$560 Cps
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From: Quesnel, BC, Canada
$560 Cps
jebus, I still dont think theyre quoting me on the right piece...called the 2 different parts suppliers here, and they both quoted me over $500. I told them theyre either giving me the wrong part or someones rockin the crack pipe.
What are you guys paying for a CPS...I thought it was under $20
also when I had my glow plugs done in the winter, the mechanic said my CPS needed to be changed, but he didnt because it my truck still worked and there was a risk of loosing it down into the timing cover. Is that normal, or is mine potentially broken?
$560
What are you guys paying for a CPS...I thought it was under $20
also when I had my glow plugs done in the winter, the mechanic said my CPS needed to be changed, but he didnt because it my truck still worked and there was a risk of loosing it down into the timing cover. Is that normal, or is mine potentially broken?
$560
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Northern Utah
Pud, check international for the CPS (camshaft position sensor) it will be around $100.0 bucks. if you have time check ebay I have seen them for around $70.0 bucks. I have never heard of being able to lose it in the timing cover. It's kinda on the bottom right front side, and very easy to change. 10mm wrench and flat screwdrive to pry it out. Stick around some very sharp people will be alot more help than me. Good luck.
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From: STEPHENVILLE,TX!!!!!
theres one for 94.5-96 and one for 97and up.
the only diff is the bracket that holds them in.
powerstrokeshop.com (site sponsor) is under $100 on them.
they take 10 minutes to change, $540 is way way too much.
is the truck stalling??
the only diff is the bracket that holds them in.
powerstrokeshop.com (site sponsor) is under $100 on them.
they take 10 minutes to change, $540 is way way too much.
is the truck stalling??
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From: Quesnel, BC, Canada
no but at times it sounds like a mix between the DMF rattling back and forth, and the engine sputtering, after idling down to idle...stops it if I rev it past 1000+ rpm, 99% of the time it will smooth itself off. The only time it ever does this is when my foot comes off the pedal, after being on it. ie: pulling into my driveway and poppin it in nuetral, or just stickin the clutch in and coasting....pullin up to a stop sign/red light, yadda yadda.
I also have over an inch of play in the DMF.
I also have over an inch of play in the DMF.
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From: Senoia, GA
just got one off ebay a couple months back for $60+ shipping. i dont think they know what you are talkin about
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From: STEPHENVILLE,TX!!!!!
IF IT AINT stallin its not the sensor, my truck does the same thing if you suddenly unload it. with that much play in the flywheel im suprized it hasnt grenaded on you yet.
the other thing it could be is the ipr stickin a little when its unloaded but the engine rpm is still up above idle. hmmm
the other thing it could be is the ipr stickin a little when its unloaded but the engine rpm is still up above idle. hmmm
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From: Quesnel, BC, Canada
when she sputters out my idle drops down...comes back to normal idle, rattles a bit then smooths out.
I went down to the parts store...I found one place that had a CPS in stock for $487, I had to go see this $500 CPS. Sure enough, it WAS the proper part!!!! It wasnt even the Blue CPS too.
If my flywheel grenades, Im guessing I can say good bye to my input shaft?
I went down to the parts store...I found one place that had a CPS in stock for $487, I had to go see this $500 CPS. Sure enough, it WAS the proper part!!!! It wasnt even the Blue CPS too.
If my flywheel grenades, Im guessing I can say good bye to my input shaft?
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
Payin the shipping from the states is still going to be well below what you have to pay for it.
I agree with Jake, it does not sound like a cam sensor problem....but it is still a good idea to carry a spare, especially if you get the cheap American version.
Given the relative cost of parts up there, you'll probably be better off with a single mass clutch conversion from down here too.
I agree with Jake, it does not sound like a cam sensor problem....but it is still a good idea to carry a spare, especially if you get the cheap American version.
Given the relative cost of parts up there, you'll probably be better off with a single mass clutch conversion from down here too.
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From: Quesnel, BC, Canada
im going to call ford tomorow just to see how much they want for the sensor, and a new DMF...I just want to see how much they are. I couldnt believe the f'n sensor was 4x what you guys pay.
