I thought the front-end shake I was getting during braking was due to a warped rotor(s). I pulled all the wheels off the truck (rear to do the rear brakes which were squealing and locking up all the time), and I found that my front right ball joint has all sorts of play in it (and the front right tire is considerably more worn than the other three).

So, a few weekends from now, I plan on replacing the ball joints (left and right). I had a few questions before I start in on this:

(truck is 94 f150, 4wd, manual hubs, 300 i6, stock size tires (235-75-15)

1) Will the harbor freight ball joint tool kit ($16.99) one work for removing/installing the ball joints or do I need to get the extended adapter kit ($54.99) (I don't want to buy unnecessary tools, but I also do not want to have to make a tool run half-way through the job).

2) What else would you guys recommend I swap out, while I am doing this? I will do the brakes (just because they have ~110k miles on them, and I will have to take that stuff mostly apart anyways). Shocks, tie-rod ends, ... what else is basically a gimme in terms of the labor.

3) I plan on getting greasable ball-joints to replace the originals. Any recommendations on good ball-joints...and even more importantly any to avoid.

Thanks for your replies.
-Andy

 

when i put my lift in, i then noticed all 4 of my ball joints were shot. I got all 4 MOOG ball joints..greasables. From other threads, Moog is the best, and most popular, from what i have read. Bronco Graveyard has a nice price on ball joints, but they are worthless and go out right away.

I had mine done professionally because I know you need a few special tools because you gotta pull the axle out to get at em. while your at it, i'd do the wheel bearings and axle u joints. the shop said mine were bad, including camber bushings. Whole thing cost $500, but i have a whole rebuilt front end

 

I have done ball joints with nothing more than a joint fork and BFH to get the spindle off the truck, and a bench vise and selection of sockets to press the joints in and out. You will need a special socket to remove the wheel bearing retainer nut, and likely a 3/4 drive ratchet and sockets to get the ball joint nuts off. I exploded a 1/2" drive Craftsman ratchet into multiple pieces trying to remove the upper joint nut. The 3/4 ratchet did it easily with a pipe added for extra torque.
You will have to pull the side axles to do this so replace the u-joints if seized/worn.

FYI.. the smaller of the 2 rear brake shoes goes towwards the front, installing these wrong results in grabby brakes prone to lockup.

 

harbor freight press works fine as i have one great 4 u joints too..........mine 30.00 wtf?? socket was 10.00 at autozone u can rent it anda spindle puller 4 25 and u also need a slide hammer which i purchased at harbor freight hate jap tools but 4 the money 4 think 20.00 can all be rented at autozone with deposit not difficult in my opinion but as u know those vary took longer to get tools together than to do job hope this helps
al