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E150 5.0 Stumbling Problem
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E150 5.0 Stumbling Problem
Greetings. I own a '94 E150 conversion van, 5.0, 4 speed auto trans, 115,000 miles. Had a complete tune up 2 years/5,000 miles ago. It has recently developed an occaional stumble while idling and at normal highway speeds. The stumble happens more and more frequently. My mechanic is perplexed. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.
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New User
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The engine light has not come on. I was told that there are no codes to be read in a '94 Ford van. Also told I could spend a lot of money and still have the problem and that it will have to get worse before it can be diagnosed, meaning I might be getting towed back to the shop, unfortunately.
Last edited by ajmr2; Aug 7, 2006 at 07:11 PM.
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2006
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Check Engine Light (CEL)
You can definitely read codes on a 1994 Ford Van (I have 1994 E150 5.0L and I've checked the codes myself). Prior to 1996 cars used OBD I (On-Board Diagnostic I). Newer cars have OBD II which more people are familiar with and which use modern code readers. You can check the OBD I codes on your van using a piece of wire and a test light (or analog volt meter). There are two connectors under your hood you need to access but it's a simple process. Here's a diagram of the connectors...
http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
and here's a link to how to read the codes...
http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenan...-koeokoer.html
Also, not all codes turn on your check-engine light (CEL). Intermitent problems with the throttle position sensor, cylinder misfires, etc., may not turn on the light even if the computer detects them and sets a code. Lastly, your check engine light may not work. If you turn the key to "ON" (without the cranking the engine) it should come on. If not, it's burned out or disconnected.
http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
and here's a link to how to read the codes...
http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenan...-koeokoer.html
Also, not all codes turn on your check-engine light (CEL). Intermitent problems with the throttle position sensor, cylinder misfires, etc., may not turn on the light even if the computer detects them and sets a code. Lastly, your check engine light may not work. If you turn the key to "ON" (without the cranking the engine) it should come on. If not, it's burned out or disconnected.
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Joined: Nov 2004
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hello,
first make sure there is no mis or crossfire from the sp wires.
they're prone to melting in the tight compartment. look and listen for sparking in a dark spot.
i'm suffeing from a similar issue with my 302. tps could be your issue but the map or maf sensor i'm leaning towards on mine.
check fordfuelinjection.com for info on how these sensors work and how to pull codes without a reader.
you can get a "sunpro" odb-1 code reader on ebay for under ten bucks. worth the investment.
something needs cleaning or replacement. hope its minor. idle issues are usually tune-up, tps. iac, map or maf issues.
good luck
first make sure there is no mis or crossfire from the sp wires.
they're prone to melting in the tight compartment. look and listen for sparking in a dark spot.
i'm suffeing from a similar issue with my 302. tps could be your issue but the map or maf sensor i'm leaning towards on mine.
check fordfuelinjection.com for info on how these sensors work and how to pull codes without a reader.
you can get a "sunpro" odb-1 code reader on ebay for under ten bucks. worth the investment.
something needs cleaning or replacement. hope its minor. idle issues are usually tune-up, tps. iac, map or maf issues.
good luck
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
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I had similar symptoms in my '90 5.0. It progressively got worse until it finally triggered the CEL and barely would run at all. Turned out the MAP sensor was bad.
Any half-decent garage with computer diagnostics should be able to tell which part is going bad. Generally a lot cheaper than throwing parts (money) at the problem and hoping you get lucky.
Any half-decent garage with computer diagnostics should be able to tell which part is going bad. Generally a lot cheaper than throwing parts (money) at the problem and hoping you get lucky.
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I am having the same type of problem om my 2000 Ford E-150,4.2,98k !
I had Auto Zone check the CEL for codes . They said crank sensor . I replaced the sensor 3 times so far !
Last week the van showes a cam sensor code? Replaced that . Same problem ?
I can hear the engine rpm coming through the radio at times . It runs fine when cold . When it warms up ,The problems start . Replaced wires and plugs also . Any ideas?
I had Auto Zone check the CEL for codes . They said crank sensor . I replaced the sensor 3 times so far !
Last week the van showes a cam sensor code? Replaced that . Same problem ?
I can hear the engine rpm coming through the radio at times . It runs fine when cold . When it warms up ,The problems start . Replaced wires and plugs also . Any ideas?
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,182
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From: Saint Augustine, FL
I think racinrob is probably got it nailed. If the spark plug wires are not correctly routed and grouped (using a loom) then they will crosstalk and cause a miss. This won't always set a code either.
New wires won't do this but after a few thousand miles they certainly will. There should be a diagram on the radiator core support under the hood that shows proper wire routing. Ford also has a TSB out on it.
Steve
'95 Clubwagon XLT
New wires won't do this but after a few thousand miles they certainly will. There should be a diagram on the radiator core support under the hood that shows proper wire routing. Ford also has a TSB out on it.
Steve
'95 Clubwagon XLT