When I called ford about the clutch linkage bushings, they were $18.95 for just the one, I got a pack of em for $8.00 at the store that wants $560 for the CPS.
Im looking into running a 6.9L flywheel. One of the mods over in the IDI section is running the whole 6.9L package in his 7.3L turbo/4-speed combo. Flywheel, clutch, PP, and throw out bearing.
edit:heres a link to my solid flywheel thread over there https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...-flywheel.html
When I called ford about the clutch linkage bushings, they were $18.95 for just the one, I got a pack of em for $8.00 at the store that wants $560 for the CPS.
Im looking into running a 6.9L flywheel. One of the mods over in the IDI section is running the whole 6.9L package in his 7.3L turbo/4-speed combo. Flywheel, clutch, PP, and throw out bearing.
edit:heres a link to my solid flywheel thread over there https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...-flywheel.html
Last edited by pud; Aug 16, 2006 at 08:31 PM.
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From: STEPHENVILLE,TX!!!!!
the dual mass setup is pricey and its inherint problems are still there. the southbend or luk single mass lasts much longer and works much better. lot less $$ too. same thing can get it shipped up there for alot less. nah i dont think it will take out the input shaft unless you ran it for ALOT longer the vibration will tear stuff up i dont think ive heard of one taking out the input shaft. the last dualmass i had when it finaly failed the clutch wouldnt disengage.
i run the hiem joint clutch linkage part cause i got tired of the lame plastic one in there. ive put the hiems in and never touched them again.
so it only presents this problem when your under load and unload the truck fast by pushing in the clutch and letting it fall down to idle?
i run the hiem joint clutch linkage part cause i got tired of the lame plastic one in there. ive put the hiems in and never touched them again.
so it only presents this problem when your under load and unload the truck fast by pushing in the clutch and letting it fall down to idle?
Postmaster
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From: SHELTON, WA
you definitely want a solid flywheel either made by sbc or luk. i got one and love it.
the top of the line clutches offered by both these manufacturers are 1/2 the price of fords junk. and these handle twice the power.
the top of the line clutches offered by both these manufacturers are 1/2 the price of fords junk. and these handle twice the power.
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From: Quesnel, BC, Canada
I am just going to call Ford for the hell of it. Im curious now to know how obscene of a price they want. I am definately going to a solid piece.
I just threaded the the pin part the bushing slides over and put a ny-loc nut on it with some loctite and a washer. That was only 3 days ago, things are still tight and going well however
exactly, if I hold the brake down and let the clutch out till the rpm drops a little, and then punch the clutch hard back to the floor she rattles everytime. RPM drops to 560-ish then it sputters back up to about 654 and smooths out after a second. Ive got an external auxilary idle controller, made by ford. It has a digital rpm display, rpm setting (1300,1500,2100, 2300rpm) and charge protect for when your boosting someone it keeps voltage steady...thats how I know exact rpm's. Also my stock tach reads a little lower than the actual rpm shown by the auxillary idle controller. I trust the digital piece more.
Originally Posted by barebackjake
i run the hiem joint clutch linkage part cause i got tired of the lame plastic one in there. ive put the hiems in and never touched them again.
so it only presents this problem when your under load and unload the truck fast by pushing in the clutch and letting it fall down to idle?
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From: Quesnel, BC, Canada
called Ford to see the cost of a new DMF and CPS
........
.....get ready for this, FORD WAS CHEAPER, by a few bucks, $325 for the CPS. The DMF is a different story. $2678.50!!!!!!!!!!
I called a used truck parts supplier earlier today, $75 for a solid flywheel off a 6.9L and another $75 for clutch and pressure plate. Stuff like brakes and clutches are only stocked if theyre over 80% life left. Sign me up.
.............get ready for this, FORD WAS CHEAPER, by a few bucks, $325 for the CPS. The DMF is a different story. $2678.50!!!!!!!!!!
I called a used truck parts supplier earlier today, $75 for a solid flywheel off a 6.9L and another $75 for clutch and pressure plate. Stuff like brakes and clutches are only stocked if theyre over 80% life left. Sign me up.