Is this "Black Death"
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,058
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From: Too close to Houston
Is this "Black Death"
I'm working on the A/C of my '83 F100 and just dug this stuff of the orifice tube. I blew compressed air through the condenser and it seemed to flow okay. The truck hasn't had a belt on the compressor for 5 years or so and my dad tells me the last freon charge only lasted 3 days. He thought the mechanic had converted it to R134a, but wasn't sure. It has green o-rings on the orifice tube connection, a red orifice tube with green o-rings and didn't have any pressure. It doesn't have R134a service fittings.
I cleaned the tube tightened the connections and it now holds pressure and vacuum. I think I'll put a charge in it and see if the compressor is noisy before I go any further. I plan to replace the compressor (if noisy), the accumulator, and orifice tube. I'll dump the oil out of the compressor and blow what I can out of the evaporator, lines, and condenser. I'll go back with 10oz of ester oil and R134a and change the service fittings. If this is an indicator of "black death" will I have to replace the condenser too? Thanks!
I cleaned the tube tightened the connections and it now holds pressure and vacuum. I think I'll put a charge in it and see if the compressor is noisy before I go any further. I plan to replace the compressor (if noisy), the accumulator, and orifice tube. I'll dump the oil out of the compressor and blow what I can out of the evaporator, lines, and condenser. I'll go back with 10oz of ester oil and R134a and change the service fittings. If this is an indicator of "black death" will I have to replace the condenser too? Thanks!
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Too close to Houston
Originally Posted by Sport45
I'm working on the A/C of my '83 F100 and just dug this stuff of the orifice tube. I blew compressed air through the condenser and it seemed to flow okay. The truck hasn't had a belt on the compressor for 5 years or so and my dad tells me the last freon charge only lasted 3 days. He thought the mechanic had converted it to R134a, but wasn't sure. It has green o-rings on the orifice tube connection, a red orifice tube with green o-rings and didn't have any pressure. It doesn't have R134a service fittings.
I cleaned the tube tightened the connections and it now holds pressure and vacuum. I think I'll put a charge in it and see if the compressor is noisy before I go any further. I plan to replace the compressor (if noisy), the accumulator, and orifice tube. I'll dump the oil out of the compressor and blow what I can out of the evaporator, lines, and condenser. I'll go back with 10oz of ester oil and R134a and change the service fittings. If this is an indicator of "black death" will I have to replace the condenser too? Thanks!
I cleaned the tube tightened the connections and it now holds pressure and vacuum. I think I'll put a charge in it and see if the compressor is noisy before I go any further. I plan to replace the compressor (if noisy), the accumulator, and orifice tube. I'll dump the oil out of the compressor and blow what I can out of the evaporator, lines, and condenser. I'll go back with 10oz of ester oil and R134a and change the service fittings. If this is an indicator of "black death" will I have to replace the condenser too? Thanks!
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 550
Likes: 1
From: Effingham,IL USA
the "black death" was on older i think late 80's early 90's ford vehicles when the entire ac system got a black nasty substance all over from i think the oil not being compatible with the drier or something like that. it killed the compressor, then when u opened the system up, surprise! nasty black goop everywhere. im not sure if flush would clean it out. this happened to a lot of systems. yours looks like just rust. i would flush the evap and cond good and recharge. u might get by with the old compressor, but i wouldnt bank on it. if u replace all the hoses the new ones should have the newer barrier layer 2 prevent the 134 from leaking through the hose. i retro'd my 83 f100's ac in the spring of 03 and it still works great. all i did was replace the orings, clean the orifice tube, add ester oil to the compressor, evac and charge with new fittings. good luck!
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Niceville, FL.
Looks like dessiccant from the old accumulator/drier. Flush,flush, blow out all components with compressed air. Replace accumulator with one that has dessiccant compatible with R134A. If you're getting a new or rebuilt compressor you may have to install a suction side filter to make the compressor warranty valid. Be sure and clean the mesh screen in the high side line (it's inside the tubing fitting at the outlet port of the condenser, if it has one); it's a pre-filter for the orfice tube. I prefer Castrol Polyolester oil (POL) when converting from R12 to R134a but the instructions for a new/rebuilt compressor may require a PAG oil.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Too close to Houston
Thanks! I'll flush it out and give it another try. The compressor is noisy so it will have to go. Will any compressor with the same mounting dimensions work? I found this compressor and it loos like all I would have to do is move my clutch/pulley from the old compressor.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Niceville, FL.
