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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
View Poll Results: Slam It, Jam It, or Save It
Slam It (DJM Lowering Kit; 2" & 5")
23.81%
Jam It (Summit Headers, "Converterless" Y-Pipe, Electric Fan, Cherry Bomb)
61.90%
Save It (Save the Moolah)
14.29%
Voters: 21. You may not vote on this poll

Slam It or Jam It?

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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 05:11 PM
  #1  
Nightrain's Avatar
Nightrain
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Talking Slam It or Jam It?

Okay, I'm at a stand-still...

Blacky is still out back in the shop torn down, getting her complete make-over. Radiator support and all of the front end, minus the stone deflector, is back on, (We're saving it 'til last so we can get a good sand and coat of paint on it).

Anyway, at the moment, I'm waiting on LMC Truck to send me the CORRECT rear window rubber back. So until then, I'm looking at some other things to do.

Other than installing the new solid back glass, some final stages of body work, and some wetsanding, we're ready to paint. But until then, I want to find us something else that'll give us a day's-worth of work to do.

But, I'm calling on you fellers for help on this one...

I was snooping around Summit today, and stumbled across some 5.0L headers for our trucks for $150 a pair. I know that's cheap, but hey... I'm cheap. lol. Anyway, my converters are already gutted, so this would be a nice step-up in performance. While the factory Y-Pipe was out during the header installation, a quick trip to the local muffler shop, and both of the converter shells could be removed. Although, I plan on having a piece of pipe inserted and welded into the 2nd converter so that I *appear* to still have a converter.

I want to tie all of that off with a Cherry Bomb glasspack and maybe an electric fan conversion, hoping to add about 25 extra ponies, if I'm lucky.

Or, the other route...

A DJM lowering kit, which consists of 2" front drop springs and a 4" rear shackle and spring hanger kit. Both are going to cost me about the same in the long run, which is somewhere in the neighborhood of $500.

The truck is already lowered 2" in the rear, and I like the look with the 275/60/15's that are on it now. But, lower is still a possibility...

To give ya'll an idea of what she'll look like in the end, she's going to be completely black. No chrome door handles, front end, bumpers, windshield trim, etc... All black, except for the factory "5-Fin" wheels, (See gallery).

So, what do ya'll think?... Slam it or Jam it?

... Or save the $500 for a rainy day. lol.

Poll closes at 12:00 A.M. CST on 08/07/2006. (That way, I can get it ordered.)

Nightrain
 

Last edited by Nightrain; Aug 4, 2006 at 05:19 PM.
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 06:07 PM
  #2  
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MRL123
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From: Wetaskiwin, Alberta
Dude! What are you thinking of for the electric fan(s)? I just installed two 14" Hayden fans with an adjustable temp sensor to fire them up. I'm pretty happy with the set up so far, at least the motor seems to stay running cool although I haven't really stressed it with any extensive hot weather idling or such. The one thing I'd suggest is that you consider the alternator loads - you may want to upgrade to a 130 amp. if you don't already have one on board. Your project sounds awesome and I am looking forward to seeing the finished product!

Cheers!

Mike
 
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 06:32 PM
  #3  
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From: Dixie - Tennessee
Thanks for the vote, Mike!

I was debating on going with either a Flex-A-Lite Single or Dual.

You can view the Single here: Clicky Clicky

You can view the Dual here: Clicky Clicky

Only thing is, I'm not sure if the dual will work yet, as I'm not sure if I have the 34" radiator or not...

Either way, I think that either will work fine. They are both supposed to fit my truck with no modifications, and they already come with all of the wiring and appropriate sensors.

I'll be sure to post pics when she's all done.

Nightrain
 
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 06:38 PM
  #4  
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From: Dixie - Tennessee
Correction:

Poll closes on 08/06/2006 at 5:13 P.M. CST.

Nightrain
 
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 11:31 PM
  #5  
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surewhynot
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I like to get the under hood work done and out of the way before a vehicle is painted (less chance of "oops I scratched it") so I voted jam it. If you save the money you might end up blowing it on something crazy like bills. As far as slamming it, if you like the stance it has now, wait and see if you want it lower in the future. Just my 2 cents.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2006 | 01:17 AM
  #6  
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From: Dixie - Tennessee
Thanks for all the votes!

I was pretty-well decided on the under-hood goodies in the first place, but wanted to get a second opinion. I had the DJM kit sitting in my living room floor at one point when we first started the tear-down, but I sent it back to Stylin' Concepts to provide boot for some other stuff that I THOUGHT I wanted to do...

Before she's painted, I've gotta pull the transmission to put in a new rear seal, so that will make all of the under-hood installation easier all and all.

I actually thought of also installing a lower rear gear and a traction-lock "slip" unit, but we'll see how that goes over the next week...

Ain't it funny how everything always ends up being TRIPLE what it was *supposed* to start out as?

lol.

Nightrain
 
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Old Aug 5, 2006 | 09:58 AM
  #7  
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From: Dixie - Tennessee
Anyone ever seen an F-150 with side-pipes?

I was pondering with this idea last night, but can't find any picures... lol.

I'm not talking about the kind wrapped in the fiberglass, either...

