Thermostat Question
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Thermostat Question
Hi guys and gals; thanks for all the previous information on the radiator back flush. Now I have everything drained and disassembled and I have a thermostat problem. Our '99 7.3 TD has a 195* thermostat but while doing research, I found this article
https://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=186
about how much better the 7.3 will perform with a "203*" thermostat. According to the article, following the advertisement, the 195 is robbing power and efficiency. Can/will someone comment on the truth of this article?
Also, my Ford Stealership is closed today and I bought a thermostat from NAPA. The one I removed has a hollow brass fitting in the flange with a small, inclosed BB; I suppose for release of air to prevent cavitation. The one from NAPA doesn't have this fitting. I called a couple of other places and had the clerk examine their therm. and they were the same; no fitting.
Question: Is the fitting necessary?
Also, another article about changing water pumps, mentioned when replacing the thermostat, make sure the 'arrow' is pointing to the rear of the engine. When I removed mine, it was pointed to the front and the fitting was at the rear.
Question: Does it matter?
Sorry for the long post:
1. Would it be beneficial for me to order the 203 thermostat?
2. Is the brass fitting necessary?
3. Does it matter which way the thermostat is installed?
https://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=186
about how much better the 7.3 will perform with a "203*" thermostat. According to the article, following the advertisement, the 195 is robbing power and efficiency. Can/will someone comment on the truth of this article?
Also, my Ford Stealership is closed today and I bought a thermostat from NAPA. The one I removed has a hollow brass fitting in the flange with a small, inclosed BB; I suppose for release of air to prevent cavitation. The one from NAPA doesn't have this fitting. I called a couple of other places and had the clerk examine their therm. and they were the same; no fitting.
Question: Is the fitting necessary?
Also, another article about changing water pumps, mentioned when replacing the thermostat, make sure the 'arrow' is pointing to the rear of the engine. When I removed mine, it was pointed to the front and the fitting was at the rear.
Question: Does it matter?
Sorry for the long post:
1. Would it be beneficial for me to order the 203 thermostat?
2. Is the brass fitting necessary?
3. Does it matter which way the thermostat is installed?
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I just checked the link and it doesn't work. Go to the main site: Dieselsite.com
https://www.dieselsite.com, click on the top, left category: "Dieselsite Products"; and then scroll through the pictures on the right to the 5th one, "203 thermostat".
https://www.dieselsite.com, click on the top, left category: "Dieselsite Products"; and then scroll through the pictures on the right to the 5th one, "203 thermostat".
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Central, Al
Cuda just got mine in 2 weeks ago from dieselsite with the billet housing. that air bleed is to prevent cavitation and needs to be there if it isnt i doubt that t-stat was made for a powerstroke. as the t-stat opens the brass rod extends and closes the bypass disk... without this not all of the coolant will flow through the radiator when hot
"In 1996, Ford changed to a lower degree 195 thermstostat. They changed water pump designs at this time as well. The new pumps required the new long stem 195 thermostat in place of the short stem to properly seat the bypass disk." from DieselSite
"In 1996, Ford changed to a lower degree 195 thermstostat. They changed water pump designs at this time as well. The new pumps required the new long stem 195 thermostat in place of the short stem to properly seat the bypass disk." from DieselSite
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Thanks guys; I appreciate the comments. I'm contemplating ordering this t/stat tomorrow. Can/will anyone else weigh in on pros or cons about the 203 and importance of the arrow pointed to the front or rear?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: 21791
the 203* thermostat is one of those mods that is "cool to have" and it sets a Ford Truck Owner apart from a Ford Truck Enthusiast.
true, the 195* thermostat does not let the oil temp get that hot, however the hotter they run closer to 200*, the more efficient they are. the 203* thermostat can help with this, because if the coolant temp is raised, naturally the engine temp will raise with it as well.
however if you have to replace the thermostat, why not go ahead and do it. i have the stock thermostat and housing if you want it. free you take it. i wanted to do the 203* thermostat just so i could say i have it, and i did the billet housing.
go ahead, spend the money for it. if you go with a stock one you will always wonder why you didnt just do it to begin with.
true, the 195* thermostat does not let the oil temp get that hot, however the hotter they run closer to 200*, the more efficient they are. the 203* thermostat can help with this, because if the coolant temp is raised, naturally the engine temp will raise with it as well.
however if you have to replace the thermostat, why not go ahead and do it. i have the stock thermostat and housing if you want it. free you take it. i wanted to do the 203* thermostat just so i could say i have it, and i did the billet housing.
go ahead, spend the money for it. if you go with a stock one you will always wonder why you didnt just do it to begin with.
