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[updated:LAST EDITED ON 10-Jun-02 AT 11:58 PM (EST)]
Hello again,
Well Ive replaced the front brakes and now... how do I get the
rear drums off?
Looking at a Haynes manual for 1980-1991 ford trucks it looks like
my f250 has a "full floating axle assembly".
Has Ford changed any thing since '65 on these drums?
Looks like i need to remove the axle shaft ?
Looking for ideas or who to ask .
if your axel is like the one on my 77 f-350 you must remove the axle and then there is a big nut that you must remove before the drum will come off. It is kinda a pain in the butt cause you have all that 90 weight oil and stuff and you must replace the seal and re-torque the bearings.
NO!!!!! Dont pop the axle out...as you can see I got the same rig....they are a VERY snug fit, but if you sand down the axle edge and run the drums to there and back on to remove whatever crud there may be they do come off easily....Not a knuckle busting job at all. its amazing what a little paint can do as far as keeping the drums on!!!
Mine is all original so the axles can stay put....If you need any other pointers on this give me a shout....
My 1966 F250 has three "Tinnerman" nuts on the face of the rear drums and two on the face of the front. They were a bear to get off, but a torch and impact hammer finally worked. They are short slotted screws that are pretty soft and will shred if you don't use the torch first. Good luck.
But what do you do to separate the axle shaft from the brake drum
besides removing the 8 nuts and lock washers?
A gear puller? A putty knife ? a screw driver?
And where did you get a gasket when you put it back together?
Guy at NAPA didnt have one and suggested RTV gasket sealer.
Thanks, but I have full floating axles. F250.
Ive backed the starwheel all the way back and tapped her with a hammer. Nothing.
Im leaning towards pulling the axles. If I can figure out how to
separate the 8 bolt axle from the drum.
Say do you know any thing about split rims ?
thanks Tim
If you have full floats axles then yes you need to pull axle and remove the two nut (ones a lock nut) and pull the drum and hub off as one. The drum is a press fit to the hub. Are you sure you need a new drum? Or are you just whanting the replace the shoes? If you need to change the drum bring it to an auto machine shop let then press it off the hub. The studs have a long knurrle on them that goes in to the drums stud hole to lock it on.
To get the axle out of the hub can be tough.
After the nuts come off theres ither copper crush washers or tappered split rings that are forces in to the axle to center it. Tap the center of the axle with a hammer that should bounce the axle in and out just a little and get the split wegges to pop. Other wise you need to strike the axle flange from behind the flange with a cold chizle.
Okay guys, educate me a bit...every 3/4 ton truck of any make I have ever worked on, the drums came off same as a car w/o screwing with the axles or hubs. Mine does have those flathead screws like up front(code 24 axle). So, whats the difference between full floating and non floaters???? The only thing I can think of possibly is a drop out pumpkin ....Im all ears guys
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 16-Jun-02 AT 10:51 AM (EST)]
Those "split wedges" are what slowed me down . I,ve never
seen any thing like em before. And they've never been out .
When did they stop using them?
I'm guessing your not supposed to re-use em. I'll be visiting
the boys at NAPA again.
This old truck is really teaching me a few things. Not to mention all
the people I've talked to.
thanks again Tim & son
ps... 44DWARF RULES !
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 17-Jun-02 AT 12:56 PM (EST)]Big trucks still use those spilt wedges. If you think there bad try the dead soft copper sealing washers they use now! The coper crushes in to the threades thus making it imposible to remove with out lots of time.
44Dwarf
PS: yes you reuse them. Gaskets are availible at most "truck" places but most use RTV. I don't like RTV, I'll make paper before using RTV.
A full float axle is one type of rear axle where the axle housing extends all the way out to the wheels, and the wheels are held on bearings fastened to the ends of the housing tubes. (In an ordinary rear axle setup, the rear wheels are held on the car by the axle itself.) The advantage of the full floater is that if the axle breaks, the wheels stay on.
As a "full float" axle, the vehicle's weight does not rest on the axle shafts. The weight rests on the axle housing, which communicates to the ground via a spindle, bearings, the disk brake rotor, the wheel, and the tire.
Think of it like the front axle of a 4x4 the wheel bolts to a hub that rides on bearings that ride on a spindle or stub shaft the driveing power it from the axle wich slide through the middle of the spindle and ataches to the hub with many bolts or studs.
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