I'm talking about the true chrome or stainless-steel pipes running down the sides of the truck, preferably without the "guards" or "heat-shields".

Sounds oh so good!

A little out of the ordinary, though... But, I bet it would be mean lookin'! Not that I'm thinking about it or anything...

Still looks like the winning vote goes to "Jam It", but only tomorrow will tell...

Thanks for all of the votes, and the advice, once again, fellas!

Nightrain
 
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Old Aug 5, 2006 | 04:11 PM
  #8  
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lvin4jc
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From: Rapid City, SoDak
LOL, you asked guys on here if they would recommend saving money vs. spending it on the truck, L-O-L As far as the electric fan, i tried one on my 302 and i didn't feel any extra ponies at all, after about a month i pulled it off and put the stock one back on.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2006 | 04:32 PM
  #9  
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From: Dixie - Tennessee
Couldn't tell it helped any, eh?

I kinda thought about it myself. Back in the day, I thought up all of this stuff that was *supposed* to help save gas.

After I added the price of everything up, I just decided to save the moolah to buy lots of gas... lol.

I probably turned out better doing that, anyway...

I might swap out the electric fan for an MSD Ignition Box. Think I'll feel some ponies there??

lol.

Nightrain
 
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Old Aug 5, 2006 | 06:25 PM
  #10  
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I guess I am kinda old school but I like the lowered look. It should have a little rake toward the front tho. I have always been more toward the visual custom side of things (wheels, paint, sheetmetal mods, that kind of thing). However, it should run good also. Any mechanical work should be done before paint to avoid the +<<>(*&&^ that always happen. Good luck with your project.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2006 | 11:43 PM
  #11  
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dont get summit headers, absolute ****, and the manifolds dont even really have any restriction, measure it. and it made my exhaust quieter
 
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Old Aug 6, 2006 | 12:25 AM
  #12  
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I would be hesitant on either of those fans you posted, especially since you live in TN. I'm basing this off of their CFM rating that is advertised.
I have installed Summit headers on a Chevy and two Fords and they all made noticeable power increases. However, the fit can be a gamble with the bolts, and the paint will burn off quickly, leaving exposed metal...you get what you pay for, but they do work well. The Summit headers can be stripped and repainted/coated if you have the time and that will help extend the life.
Also, In my experience, I haven't seen an aftermarket ignition system gain anything worth while on a stock application, unless the previous ignition was faulty. I still run my stock ignition system with my blower. I do have an aftermarket coil for the colder plugs I'm running, but that's it: stock distributor, rotor, pickup and ignition module.
Another "free" mod you can do is to advance the base timing a few degrees; you should definately notice that alone.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2006 | 02:17 AM
  #13  
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There's a feller on here that has been telling me about his Summit headers, and by what he says, they're working out pretty well for him... Thanks again for all of the advice, Mark2112! As far as the bolts go, I think that I'm going with the allen-head ARP bolts...

I just thought that one of the ignition modules might give a bit of increase. But, that seems to be money well-spent on something else.

I'm not all that *urged* to lower it. The kit I'm looking at isn't all that hard to install, but the look is already "raked" to the front, with it mostly sitting level. It has Eibach 2" drop shackles now, and I love 'em!

As far as the electric fans go, I'm starting to back away from that one... I've heard good things and bad, and as far as I can tell, that's money well-spent on something else, also.

I wonder if the gutted converter shells are "quietening" it down any? It has a good sound, just not as loud as I want... I might try having the custom Y-Pipe made and bolt it up to the stock manifolds to see how it sounds.

Might just drop the electric fans for a Truxedo bed cover!

BTW, I've got a poll going in the axle forum on what rear gear I should go with... That's something that's going to be changed, also. Right now, it's a 3.08, but it looks to have a 3.55 and a traction "slip" unit taking its place in the near future...



Matt, what all is involved in advancing the timing? Is it a PITA or something simple?

Thanks again for all of the votes, responses, and suggestions! Keep 'em coming!!

Nightrain
 

Last edited by Nightrain; Aug 6, 2006 at 02:20 AM.
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Old Aug 6, 2006 | 10:02 AM
  #14  
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It's not hard at all. WIth the motor off, pull the spout connector; on your 94, it'll be below your cruise control servo. It's a little 2-wire plug with a plastic jumper jammed into the end of it: pull that jumper out when you find it. Loosen the distributor hold down bolt, connect a timing light to the #1 cylinder and start the motor. Let it idle for a few minutes to allow the motor to stabilize. Shoot the timing light at the harmonic balancer (from the passenger side of the water pump). You should see the factory advance set at or close to 10 going off of the pointer that is mounted just over the balancer. Give the distributor a small twist (not sure which direction) and watch the reading on the balancer; 12 degrees (+2 over stock) is usually a pretty good start. When you have it set where you want it, shut the motor down, tighten the dist. bolt, insert the jumper back into the spout connector and take it for a spin.
You can advance it more as long is it doesn't "knock" under heavy load/hard acceleration. If it does, just back the timing down a degree or two, or run higher octane gas.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2006 | 10:47 AM
  #15  
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From: Dixie - Tennessee
Hmm... Sounds like a winner to me.

Doesn't sound too bad at all.

And, that really makes a power difference? I love "power freebies!"

Nightrain
 
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