I never wanted to see her like this, but alas.



The previous owner though brake pads where brake pads and bought crapp ones. The rivets broke, the pad broke, and this is what happens.





It couldnt be turned with out NAPA having liability issues but the local salvage yard has three and they are only $25 as opposed to $70 new. Thank the lord.

 

So what is the question here?

 

No question, just pictures of the current work I am doing on my truck.

I will probably have some questions soon when I go to repack my bearings though.

 

Well to make you feel better just know your not the first nor will you be the last person to have that happen. But $70 for a new rotor sounds awefully high to me unless the hub is cast as part of the rotor and then it's that high but if that rotor can come off just the rotor should be about $30 last time I bought one, heck the one for my 2000 F250 superduty only cost $36, and the rear (which has a brake drum cast inside of the rotor for the emergancy park brake) was only $60

 

The hub is cast into the rotor on this year/modle.

If it was a B2000 it would only be $40 because the hub is not a part of the rotor.

 

Thats why I don'y buy parts from napa, the one around here makes you wait for about 10 minutes while bullshut to each other (In clear view so you can just look at them) and then they finally get around to helping you, then the parts arent that much better than any other parts house but they cost almost as much as a dealer.

Sorry for the rant, I just hate napa.
Hope you get that truck back together.

 

Welcome to the joy of Ranger rotors. IIRC, the max wear on a old 94 is like .060 inch. It takes nothing at all to strip that off of a rotor, sometimes not even hitting metal and just normal usage will make one marginal to no good. Too bad Ford didn't toss in an extra .060 - .100 when these were being made.

 

I don't know, but your truck looks pretty good jacked up, have you concidered a lift hee hee ?

 

it's a mazda.i dont like the chrom trim roubd the widows. wendells got a good point. well atleast you didn't have that happen to a 4w disk.

 

I've considered a lift but I just odnt have the money. I dont even know if there is a lift for my truck since I have torsions. If I went with a lift I would want bigger tires to better fill out the wheel wells. I already have 30's and enough height to stack 3 coke cans under it.

suspension was another package on the Troy Lee I think.

I bought a used rotor. Question, if it is a little rusty is it ok? I'll get some pictures of the one I got soon. I'd like an answear asap as I'd like to get it back togather tonight.


oh an x2 for napa. Went to discount autoparts and they didnth ave a greese cap in stock for my truck. Went to napa because it was like a stones throw away and they told me only the DEALER carried them. I laughed knowing it was just a standard sized dust cap. I go to my friends dad's autoparts store across town and they have 5 in stock.

NAPA blows ***** but they are the only machine shop in town and the 2nd closest to my house.

 

"Cool", thats easy enough, do like I did, and crank your t-bars a couple of inches to level the truck, throw on some BFG 265/75-16's, and call it a day. You have a sharp truck !! The rotor may be ok, but if it's rusty, shouldn't you have it turned, and are there any groves in it? I've cleaned rust off of rotors before with sand paper, I don't guess it's the best way, but I didn't have much money either, ya gotta do, whats ya gotta do.

 

well to answer Bill's questions about why they don't leave enough meat on them to turn, and answer some of wendell's question about shouldn't you have it turned, the reason they don't want to hve the brake rotors turned is a liability issue same as why napa can't turn them after a certian point. When they were forced to go with organic brake pads due to restrictions on asbestos use, turning the rotors caused a lot of problems. The surface finish isn't right for the organic brake shoes and after turning them you have very little to no brake when applyed. in 1992 When I was still working for Chevy, GM came to us and told us that if we had to turn rotors down, then before the customer was to be allowed to take the vehicle we had to "break them in" what this entailed was us taking the car down the road at 55mph and applying the brakes while maintaining speed until the brakes were litterly smoking so bad you couldn't see behind you. then when they cooled off enough you had to go out and test to make sure they actually would stop the vehicle. I tried it once before breaking in the rotors and there really was NO panic braking ability at all, if you stabbed the brakes with fresh turned rotors and new brake pads it just kept going like you didn't have brakes. Thus the manufactors don't want the liability of someone getting thier rotors turned and doing the brake job running out and killing someone then blaming it on defective design. It was a goverment mandate that caused this.

 

The rust shouldnt bother you, first time you hit the brakes that rust will be buffed off.

You learn something new every day, Thanks for the lesson Monsterbaby.

 

I'm going to have the rusty one turned. Its only $10 so what the hell?

I reinstalled the good on though. It works beautifully. I hate ford's low assed torque ratings on everything. 10in/lbs? come one, I can turn something finger tight past 10 in/lbs.