Stripped Ball Joint Zerk!
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,553
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From: Corpus Christi, TX
Stripped Ball Joint Zerk!
I don't know how...I don't know if it was me or the shop that did my balljoint install, but one of my upper ball joints zerk hole is stripped!! DAAAAGNABBIT!!
The supplied plug is catching on the remaining good threads, but the 90* fitting is just flopping around. I tried another 90* and it screwed in after many failed attempts, but I've got a feeling it's being held in by crossthreading against the remaining threads with good wishes and pixie dust.
I don't think drilling and re-threading the hole is an option, I'm working in a very limited space and I've got no idea what the internals of the BJ is like.
I've heard things of 'press fit' zerks, but I don't know if I'll be able to press it into the hole considering it's already reamed out larger than the standard zerk size.
Got any ideas guys?
(This is a picture of the stripped bj, the fitting is not screwed in just held in by the grease in the BJ.)
The supplied plug is catching on the remaining good threads, but the 90* fitting is just flopping around. I tried another 90* and it screwed in after many failed attempts, but I've got a feeling it's being held in by crossthreading against the remaining threads with good wishes and pixie dust.
I don't think drilling and re-threading the hole is an option, I'm working in a very limited space and I've got no idea what the internals of the BJ is like.
I've heard things of 'press fit' zerks, but I don't know if I'll be able to press it into the hole considering it's already reamed out larger than the standard zerk size.
Got any ideas guys?
(This is a picture of the stripped bj, the fitting is not screwed in just held in by the grease in the BJ.)
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2006
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I just did mine as well. The new ball joints should have came with the plug because the 90* zerk will be hit the U joint. I would say if you are really carefull you could tap it a little bigger with a small tap and the get a bigger plug. If you use a NPT tap you can use a brass plug. I have never done it but just a suggetion. Maybe someone else has a better Idea. Napa does have some bigger zerk fittings or tractor supply places. Not sure if it will work or not. Good luck.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,553
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From: Corpus Christi, TX
I went and bought a zerk fitting set from Harbor Freight earlier, and their 90* plugs don't hit the u-joint yolk...and it's their 90* fittings that are the only ones screwing in. The supplied zerks with the Moog BJ's aren't even contacting the sides of the bore.
The next zerk size up in the kit is a pretty big one, I might have to go back to HF and take a looksee on how big their tap & die sets are, maybe I could cut one down so I can work with it.
Loctite is a good idea, but the current fitting is only being held in place because it is crossthreaded, with my luck I'll have loctite running down my arm while trying to get the fitting to even catch a thread.
Anyone else got any ideas?? It really bites to have BRAND NEW greaseable ball joints, and then not be able to grease them!
The next zerk size up in the kit is a pretty big one, I might have to go back to HF and take a looksee on how big their tap & die sets are, maybe I could cut one down so I can work with it.
Loctite is a good idea, but the current fitting is only being held in place because it is crossthreaded, with my luck I'll have loctite running down my arm while trying to get the fitting to even catch a thread.
Anyone else got any ideas?? It really bites to have BRAND NEW greaseable ball joints, and then not be able to grease them!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,372
Likes: 14
From: West Cornwall, CT
Depending on the thread type on that zerk fitting, you may find one that will fit well enough to allow the joints to be greased. Zerks come with both PTF, NPTF, NPT and SAE-LT cut threads. An alternate might just thread into that partially stipped hole.
When you know for sure what thread size you have, look up zerk fittings on Mc-Master Carr's web site (mcmaster.com) to see what might fit.
I would avoid drilling and tapping into a ball joint both because of access to the joint and the probability of getting metal chips into the joint. Drive-in zerk fittings require drilling the right size hole and also need good access to drive them in with the correct tool and a hammer.
Luo Braun
When you know for sure what thread size you have, look up zerk fittings on Mc-Master Carr's web site (mcmaster.com) to see what might fit.
I would avoid drilling and tapping into a ball joint both because of access to the joint and the probability of getting metal chips into the joint. Drive-in zerk fittings require drilling the right size hole and also need good access to drive them in with the correct tool and a hammer.
Luo Braun
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 495
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From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Worst case you can pull the hub and axle shaft and then be able to get at the upper ball joint to retap if necessary. Since it has been taken apart recently everything should come apart fairly easy.
John
John
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 221
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From: USA
Brass shim stock. Can be bought at some auto parts stores, hardware stores, machine shops. It comes in different thickness. Cut a piece and wrap it around the threads of the zerk fitting and screw it in. It will increase the diameter of the zerk fitting, hopefully enough to secure it. Old Indian mechanic trick. Other materials can be used as well but brass is the best. If you can’t find any let me know and I’ll mail you a piece. Drop the first and last letters from my email ccarv@gte.nett I am leaving for the Grand in Sparta, IL and won’t be back until the 22nd. You might try aluminum foil if you can’t wait for my return. Hope this helps.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,553
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From: Corpus Christi, TX
Lou Braun,
Thanks for the McMaster website, dang they got a lot of other cool stuff! I think thats one of my options, finding a zerk that is just a little bigger than the hole and screwing it in there. McMaster is the place to find it for sure!!
jtmerritt,
Taking everything apart is what I'm trying to avoid, I didn't have the time to take everything apart, I still don't have any time...never seem to have time for anything anymore!...so a whole front end disassemble is my last resort.
Autobahn,
I think she's teething...the ticker is almost at 100k and she's having growing pains.
CARV,
Excellent suggestion! That sounds like a solution! Those old Indians sure did know their stuff, huh?
vettdvr,
The problem fitting is staying in place after a day and a half of driving over rough roads...so...yeah, if it doesn't pop off when I put the grease gun on it, I think I'll leave it be.
THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP GUYS! THE FTE COMMUNITY IS THE BEST!!
Thanks for the McMaster website, dang they got a lot of other cool stuff! I think thats one of my options, finding a zerk that is just a little bigger than the hole and screwing it in there. McMaster is the place to find it for sure!!
jtmerritt,
Taking everything apart is what I'm trying to avoid, I didn't have the time to take everything apart, I still don't have any time...never seem to have time for anything anymore!...so a whole front end disassemble is my last resort.
Autobahn,
I think she's teething...the ticker is almost at 100k and she's having growing pains.
CARV,
Excellent suggestion! That sounds like a solution! Those old Indians sure did know their stuff, huh?
vettdvr,
The problem fitting is staying in place after a day and a half of driving over rough roads...so...yeah, if it doesn't pop off when I put the grease gun on it, I think I'll leave it be.
THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP GUYS! THE FTE COMMUNITY IS THE BEST!!
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