I began installing the kit described yesterday and what was quoted as a 3 hour job turned into 8 yesterday. That was for the passenger side. I spent the better part of 3.5 hours alone trying to pry the rear spring eye to meet the shackle hole with a number of cheater pipes, pry bars, wedges, screw drivers and i think i even used my cell phone at one point. I might mention that this is a complete spring replacement. While I am not a mechanic, I know my way around a garage having done 100% of my truck modifications myself, which are approaching extensive. The install of the front bolt and spring perch while not really fun, was not that difficult. IT is the rear shackle alignment that is troubing.

My questions for you guys is this. Is there a tool, or method to doing this install that is not mentioned in the instructions for getting the eyelette to line up in the shackle. Someone out here has done this install themselves i'm certain, and I'm dying to know whether it is just a booger or whether i'm missing an easier method of this install. BTW it is a 2.5 inch rough country leveling kit.

 

I havent done the leveling kit on mine and dont know if your having trouble on the up and down or the front to back alingment but I have used a scissor jack between the frame and the spring to help the up and down lining up on alot of the other lift kits I have put on. I find it helps to have an assortment of bottle scissor and floor jacks when your doing spring work alone. can help save knuckles from slipping pry bars too

 

i have done this a few times so i should know.

listen up.

when i put on my leveling kit i disconnected the springs from the axle first, and let the axle dangle above two floor jacks, and the panhard rod and the drag link. then remove the calipers and securely tie them to the frame (dont dangle them off the lines). i used heavy duty zip ties that had a 50 pound rating each. then lower the axle down (will fall in a radius due to the panhard rod). . then loosen the lower shackle bolt and the front pivot bolt. remove the front bolt and allow the spring to hang there. be careful those stock springs are surprisingly heavy. then if you had a helper it would be alot easier(i didnt, and i did this when i was 15 ) remove the back bolt while cradling the spring with your lap/knees. then slide the spring back to the rear of the truck. now that i go down and re-read i guess you already have the springs out.

the new springs, mount the front end of the spring, the bigger end of the coil around the eye to the front i believe. since there will be nothing holding the spring from moving, it will be easy to lift it up and slide the bolt into the shackle. start the nuts so the bolt will not fall out accidentally but do not tighten them. that is the easy part. now raise the axle up, and try to seat the alignment dowel on the bottom of the spring. disconnecting the driveshaft may help (8mm bolts) i got one side in fairly easy. remember the panhard rod will prevent the axle from moving side to side, so dont waste your time pushing or pulling on the axle to help move the spring in place. what i had to do was secure two ratchet straps to the spring and ratchet the spring towards the dowel hole. dont exactly remember but looking back i see that putting light upward pressure on the spring will help pull the axle farther right so it will be easier to get the springs in their hole. do not put the weight of the truck on the springs because you wont be able to push the springs over, been there done that. once the dowel gets seated then put the shock mount on the top of the spring and get the u-bolts started and snug. dont really tighten them up, just prevent them from slipping out again, you worked that hard to get them in.

the ideal thing would be to disconnect the upper bolt at the panhard rod. when i did the second go-around and did the spring hanger lift, i had to replace the upper mount and it was a massive drop bracket. the axle moved freely to line up the pins, and once the u-bolts were snug i could jack up the axle and put as much pressure i wanted on the springs so the bolt would slide right on through. however i only see it necessary if the ratchet strap method wont work.

sorry for the book.

 

i remember doing that...

 

thats pretty close to the way I do it, with the following exceptions...

I leave one side u-bolts loosely connected, so the axle stays centered but is still moveable.
I usually disconect the sway-bay end links, just easier than fighting it @ the spring plates.
I disconnect the panhard bar (at the bottom bolt), makes manuvering the axle easier.
I've never had to disconect the d-line, at least up to a 6" lift.
Brake lines will not be a problem for a leveling kit, 4" and up I remove the calipers.

So heres my tips...
Install front bolt first.
Loosely start new ubolts, use a floor jack to apply some tension between spring center pin and axle, use some muscle and you should be able to get the pin to drop in.
Rear shackle... loosen upper bolt, make sure the shakle moves freely.
If the spring won't reach the shackle because of arch, you'll have to use the floor jack to flatten the spring some, should be easier then.

My guess with your troubles would be too many things tight/hooked up. Loosen ubolts, disconect swaybar and trackbar. That should ease the process.

 

oops! double post...