Remove the two seal rings and the selective thrust washer. Remove the large square cut seal from the od of the pump housing.

Remove the 5 bolts that secure the stator support to the pump housing.

Remove the drive and the driven gear from the housing.
If the pump housing bushing is worn or damaged, replace it.

Assembly: Install the drive and driven gear in the pump housing. Each gear has either an identification mark or chanfered tooth on one face. The identification mark or chafered surface on each gear must be installed towards the front of the pump housing.

Position the stator support in the pump housing and install the five attaching bolts. Torque to spec.Install the selective thrust washer.

Place the pump on the converter to make sure that the drive gear engages the converter hub. Rotate the pump to make sure that the gears rotate freely.

Torque specs
Pump to case 16-30 ft/lbs
stator support to pump 12-16 ft/lbs
valve body 90-120 inch pounds

See how all that goes...

 

I think I will have to take monday & tuesday off to get all this straight !! Thanks for taking the time to explain all this, I will start with the 2wd trans to see how it goes and work my way to the 4wd.Will let you know how it goes, I did order a trans overhaul book last night so I can have some pictures in front of me!

 

Is the outer splined shaft on the front of the pump supposed to turn,by hand that is? I can't budge either of them on both trans, the inside splined shaft comes out easily by pulling on it and they both turn on both trans.

 

No. That is the stator support and is solid.

 

Then how did my converter eat the splines on the stator support, did it slip in uncorrectly, too much oil in the converter?

 

Go back to my post #29.
A thrust washer has broken and fallen out of position.
The convertor is shot.

 

Ok, saw your post, was the thrust washer in the converter?Taking a look at the other converter I have I cant see any difference when I look inside?

 

In the picture you posted a thrust washer has fallen out of place.
That is the reason for the marks on the stator support.
Use that convertor for a paper weight.

 

I'll use it to hold down my fishing rod, we have big catfish here!

 

Yep, converter has bit the big one, that would account for no movement, and it may have taken out the pump as well if a big chunk got into it. May have had to do with original misalignment, may have been before you tried to put it together. Either way, have to take care of it. When you get your book and see the internals of the converter, you will better understand the inner workings of the converter. The inner shaft is the input shaft, the outer, as stated, is the stator support. I'm away from my diagrams to explain it, so unless someone else beats me to it, I'll do that later so you understand what and why.

 

Hi fellro,

Today I took a look inside the trans, took off the pan then the valve body,tried to nudge the pump but it wouldn't move....made me scared so I closed everything up again and I'm going to wait till I get the book!Will keep you posted.

 

Those pumps wedge in kinda tight, and everything is steel, but I do understand not getting too wild... also, not a lot of pieces will fall out, the only PITA is if the clutches get out of line, just have to wiggle and twist the clutch drums a bit until they fall back into place.

 

Well, I decided to have a crack at it anyway, not from the inside but with a homemade puller, the kind that clamps on the outer splines and a big bolt that pushes on the inner rod.The pump came out ( I did this on the old salvaged C6 with the good pump),since it didn't matter much I pulled it in a horizontal position and I see what you mean by putting it on its end, the clutches went out of line and some kind of notched metal washer is fooling around in the bottom of the hole. I have all the components of the pump including the large plastic washer.....I am wondering if I am going to pull the other one, kinda scares me to see all those metal parts disengaged in the trans!

 

I was itching all day to take the other pump off ,the bad one, so I went ahead and took the chance, finally got lucky! The pump came off,with the trans upright, real easily and nothing inside moved,extraordinary!!!Both gasket are shot and I dont want to take a chance with RTV, will have to hunt the net for the gaskets.