Hey everyone.
I have a big problem. My '65 F20 is having problems...It has a 390 with a 4bbl Edelbrock 650 carb. When Iam in PARK it idles just fine at 600 rpm...but AS SOON as I put it in Drive, the Idle goes to crap and it dies within 15 seconds. This is a real pain because everytime i come to a complete stop, and i mean everytime, it dies. I have to either put it in neutral or keep one foot on the brake and one on the gas. Could this be as simple as just a PCV valve??? I just had my carb and trainy rebuilt, so im ruling that out. PLEASE HELP.
Casey
mkjudy@qwest.net

 

Have you tried raising the idle speed so you get 6 or 700rpm in gear? you'll end up with higher than 600 in park.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 01-Jun-02 AT 07:30 PM (EST)]Mkjudy: I would strongly suspect a vacuum leak somewhere, incorrect dwell, or incorrect timing. They will interfere with idle settings, so you may idle fine, but not run right.
Do as the previous post suggested, and run the idle up just to get it to run right. Check your timing, your dwell, your vacuum connections, and evrything else. And oh, just because your carb was "rebuilt," it doesn't mean it was done right!
Did it run fine before, but not now? What has changed, or did you do different? Before it started doing this?

 

If/when I turn up the Idle, I end up dieseling. This was my problem before I encountered this...I turned up the idle to about 700 when in gear, that way it wouldnt die. But in turn causes it to deisel bad after shutoff...im stumped.

 

Timing is off.
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John

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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

Yup, for sure your timing and/or dwell is off, or you've got a minor vacuum leak somewhere!

 

John (one and two hehe)-
I worked on the timing a little bit...please forgive me for the "lame" questions, I am just a 18 year old guy that loves my truck, I never really had a dad who could help me out too much - so i basically teach myself everything. Question, When your doing your timing, do you just align the two hash marks on the dampener by twisting the distrubutor? Because the two marks were a good 3 inches apart, I made them to about a 1/4" away from eachother and it seems to be running a little better, BUT IT STILL DIES! Should I make the two marks dead even???? Any help would be great.
Ford 390.

 

Do you have A vacum brake booster? If so try plugging the vacuum line that goes to the booster and then try and see if it stalls. It sounds like you have a vacuum leak. Eric

 

On the transmission is a vacuum modulator, connected to a short piece of rubber line connected to a steel line running up to the intake manifold and connected again to a rubber line connected to manifold vacuum. Plug this off and if you have power brakes plug off the vacuum source to that as well. Using chalk, mark the timing marks on the vibration damper. Start the engine and adjust ignition timing to 10 degrees advanced at idle. With the timing light connected, rev the engine a little and see if the timing advances. If the timing does not move as you increase engine rpm, core the distributor, its probably worn out anyway and they are cheap. Usually a core distributor will have a new set of points in it. If you still have points set them about 19 thousands, if they are burned and pitted replace them. Set the curb idle about 750 rpm. Re connect the transmission and brake booster, go for a drive and post back. I think you have a vacuum leak, but it could be a simple case of burned points/timing or a stuck distributor advance. Your original problem (Dieseling) can be cured by Pouring a quart of water down the carburator. "I Know"..sounds stupid! But, with the engine warm, running at fast idle slowly pour in the water, don't stall the engine..and after change the engine oil and filter. The steam will clean out carbon deposits that glow and ignite fuel in the combustion chamber and cause (Dieseling) even after you shut off the ignition! I do this at least once a year.
William in Atlanta

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 05-Jun-02 AT 01:22 AM (EST)]Okay, so I got the ole' timing light out. Checked it. It was a little off...I adjusted the distrubutor to the point when both the Dampener and the Pointy-Thingy-Sticking-Out-With the hash mark on it were Perfectly aligned (thats what I was supposed to do right?). And my problem still exsists. It still dies and when I put it in gear. Maybe I just dont know enough about timing, proper angles, etc, to know really what I am doing. I dont even know if I was supposed to have the timing chalk marks on the dampener and marker aligned??????????? Help a stumped kid.



Casey
1965 F250, 390ci, Edelbrock performer package, etc, etc, etc.