Click this link for "BLACK DEATH": http://www.ackits.com/index.cfm?fuse...=black%20death . The two cases I've personally seen and helped fix, both resulted from just putting cheap R134A/PAG oil retrofit kits in/on the systems. I think they only had about 4 oz. of PAG oil, or less, that was injected in the low side port.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 9,176
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From: Western Central NV
Someone very well could tried 134A an one thing I know is if you have oil cooler & trans cooler as factory options they won't allow enough air to the condenser to use 134A. I agree flush the system completely before recharging.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Eureka, KS
I just did this on my 82 F-150 the other day. Went through the whole system. Flushed everything, drained all the old oil out, replaced the orings, accumulator, and orifice tube. Used 10 oz or so of ester 100, replaced the clutch assembly. Charged her up with 134a and it works great. I've gotten as low as 39f vent temps in the morning on low fan. I'm averaging vent temps in the 50-55f range.
I had some buildup on the prescreen and orifice tube screen as well. Sorta like what you had, real light colored stuff though. My compressor is so quiet, you can't even tell the ac is on.
Good luck, take your time and do it right. Make sure your cooling fan /clutch is in proper working order to get enough airflow through the coil, very important. These trucks have big condensers which work great with the 134a conversion.
I used a quart of ac flush and was glad i did the flush, there was some buldup and debris in those coils.
I had some buildup on the prescreen and orifice tube screen as well. Sorta like what you had, real light colored stuff though. My compressor is so quiet, you can't even tell the ac is on.
Good luck, take your time and do it right. Make sure your cooling fan /clutch is in proper working order to get enough airflow through the coil, very important. These trucks have big condensers which work great with the 134a conversion.
I used a quart of ac flush and was glad i did the flush, there was some buldup and debris in those coils.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Niceville, FL.
Tgore3,
You should be getting temps in the 38 to 46 deg. F. range. Did you replace the orfice tube with the red R134A version? Have you adjusted the cycling pressure switch? Cycling pressure switch adjustment: remove electrical connector, the adjusting screw is in a hole between the switch terminals; turn screw 1/8 turn CCW at a time (no more than 3/8 turn total) to get air temp at center vent in temp range above (Max Air/ Fan Hi).
You should be getting temps in the 38 to 46 deg. F. range. Did you replace the orfice tube with the red R134A version? Have you adjusted the cycling pressure switch? Cycling pressure switch adjustment: remove electrical connector, the adjusting screw is in a hole between the switch terminals; turn screw 1/8 turn CCW at a time (no more than 3/8 turn total) to get air temp at center vent in temp range above (Max Air/ Fan Hi).
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Eureka, KS
Originally Posted by Piffery1
Tgore3,
You should be getting temps in the 38 to 46 deg. F. range. Did you replace the orfice tube with the red R134A version? Have you adjusted the cycling pressure switch? Cycling pressure switch adjustment: remove electrical connector, the adjusting screw is in a hole between the switch terminals; turn screw 1/8 turn CCW at a time (no more than 3/8 turn total) to get air temp at center vent in temp range above (Max Air/ Fan Hi).
You should be getting temps in the 38 to 46 deg. F. range. Did you replace the orfice tube with the red R134A version? Have you adjusted the cycling pressure switch? Cycling pressure switch adjustment: remove electrical connector, the adjusting screw is in a hole between the switch terminals; turn screw 1/8 turn CCW at a time (no more than 3/8 turn total) to get air temp at center vent in temp range above (Max Air/ Fan Hi).
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Niceville, FL.
tgore3, I got mine from Advance Auto Parts: Factory Air P/N 38635 (red OEM replacement for '94 F150) about $2.50 or so. I just told the counterman I wanted a "red Ford orfice tube" and he didn't even have to look it up
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Eureka, KS
Good to know on the red OT. Only ones I knew about were the blue and the adjusting one.
The weather has cooled off quite a bit and the compressor has started to cycle at higher rpm. I adjusted the cycle switch a little, it didn't seem to have any affect. How do you tell if it's cycling too often? or does it just vary depending on ambient temperature?
The weather has cooled off quite a bit and the compressor has started to cycle at higher rpm. I adjusted the cycle switch a little, it didn't seem to have any affect. How do you tell if it's cycling too often? or does it just vary depending on ambient temperature?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Niceville, FL.
Don't know if this is the proper way (may not work with the blue OT) but this is how I did it: R134A charge at 85% (by weight) of R12; Engine on fast idle step @ about 1600 rpm; Max air, Hi fan spd; Truck in shade; Cab temp cooled to about 75 deg. F.; R134 Gauges installed; Monitored low side pressure port, read temperature scale of gauge; Adjusted cycling switch in small increments until it was consistantly cycling off at about 34 Deg. F. indicated (little over 1/8 turn CCW from orig position). Result was approx. 38 deg. F. air from center vent at "cycle off" point.
I also installed a High Pressure Cut Out (HPCO) switch kit for over pressure protection (from J.C. Whitney, couldn't find one locally).
I also installed a High Pressure Cut Out (HPCO) switch kit for over pressure protection (from J.C. Whitney, couldn't find one locally).