hello well i am starting to build a new 460 and i want something that will hold up 2 around 9000 rpm's and about 800-900 hp and want around 13.75-14.50 compression i have c8ve-e heads they r ported and have the bigger valves i am gonna do alot more work to them to get them to flow even more i am haveing a hard time finding dome pistons that will work with a 76cc head and a 680 lift cam i am also in the prosess of getting a custom ground cam with a possibly 720 lift i just want a good bottom end that will hold up i need a crank rods and pistons i would like to find a kit can anyone help thanxs

 

9000 RPM in a 460! I've never heard of such a thing personally, and I would definitely stand far away from the truck when the crazy person went for it.

 

I wouldnt even attempt it without aluminum heads

 

i know of a few that hit 8000-8200 with cast heads i am not saying i will run it at 9000 i just want it to hold up if i do i gotta give the bow ties a run for it the big block chevys are hitting in that 8500-9000 range and i am gonna be milling my exaust side down kinda like roush didi with the small blocks back in the day i have seen it done and seems to work very well and it cures fords crappy exust ports so dose any one know of a good piston and crank and rods for a fair price and is forged the way to go or hypers? i have wrecked them both so i dont rilly know

 

The best thing you can do is find some truck pullers. They have those high winding combos down.

Off the top of my head....you're going to need a forged crank, aluminum rods, forged pistons, splayed four bolt mains, and iron CJ heads with the exhaust ports milled off and an aftermarket plate installed....if you have to stay with factory heads. Otherwise EX-514 heads are the way to go, in iron or aluminum.

 

you should be able to get your h.p. goal with out spinning it that hard.i dout you'll get it with those heads tho.blue thunders,a-460 trickflows,or the ex's.if you have your heart set on those rpm's get an eliminator block.stock block,filled ,would last a little while.

 

9000 rpms is not uncommon with the pullers (I beleive Terry was consistantly spinning his to 9600 rpm and even hit 10500 a couple of times). You are going to have to go with atleast a forged crank, and I am not sure you can get one of the chinese forging in stock stroke yet so probably Bryant is going to be you main option right now. I have thier number around here if you decide to go that way, or call Lem he has it too. Personally I would go with Oliver billet rods, not a fan of alum rods for this application, but the crower billets would work too. If I recall you already have an A460 block (correct me if I am wrong on that) if not get one or an IDT block.
The heads aren't going to support that tpe of rpm's they just won't flow enough and I doubt seriously they will support that much HP, the best I have heard Scott J get was mid 700 range and he is about as good as they come on the factory Iron but possibly with a set of CJ or PI heads maxed out.
For pistons your going to have to go custom, diamond can probably do it, or JE would be the better choice in this application to me. Make sure you get them lightened you want to reduce that weight, but your going to have to probably send whatever heads you use to them so they can scan the combustion chambers to make the dome fit correctly.
On the cam I would get the heads figured out before ordering it, you want to have flow sheets and match the lift to that.

 

He could also use a forged factory 429 crank, offset with 2.2 journals and BBC rods. I think that's what Terry did. My thinking with aluminum rods is that they'll reduce the shock load to the crank and block, but they will need to be changed on a regular basis. As for the iron heads, I think it was Bret that had the iron CJ's with the factory ex ports cut off. I forget the name of the plate that gets bolted in there, but that's how he did it with factory heads. I seriously doubt DOVE's will get there.

 

You can get close to 800HP and 9,000 rpm with a set of iron CJ's. Bret didn't use the port plates but did braze the floors of the exhaust ports to fill them. He has spent ALOT of time on that set of heads and having a flow bench helps also. Diamond has a domed piston for a iron head that will get you real close to 15:1. They are not cheap ,but nothing is when you get to this point. The 429 truck crank will work fine. I will post a video of Terry's truck turning 10,500 when the rear end tore loose.

