Hoping for some help:

I've got a 1965 F100 with a 351C(4V) conversion, everything is fine except for the Holley on top. It's the 650 Dual Feed, Double-pumper with Manual Choke and Mechanical Secondaries. My problem is the rear float bowl. I've tried adjusting it to no avail and even went as far as putting a q-tip in to see if there was fuel on it. I'm sure that it's getting some fuel when I'm cruising but if I floor it, it does skip (As though it's not getting enough fuel) until I ease off on the throttle and it levels off.

For info: I did try adjusting the float with the engine running and I know that the float level was too high before, I guess I just got carried away in lowering it. Is there any way to get the float atleast to a level where I can see it again to adjust it. I've went ahead and purchased the clear sight plugs (to prevent a catastrophe).

Thanks for any guidance.

 

Sounds like your needle and seat might be stuck. Have you looked at the needle as it sits in the seat? Pull the thing out again and look to see if there is a ridge on the needle. If so you are going to have to buy a new one. If you thightened it too much it wont allow fuel to pass by. Next have you taken the rear fuel bowl off? If not now might be a good time to see if the float is stuck in the up position. Also the clear plugs are a waste of time and money. Best thing to do is to pull the whole fuel bowl off, flip it over and set the needle and seat until the float is level with the inside of the bowl. Then reinstall it and start the truck without the plug installed. the fuel wont shoot out of the bowl if you set the needle and seat right in the last sentence. Also what is the list # on the air horn. This could provide some good info on what size jets and accel pumps you have. Look onthe holley web site for the information concerning your carb. they have the adjustment procedures on there. Much more helpful then what I can type in here. After all they are the experts on their carbs. If all else fails let me know what you found and we can go from there.

 

Sure sounds like your realy low on the rear float. Just put a rag under the site plug and adjust it untill it just weeps out it with motor idleing. Heres a link to the nices carb guy I know. E-mail him he'll help you out.

http://www.parkercarburetion.com

44Dwarf

 

MotorTek has a nice 4bbl Holley tuning page at
http://www.mortec.com/carbtip1.htm
and of course Holley has a good list of tune up parts at
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/FMS/FMSCA/Access.html

My 65 F-100's 352 has an old Holley 4bbl that had lots of problems when I bought the truck, including the power valve and secondary diaphragm being damaged. The power valve(s) in older carbs can be damaged by backfires. Holley has a easy to install ball check valve to avoid this. Also, you might make sure you have the optimum power valves, since some kits aren't optimum for the full list of carbs they service. The secondary diaphragm isn't part of a carb kit, but should also be replaced sometimes. If it's bad, the secondary may not be opening.

You may have more carb than you need for your type of driving. In my case, a heavier secondary spring delayed opening and smoothed out the power transition. The Holley quick change kit for secondary springs sure makes it a lot easier to find the best one in the spring kit they offer.

Finally, I also ended up selecting a different accelerator cam with a longer and taller ramp. It helped with the power hesitation from very low idle speed and gives a nice acceleration boost further up the speed range. Holley has a cam kit with a selection to choose from to suit your driving style.

After doing all the stuff above that I learned about in the MotorTek instructions, I'm really happy with how my carb is performing , both at low idle of 600 rpm, and tromping on it. The only down side is the added rear tire wear.

Mike Swatek
Claremore, OK
58 & 65 F-100 Styleside Custom Cabs
http://www.swatek.com/truck.htm

 

Hey guys, Thanks for all of the Great Replies!!! I did get the float un-stuck, now I just need to lower it a bit. Thanks again for the links and info.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 17-Jul-02 AT 11:39 AM (EST)]Your welcome. That's what we are all here for. To give one another a kick when we need it.

 

Two problems come to mind 1) Your 351C 4V does not breath well under 3000RPM. This means you have to launch at that RPM or higher if the tires will stay on the rims. 2) The fuel in the secondary float bowel is probably sloshing back when you nail it. The truck jumps about 10 feet and takes a @#$% till the gas covers the jets again at wich point your lookin at the other guys taillights. Holley makes a slosh plate that goes inside the float bowel it keeps the jets submerged when doing aggressive starts. Your other option is to get a Carter AFB type carb. I believe Edelbrock carries a user freindly version of this carb. Good luck, Rich.

 

ok my turn i just rebuilt mine and put it back on....I didn't make any adjustments to the idle screws, it started right up and runs but it runs rough...

What should I adjust....idle screw and/or check float level!!!

I did find a needle that was not installed when i put it back together...Judging by the other replies it sounds like the needle should go in before the float adjuster screw...

my kit didn't come with a new float.. but, many gaskets, power valve, and some other accessories...

Need help getting this thing to run smoothly...please note before rebuilding it was running rough at idle and little power at acceleration...

Any help would be appreciated!!!

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 19-Jul-02 AT 01:23 AM (EST)]rayray first make sure all the other stuff is right, firing order, timing, good gas, no vacuum leaks. I assume you followed the instructions to the letter from your carb kit. If you haven't you could have missed or skipped something important. The carb kit instructions should give adjustment procedures but if not go in this order. 1)get it running even at high idle if necessary and adjust your float level-tip dont't remove the float level plug just loosen it. If the level is too high gas will leak out, too low and no leakage. Adjust the level from low to high until it just starts to leak out then back down 1/4 turn. The idle screws need to be adjusted at as low an idle as you can get and still be fairly smooth. Turn the screws in until the engine starts running rough then back out slowly until you get the smoothest idle. You will probably have to jump from side to side several times till you feel it's right. Then set your idle speed to what it should be. If the carb is rebuilt correctly and the adjustments are done right and it still runs rough it may be some other problem. Let us know. We love fixin things without being there. Good luck, Rich. Oh yah if you need more help start a fresh thread.