Just curious to know what guts I need to upgrade a 65 to power steering. I thought it was 67-72 steering box and pump is a directo bolt on??? Can some one shed some light on this issue.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 25-Jun-02 AT 07:01 PM (EST)]Cory: I'm collecting parts to do the same thing to my'66.
You will need, for direct bolt in, the following:
1. P/S steering column 65/66; (You must use a P/S column because it is shorter than the manual steering type.)
2. Pump and mounting bracket 64 - 78, either the metal can type or the later plastic type will work (don't forget the hoses);
3. Sector 64 - 78, with P/S pitman arm.

I'm told the following may bolt in, but I've not confirmed it. The list here can help on this!
67 - 72 P/S column MAY bolt up. Later ones can me made to fit, but.....
Don't forget, the steering column will need to match your shifting type (manual or auto). If you have a floor shifter in place already, or plan to put one in, then you can use any P/S column you want, just remove the linkage down underneath.
Also, the P/S bracket for A/C is slightly different that the one made for vehicles w/o A/C. Either one will work, but if you use the A/C P/S bracket on a non-A/C motor, you will need to put a spacer between the P/S bracket where it bolts to the head. Couple of washers will do fine. No where else, just where it bolts to the head. If you don't though, your pump won't line up properly.

 

Corey, The 65 - 79 front ends are bolt up exchange. I bought a 76 for my donor, changed my 3 spd to C6 and used the 76 column. I swapped the complete I-beams, not just parts. If you find a donor with the same engine/tranny combo as you either have or want to swap to, that is all that you need.

John, some of your info is not correct, pre 65 will not work, and the column used in the 65/66 was with the bendex gear and is the same length as the non power column. sorry dude
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John

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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

Hey, no problem on the correction, bud, it was a typo I didn't catch. It's more important to get the right info out anyway.
Also, I've seen some '79s with later running gear (2WD only, though, I don't check 4WD) so I stick with '78 as a for sure latest date.
This might be a regional thing, don't know really why.
Do the 78 and earlier steering columns bolt up to the '65 '66 cab? I didn't think they did. If so, then I'm better off than I though I was in my upgrade project!

 

The column to dash clamp on 65 and 66 is different than later models. Not a problem, drill out the spot welds (4) and move it. I have made this swap using Ford parts and honestly believe you are better off using a aftermarket tilt from I-did-it or Flaming River. The Borgeson joint with rubber insulation is also way better than the rag joint. Check old posts for more on this subject. There are column length, horn, TS, 4 way flasher, bearings, linkage, neutral start, back up lights and steering wheel issues here that will keep you busy for days.
William in Atlanta

 

Let me see if I got this right: Curently, my '66 F-100 is manual steering. I can bolt my 3-on-the-tree steering column right up to a '67-'78 powersteering sector? If so, then most of my project's the problems are solved, becasue as William said, there are many other issues with the steering column!
I'm waiting to buy an entire FE powered truck w/power steering, disc brakes and auto trans to do the swap, but I can go ahead and do the p/s upgrade right now, if I can use my standard steering column!
Please, say it IS so!

 

John You will have to have a 3 spd on the column ps column. I saw three in a big yard in eastern NC about 3 months ago. Most trucks with ps are also automatic.
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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

I have a 65 f100. I got a power steering box from a 74 f100 and it hits the coil tower about an inch before its flush with the frame. Did I miss something?


Jonathan

 

Jon, You are talking about a 2wd, right? Both gears use the same bolt holes. If you have a 352, you will need to use the left engine perch from the donor as the top of the gear will hit the perch, but not the spring tower.
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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

I was most concerned with the power steering box itself. Also can you just change the shaft itself? Most of the donor trucks up north here are automatic. mine is a 4 speed. Is the shaft a fixed length or does it have adjustment sleeve? I would prefer to stay with the original column and steering wheel if i can just change the shaft itself.

 

Cory, There are two "shaft length" issues. Firstly manual steer columns are longer than PS columns. You will need a shorter, PS column. The later model steering shafts have a un threaded nub on the upper end. To use your original steering wheel and be able to have the original horn button this nub needs to be removed. Put the shaft in a vice, run the nut on and using a new hacksaw blade saw off the nub. I cut right at or one thread below the nub. Clean things up with a file and take the nut off. Removing the nut will clean up the threads. Reassemble the column, using new bearings, plenty of grease and the collar from your original column (without provision for the shifter). Also be prepared to move the dash clamp from your original column (drill and weld).
William in Atlanta

 

Right on. I will be hitting the pick your nose autowreckers this weekend. there is always a lot of 68-78 stuff there. Thanks for the info guys. Is it possible on 63 for power steering. I don't think so but if there is something that would be cool as well. I have a '63 that has good potential as well.

 

Thanks for the offer! I will certainly take you up on it. E-mail is jspsssjs at bellsouth.net
See my next post, though!