98 ranger differential service
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98 ranger differential service
I broke the friggin ABS sensor off on the differential, so now I have to open my differential to try and pop it out. SOOOOOO....service time!
Anyone have the specs for servicing the differential on a 98 ranger 4.0. I need the torque specs for the bolts, and the amount/type of oil to put back in the housing. Also, does it require/recommend any additives? Thanks.
Anyone have the specs for servicing the differential on a 98 ranger 4.0. I need the torque specs for the bolts, and the amount/type of oil to put back in the housing. Also, does it require/recommend any additives? Thanks.
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25ftlb or 34 newtons for the cover bolts.
If it is limited slip and you use limited slip gear lube, no friction modifier needed.
If you use standard gear lube you will need to add a bottle of friction modifier about 4oz if I remember correctly.
Look at the tag under one of the cover bolts. The lower left number is the axle ratio and if there is an L in the number it is limited slip.
jd
If it is limited slip and you use limited slip gear lube, no friction modifier needed.
If you use standard gear lube you will need to add a bottle of friction modifier about 4oz if I remember correctly.
Look at the tag under one of the cover bolts. The lower left number is the axle ratio and if there is an L in the number it is limited slip.
jd
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
It's shown like 3 73 for a 3.73 or 3L73 for a limited-slip 3.73. All fluid information can be found in your owner's manual.
When you put the diff cover back on, apply a fairly thick bead of RTV silicone around the entire thing to properly seal it. I used the black stuff. As soon as you apply it, pop the cover into place and put four bolts on it in a box pattern (to keep it securely down). It'll need to sit there until it sets then you can add fluid.
Also, when you have it open, after it drains drain the bottom part of it, fluid won't drain out of that little "ditch" for lack of a better term, so you'll need to find a way to suck it out to properly get all the fluid out.
When you put the diff cover back on, apply a fairly thick bead of RTV silicone around the entire thing to properly seal it. I used the black stuff. As soon as you apply it, pop the cover into place and put four bolts on it in a box pattern (to keep it securely down). It'll need to sit there until it sets then you can add fluid.
Also, when you have it open, after it drains drain the bottom part of it, fluid won't drain out of that little "ditch" for lack of a better term, so you'll need to find a way to suck it out to properly get all the fluid out.
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thanks for the help guys...yeah my owners manual is non-existent because I bought the truck used, and they obviously lost the manual. Now hopefully I can get the darn sensor out! I hope the ring isn't in the way. I guess we will see!
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Oh, and what weight gear oil do I need? synthetic? And do I just fill it up to the plug? Sorry for all the questions...it's my first differential service 
Last edited by kdeleon; Aug 19, 2006 at 11:18 AM.
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Originally Posted by RangerPilot
When you put the diff cover back on, apply a fairly thick bead of RTV silicone around the entire thing to properly seal it. I used the black stuff. As soon as you apply it, pop the cover into place and put four bolts on it in a box pattern (to keep it securely down). It'll need to sit there until it sets then you can add fluid.
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Originally Posted by kdeleon
Oh, and what weight gear oil do I need? synthetic? And do I just fill it up to the plug? Sorry for all the questions...it's my first differential service
Synthetic is your option. I like it myself.
Fill to bottom of fill plug. jd
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From: iowa
Originally Posted by jimdandy
You can use RTV if you wish, but I'm a gasket man myself. Clean both surfaces, and I apply gasket tack to the gasket and surfaces. I have had a couple instances where the RTV didn't hold up. jd
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From: Eastern WA
If you go out and buy a gasket and try to torque down those bolts, you will be in for an unpleasant little surprise. Don't ask me how I know; I'll just say it took a new plastic cover to make things right. They used permatex black for a very good reason. Do not use a gasket as was suggested in post #6, unless you have a metal cover.
Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; Aug 19, 2006 at 01:43 PM.
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Does the 8.8 have a plastic cover? I haven't seen one, but that doesn't mean anything. I have a little experience changing covers (more than one) with gaskets, rtv, and haven't damaged a cover yet. I don't like rtv because its messy, you have to wait for it to dry, it squeezes out all over the place, etc. But, if you like it, use it. jd
jd
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
As far as I know, there is no gasket on our diff guys, my owner's manual states to seal it with a silicone-based sealing agent (RTV or the like).
As Cowboy said, permatex black, a GOOD heavy bead, all the way around, and plenty of torque on the bolts. A mess to clean up around the edges is better than it not sealing properly and doing it again (been there, done that!).
As Cowboy said, permatex black, a GOOD heavy bead, all the way around, and plenty of torque on the bolts. A mess to clean up around the edges is better than it not sealing properly and doing it again (been there, done that!).
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Originally Posted by RangerPilot
As far as I know, there is no gasket on our diff guys, my owner's manual states to seal it with a silicone-based sealing agent (RTV or the like).
Draining and Filling
1. Drive the vehicle for 16-24 km (10-15 miles) at highway speeds to warm the rear axle lubricant to operating temperature and minimum viscosity.
2. Raise the vehicle on a hoist and place a drain pan under the rear axle (4001) to be drained.
3. Clean the filler plug area of the axle housing cover (4033) or carrier to prevent possible entry of rust, dirt, etc. into the rear axle assembly (4006).
4. Remove the axle lubricant fill plug. The fill plug is located in the carrier.
5. Using a suitable suction-type utility pump (manual or powered), drain the rear axle lubricant from the axle by inserting the pump suction hose through the axle filler plug hole down into the lowest portion of the carrier and removing all the lubricant.
6. Fill the axle housing with the specified amount and type of lubricant as shown in the Specifications portion of this section.
7. Install the filler plug. On Ford rear axles, tighten the filler plug to 20-40 N-m (15-30 ft-lb).
It's personal preference, I prefer gaskets, and if installed properly, there is no problem.
Last edited by monsterbaby; Aug 20, 2006 at 11:26 AM.
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
funny also that yours doesn't mention pulling the rear cover. I'd never trust the draining ability of a little pump. I remove the cover to let most of it drain, and drain the rest out of the "tub" at the bottom with a pump. So it's bone dry, I know it's bone dry, and I can inspect everything.
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