been working on the bronco lately pretty furiously (for me )

i have started working on brakes and got my hard line, line lock, MC, and h-booster. before i hardcore jump into running all my lines i need to make sure i dont screw up my brake hoses.

does anyone have a tape measure measurement of how long the front hoses are from fitting to fitting and then the rear single hose from fitting to fitting?!?!

thanx

-cutts-

 

o yea, and i was wondering.... why are the hard lines at the MC always coiled? is there a specific reason for this or when i make my lines up can i just use straight lines?

-cutts-

 

i could be wrong, but i believe the coils are for keeping the fluid cool...

 

I thought the coils were there to absorb the movement between the body and the frame when the body moves on the mounts.

 

Yep, thats it. Just wrap them around a spray paint can of some sort, and your set!

 

the lines help absorb vibration to reduce fatigue at the fittings, you dont have to have them, just some slack in the line, but god.boots has the right idea, just wrap them around somthing.

 

when I've done mine, I've just left slack. I'm not talented or artistic to make a nice coil

 

oh yeah, thats right...duh... i dont know what i was thinking.......

 

> why are the hard lines at the MC always coiled

To provide vertical stress relief and to absorb shock and stretches. The frame moves all sorts of ways different from the body on a frame/body set up. If you just had straight lines, eventually they would break and you would go over a cliff somewhere without any brakes.

You see this type of failure on vehicles with body lifts and Early Broncos (not enough room to do a "quick" good job).

I use a real tube bender to make my spirals so it does not kink the walls/seams.

> does anyone have a tape measure measurement of how long the front hoses are from fitting to fitting

On the straight axle Fords it is about 12". The driver and pass. hoses are the same length with the hard line on the pass. side being about 41 inches long.

If you search in the 67-72 forum with the words +napa +hose and my user name it should pull up the generic hydraulic hose numbers and fitting numbers to adapt everything to 3/16 on a straight axle including the hose# for the combo valve to axle. I made mine about 3" inches longer then stock and held it out of the way with a bungie. You probably will have enough lift not to worry about it.

 

great guys, thanx alot!

awesome info rebo, thanx for the part numbers! however i have since made firneds with the local hydrp shop and i may just have them make me a set. it'd cost less than those steel bradided lines from skyjacker!

i wouold have it all done this weekend but i got set back by a fuel pump crapping out on me in the middle of traffic and spent all weekend puttin another in my powerstroke. no one tells ya how wonderful it is to remove the turbo and all of the exhaust!

-cutts-

 

hey you forgot to mention i towed you home in the 1600 dollar 89 f150 we went and picked up

 

lol ya ya ya! i am SO glad you did buy the truck and i am also SO glad we made it out of riverdale. if we hadnt made it and i had to leave my truck, there wouldnt be much left of it when i had a chance to go back and get it, lol

-cutts-

 

> i have since made firneds with the local hydrp shop

At least in my area, the local hydraulic shops can order and use Earl's hoses and connectors so you can build a far superior hose. On Earl's website they list local suppliers etc.

When doing my truck for off road, I keep a 12" front hose, 12" hard line (caliper to hose), and a 3/16 plug for the master cyl behind the seat. That way if I nuke a line on something, I can put another line on or block that circuit to limp it home or get it out of the woods onto level ground, with at least rear brakes.