 

Darn it Carl, you beat me to it, I was going to suggest using the factory 429 forged truck crank when I got home. So to elaborate on that a little, I would then use the 6.7" rod, or the 6.8 either will work in this application. for the 6.7" you just have the piston built with the comp hieght at 1.675 and then deck the block to a true 10.300 hieght. (for 6.8" rod just reduce that by .100) Then with the 72cc chambers of a CJ head you would need a 9.25cc dome, or mill the heads by about .012 to reduce the chamber to 70cc and use a 7.25cc dome (about .180 high is all but the piston company has the calc to figure that out).
Or another possibility if you do go with an aftermarket block, leave the 429 stroke of 3.59" cut the journals down to the 2.200 BBC rod size, run a 6.8" rod, get your compression hieght to 1.705 on the pistons, with a 4.5" bore, and a 9cc dome (with the heads cut to a 70cc chamber) and you have 457cid so still under the cubic inch limit, and a 14.05:1 compression with a short stroke big bore motor that will spin some serious rpms with reduced piston speed, and less cylinder wall valve shrouding.
And yes I am pretty sure it was Brett that had the iron CJs with the ports done that way, I am thinking it's going to take the CJ heads to accomplish this goal.
And for the guys that are suggesting alum heads, this is a class rule issue, he is CID limited and factory head limited.

 

I had my 429 truck crank offset ground to a longer stroke and with a 4.420 bore have a 463 cu. I used a 7.100 rod and a piston pin height of 1.308 but if I had it to do again I would go with a 6.8. You will also need a cam that has alot more lift than .680.

 

thanxs guys i have been doing alot of work trying to find a good roating assembly and tell me what ya think of cast steel crank? i did find a roatating assembly that has scat hbeams i personaly like the hbeams and je flat top pistons ans a scat cast steel crank i am also in the prosess of d portion the ext ports i thinik it will be easier than milling the ext side off it is rillt time consoming but worth it but to get the bottom end built right i was thinking about this kit is priced good and it is 13-5 comp i was impressed for a flat top and i can still get a bit more with some head shaving over the off seson i might not be able to hit 9000 but i hope to run in the mid 8000 i want to build the ultamit but the old pocket book is getting thin so i think i should get the bottom end built right and relible and slowly rework the top end for better flow

 

Most of the cast steel cranks are rated right around 6-700hp, I am running one but I also don't expect it to live forever, it seems at the 900hp level they tend to live about 200 or so passes. The eagle and scat Hbeams seem to survive ok at the 8000rpm mark ok but I am not sure how much past that I would run them. The JE pistons are a good choice and will take whatever you hand out, but I would definatly pay the extra $13 per piston to have them lightened, one it makes it easier to balance, and 2 it makes less stress on the rotating assembly. basically at a minimum I would find a forged crank be it high dollar bryant, a reworked 429 truck unit or one of the newer import units that are hittng the marked, they are good to 1200hp or so and will last you a lot longer and still under $1000. And get ahold of an aftermarket block, it's hard on teh pocket book, but with the 4 bolt mains, and priority main oiling they are worth the money. Yes you can get by with a factory block heck I am running a D9TE block and it's surviving but I have a A460 block in the garage for the next motor. You asked about a bullet proof bottem end, so don't cheap out. will the cast crank factory block work? yeah for awhile, when I put this one together I didn't expect it to live forever and it won't, I wish I had spent the money the first time but didn't have it so now I am spending it again. Just my 02 cents worth.

 

If you take some time rounding up parts you can get some bargains. When I built my motor I got the block and truck crank for free. The block was a DOVE 2-bolt that had a spun main,so the guy thought it was junk. I was gonna install 4-bolt billit caps so it was gonna need a line bore anyway. Caps cost $280 with a $250 line bore and line hone. $530 and I have a GOOD block. I installed the caps myself so that saved probably $300.

The crankshaft came from a motor that was in a local propane truck and had lost oil pressure. I tore the bottom end apart and found a spun rod bearing. This didn't matter because the rod journals were turned to 2.200 and offset ground to stroke it some. Total cost $250.

I over built my short block for the class that I'm in,but when I want to jump up and turn it in the 8,500 rpm range it's ready.

There are guys around here still using 2-bolt blocks and factory cast cranks and they last quite awhile.

 

I uploaded two videos of Terry's truck when it had a factory 4-bolt block, factory cast crank and iron CJ heads. Turn up the volume it sounds SWEET!

The video were he goes though the gate is when the rear axle tore loose and it turned 10,500 RPM.

http://www.putfile.com/72puller