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Thanks Strokin; I appreciate the input. Yes, I'll go ahead and order the 203 tomorrow. My biggest problem is that when I start a job, I want to finish the job. Now, the top of my e-350 is off, coolant drained, housing and thermostat removed........and now I wait for 4 - 5 days to get the t/stat. But that's ok; I think the result will be worth it.
I pull a 10k t/trailer (yes, I know it's a little overloaded), but it does really well in Wyoming and Colorado mountains. About 8 mpg is average, but it only gets about 13 with no load. So if the 'optimum' performance of added temp is beneficial, I'll take all I can get (LOL). Thanks again.
clev
I pull a 10k t/trailer (yes, I know it's a little overloaded), but it does really well in Wyoming and Colorado mountains. About 8 mpg is average, but it only gets about 13 with no load. So if the 'optimum' performance of added temp is beneficial, I'll take all I can get (LOL). Thanks again.
clev
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Post Fiend
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From: Central, Al
Clev where are you, Dieselsite is in FL. i had mine in 2 days with normal shipping. they are generally pretty fast
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Post Fiend
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From: MICHIGAN
Originally Posted by amiller93
Cuda just got mine in 2 weeks ago from dieselsite with the billet housing. that air bleed is to prevent cavitation and needs to be there if it isnt i doubt that t-stat was made for a powerstroke. as the t-stat opens the brass rod extends and closes the bypass disk... without this not all of the coolant will flow through the radiator when hot
"In 1996, Ford changed to a lower degree 195 thermstostat. They changed water pump designs at this time as well. The new pumps required the new long stem 195 thermostat in place of the short stem to properly seat the bypass disk." from DieselSite
"In 1996, Ford changed to a lower degree 195 thermstostat. They changed water pump designs at this time as well. The new pumps required the new long stem 195 thermostat in place of the short stem to properly seat the bypass disk." from DieselSite
The billet housing is just for the NBS trucks, right? My OBS has the long water neck
. Hmmm? Wonder if I could swap one with a new upper hose??
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Hi a93. I live in CentralTexas and UPS/FedEx usually takes 4 - 5 days from anywhere. However, I've just ordered the t/stat and got a UPS shipping number with delivery in 3 days; that'll be Wed. or Thurs.
Also, can you (or anyone) tell me if it's important which way the fitting or or arrow is facing when I install it? My OEM, when removed, was backwards to the instructions that I've read.
Also, can you (or anyone) tell me if it's important which way the fitting or or arrow is facing when I install it? My OEM, when removed, was backwards to the instructions that I've read.
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My OEM has the brass fitting pointing to the rear bolt and there is a stamped arrow pointing between the front two bolts. This article:
http://www.diesel-central.com/News/waterpump.htm
mentions placing the arrow to point towards the rear bolt. According to this, mine was in backwards. According to dieselsite, their 203 has a 'v' notch for air release. Do you know if they specify which way the notch is pointing? I have an e-mail into them but have not received a reply.
You wrote that you installed it according to OEM. Looking at the picture, there are no defining marks on the t/stat. Are you referring to the 'dome' pointed front and rear? I apologize if I appear to be making a big deal out of this, but I'm adamant about details and specifications; I measure and torque everything and everything goes back in the same way it came out.
Thanks for all your input
Clev
http://www.diesel-central.com/News/waterpump.htm
mentions placing the arrow to point towards the rear bolt. According to this, mine was in backwards. According to dieselsite, their 203 has a 'v' notch for air release. Do you know if they specify which way the notch is pointing? I have an e-mail into them but have not received a reply.
You wrote that you installed it according to OEM. Looking at the picture, there are no defining marks on the t/stat. Are you referring to the 'dome' pointed front and rear? I apologize if I appear to be making a big deal out of this, but I'm adamant about details and specifications; I measure and torque everything and everything goes back in the same way it came out.
Thanks for all your input
Clev
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amiller, another question please. In your picture, there is a hose to left of the t/stat seat going into the top of the water pump. I have the same hose on my van and there is another one, not pictured, that goes into the left side of the engine, which appears to be the cylinder head (close quarters, not clearly visible). For the installation of the back-flush 'T', is the one going to the cylinder head the heater hose?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Central, Al
Clev, the OEM need to have the arrow pointing back so that the air bleed (BB Valve) is toward the front. That way since the engine is tilted back a few degrees the air will evacuate before entering the block. the 203 stat does not have this type of air bleed and orientation does not matter.
I'm not really sure which hose you are refering to but if its the one on the passenger side of the block then yes.
I'm not really sure which hose you are refering to but if its the one on the passenger side of the block then yes.